How do I know what broke so I can fix it

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salmilo1

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Joined 2014
#1
I recently purchased a SURE Electronics tpa3110 and it took 23 or so days to ship (for free) from china. It only cost like $9!!! Love it sounds great but only the left channel works. The right barely puts out any sound and thats at max volume. It is currently powered by 8 AA. The speakers I am using are 4 ohm 8 watt (scavenged from old computer speakers). If I swap the left and right to the opposite terminal blocks the left channel is the one that puts out and does it 😉 with either speaker. I have tried the 3.5mm plug and the soder points with no change. Also I am running it with no vol pot.

Does it have a power supply issue bad caps or is it a cheap crapboard? Or is the IC fried/ messed up?

It is flusterating lol
Ppppppplllllllleeeaassssssseeeeeee HELP
a pre-emptive thank you for everything
 
#3
Very true I am considering stepping up the power input 12v 4.5amp will the tpa3110 still handel the load I am a novice tinkerer and it is for my vespa style chineese scooter I have made all of the circutry my self and added safety lights, cellphone charger ,and 12volt power accessories plug. I can easly add some more 12v 1amp limiters if need be.
 
#5
Display Mode: Single cycle and repeat all switch, it is repeat all as opening*
- Menu Language: English
- Display Size: 1.5"
- Memory Card Type: SD*
- Max Extended Capacity: 8GB
- Audio Formats: MP3 / WMA
- Tuner Bands: FM
- FM Frequency: 85~108MHz
- Other Connections: 1 x USB 2.0 / 1 x SD card slot
- Power Supply: 12V
- Voltage: 7~12V
- The interval between installation hold: 90mm
- Supports external signal switch directly
- Supports Bluetooth 3.0 EDR
- Supports USB / SD card / Bluetooth / FM / Line auto switch
- Built-in MP3 / WMA song decoding chip
- Supports play from USB / SD card / MMC card
- Supports USB / SD card switch PREV / next / fast forward / fast reverse / volume adjustment / play / pause / single cycle / mute / shut off / direct Selection song
- Supports Bluetooth PREV / next / fast forward / fast reverse / volume adjustment / play / pause / single cycle / mute / shut off
- Supports FAT 16 / FAT 32; Supports MP1 layer / MP2 Layer / MP3 Layer
- Supports 32~320Kbps MP3
- Supports power cut memory function: Remember the song and the volume before power cut*
- Working voltage: 12V; Current: 800mA~1A
- Including panel + decoder + remote control + 2-pin plug wire with reverse voltage protection + 3-pin audio plug wire*
- Packing List:
- 1 x MP3 decoding board
- 1 x Remote control (1 x CR2025 battery, included)
 
#7
I asked for some help

Only one person chimed in and they said money grows on trees (buy a nother)
What if I am not currently rich
Or
What if I need / want the experiences
I search and search these fourms and I have seen no one has asked similar questions internet isn't any help
 
#8
I just read your other posts about the amp. Did you have issues with the left channel the very first time you tried it? Were you very sure that things were connected properly?

I feel your frustration. Noobs don't get much attention around here sometimes.. 🙁
 
#12
If you want to troubleshoot your amp, you will need at the very least a schematic and a multimeter. Check the voltages through out your amplifier to see if they match. Put in a 2V sine wave in the input, and see if it actually gets amplified.

If you want experience you really need to do a lot of legwork yourself. Double-so if you're strapped for cash.

The best anyone here can tell you without a schematic and some readings is that it doesn't work, which you already know.
 
#13
Ok cool got several multimeters
I know my phone can download a sign wave genorater but does anyone know if it is @ 2v I have a samsung mega
And the schematic I should be able to use the texas instruments one for a sure electronics tpa3110
Or do I need to find the one for the specific board
 
#17
Without a scope you could check things like output transistors for shorts.
Same for pre output transistors.
Check for shorted electrolytics.
Maybe open circuit resistors.

Fixing amps can be a pain because most work around a feedback loop and one wrong component can feed around the whole loop.

Even replacing blown output transistors can sometimes be fruitless as something further back has gone causing them to blow. Powering up again just blows the new transistors.

One technique I learned was removing the output transistors and feeding back the driver output into the LTP.
There are no output transistors to blow fuses so this means it can be powered up OK.

As a last resort I have seen me remove all transistors and check them out of circuit.
I once got caught out by even this once when all transistors checked ok.
Turned out someone had been in before me and put in a pnp instead of an npn transistor !!!!
 
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#18
salmilo1 said:
Thank you and yeah out of the box only the left pumps
Click to expand...

If so, I'll venture to say that you received a bad unit. Did you try the 3.5mm audio input from a known good source?

That amp will only accept line level (Earphone) input. You can not pump 3 watts into it from another product.. (Unless you attenuate it)

The power supply can be between 10-16 volts D.C. and supply at least 1/2 amp..

A block diagram of the circuit.. (Thanks Parts Express)

http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/tech-diagrams/320-329-parts-express-technical-diagram.pdf
 
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#20
nigelwright7557 said:
Without a scope you could check things like output transistors for shorts.
Same for pre output transistors.
Check for shorted electrolytics.
Maybe open circuit resistors.

Fixing amps can be a pain because most work around a feedback loop and one wrong component can feed around the whole loop.

Even replacing blown output transistors can sometimes be fruitless as something further back has gone causing them to blow. Powering up again just blows the new transistors.

One technique I learned was removing the output transistors and feeding back the driver output into the LTP.
There are no output transistors to blow fuses so this means it can be powered up OK.

As a last resort I have seen me remove all transistors and check them out of circuit.
I once got caught out by even this once when all transistors checked ok.
Turned out someone had been in before me and put in a pnp instead of an npn transistor !!!!
Click to expand...
I got a wild hair and found a 16volt 2.6amp wall charger or that is what it measures now after several years of sitting in the garage it was a 12v 1.2amp but it didn't harm the board and didnt fix the left side like I hoaped so it wasn't a power supply issue
But I was wondering if I could put it on a 12v 4.5 amp or is that way to high for the amps I know most small dc electronic will pull what they need but some will fry if supplied by tooooooo much
 
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