protecting tweeters
I am using a Nakamichi 620. I t ought to be plenty. My toddler, now 27, was able back then to get the contour control way up, volume up, tuner at a freq. that did not respond with anything but static, and then able to hit the master power. Poof. Or this is what I suspected as that is how I recall finding things when I came home and wifey says baby was bad. That was 25 yrs ago. I do not intend to do any of that but thought there may be some magic box in case I'm drunk.
I am using a Nakamichi 620. I t ought to be plenty. My toddler, now 27, was able back then to get the contour control way up, volume up, tuner at a freq. that did not respond with anything but static, and then able to hit the master power. Poof. Or this is what I suspected as that is how I recall finding things when I came home and wifey says baby was bad. That was 25 yrs ago. I do not intend to do any of that but thought there may be some magic box in case I'm drunk.
I have not used this circuit, but it seems straightforward enough.
http://sound.westhost.com/project53.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project53.htm
Hi Fishdaddy,
Glad to hear you found some tweeters for your NS's.
If you can't keep kiddies away from the equipment the simplest solution may be to use a fuse maybe even a breaker. I read somewhere about using a light bulb at the cost of dynamic compression.
I also agree with Adason. If the amp clips the tweeters take a beating. If you like playing loud you will want a couple hundred watts of headroom about the rated 60W of the NS. The popped tweeters I have actually came out of a relatives NS1000 (my NS tweets are just fine). I have an MX 1000-U amp and have seen 300 watt peaks on some classical sources. Good headroom will go a long way towards protecting the tweeters.
You may want to check cross over circuits as well. Make sure the caps are still in tolerance.
Tim
Glad to hear you found some tweeters for your NS's.
If you can't keep kiddies away from the equipment the simplest solution may be to use a fuse maybe even a breaker. I read somewhere about using a light bulb at the cost of dynamic compression.
I also agree with Adason. If the amp clips the tweeters take a beating. If you like playing loud you will want a couple hundred watts of headroom about the rated 60W of the NS. The popped tweeters I have actually came out of a relatives NS1000 (my NS tweets are just fine). I have an MX 1000-U amp and have seen 300 watt peaks on some classical sources. Good headroom will go a long way towards protecting the tweeters.
You may want to check cross over circuits as well. Make sure the caps are still in tolerance.
Tim
The light bulb trick is an oldie, but a goodie.
Parts Expess has tweeter bulbs, but they look like they are rated much higher than you want.
Parts Expess has tweeter bulbs, but they look like they are rated much higher than you want.
Take this comment with a grain of salt if you wish as the components I'm discussing are 25+ year old and maybe the new stuff is better. I used some Radio Shack "Dynamic Protectors" on a pair of loudspeakers I built in 1986. "Virtually inaudible" , yeah sure. I always thought that the speakers were rather dull on the high end. So when I had to refoam the woofers in 2005 I removed the tweeter protectors. Night and day difference. 19 years of these gizmos messing up my tweeters. 
Here is the inside. It is a light bulb and what appears to be either some kind of resistor or slow blow fuse.
Here is the inside. It is a light bulb and what appears to be either some kind of resistor or slow blow fuse.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The problem is always to "tune" the system. You can use a lamp or a PTC. I asked with one manufacturer and it also said sometimes there is no need when you use professional equipment like limitors or equalizers with a protection for max. output. Some of the compression drivers include one PTC inside also. You can go to a nice website (German) that has a table for chosing one, or use the Eminence (bulb/snap in or limitor bulb) in series or also get a 12V car light bulb (tubular shaped) 1A, 5W or 10W, check the one (w/ the power) that fits best (it will light up at max. power).
http://www.trueaudio.com/st_prot1.htm
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/index_en.htm
http://www.trueaudio.com/st_prot1.htm
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/index_en.htm
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