The Fostex is for those with small amps 2-4w or so, often SETs, i recommend 10w minimum for the appropriate MAs. 30 watts should be lots.
What speakes do you have?
dave
> This could damage some power amplifiers.
Note " low level "
If afraid, put a light bulb in series with the mains.
Note " low level "
If afraid, put a light bulb in series with the mains.
Certainly better than these [Class D?] HT receivers and their stripped down HIFI variants. Wouldn't surprise me if I could arc weld with mine as 'flash' shorts don't trip its protection.
Good to know 'they' are designing horns assuming my SWAG of Qo [~Qts'] is around 0.4, which by happy happenstance [or as part of the pioneer's design philosophy when developing the first HE amp-speaker system?] is a T/S max flat alignment.
GM
Correct, you're trading system efficiency for increased usable BW.
Build in more efficiency with a bigger, wider BW horn, allowing the driver to 'be all it can be' 😉.
'BIB' rules! 🙂 :Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks?
GM
Yeah, at the time was too tired to think of that or that this thread is principally about high output impedance tube amps where this is one of several acceptable ways to measure it.
GM
Hi there,
for calculating the output impedance of your power amp you need to measure the output voltage with two different resistors.
I have the simple math on my web site
se amp lab page
Cheers
KlausB
for calculating the output impedance of your power amp you need to measure the output voltage with two different resistors.
I have the simple math on my web site
se amp lab page
Cheers
KlausB
Bernie put them into Victor and they were superb.
This is his 1st Victor build with FE166eSReN. The next one had FF165wKeN with a visualization.
And before they were finished (w FF165wKeN — the amps driving them measure 3.9w at clipping):
dave
This is his 1st Victor build with FE166eSReN. The next one had FF165wKeN with a visualization.
And before they were finished (w FF165wKeN — the amps driving them measure 3.9w at clipping):
dave
Oh, okay, sure. My amp is a harman/kardon A-401 integrated, rated at 20WPC. It's supposed to be like a 330C without the tuner. My original speakers were the Original Large Advents. I felt like my amp just wasn't getting the job done. I've been told it was marginally adequate, but I am tired of marginal!
Following the Advents, I bought Paradigm 3SE Minis. They sound good, but are like laser beams.
I've been told "watts are cheap! get a bigger amp!" or "just recap the Advents and you'll be fine" or "just listen to the Minis off-axis and you'll be fine". Regardless, I would really like to try a FR BLH FHXL.
Following the Advents, I bought Paradigm 3SE Minis. They sound good, but are like laser beams.
I've been told "watts are cheap! get a bigger amp!" or "just recap the Advents and you'll be fine" or "just listen to the Minis off-axis and you'll be fine". Regardless, I would really like to try a FR BLH FHXL.
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A nice little amp. Should be more than capable of driving the less sensitive Mark Audios (A7.w/A7ms/Pluvia 7) or Fostex (FF105wk is smoother than FF125wk) to typically satisfying levels in most rooms. How big is your room? The larger A10.3/10p, A11ms or Pluvia 7 are more efficient (the A10p about 90dB) and FF165wk about 91.5 dB.
I sold hundres of pairs of Advents, both these FHs smoke Advents from say 70 Hz up, and FHXL with appropriate driver will go at least as low and with the horn loading, perhaps even move as much air.
dave
OK, poor man's AR3a, good value, sounded pretty good with 110 W on tap for sufficient dynamic headroom, so unless you played yours at elevator music levels the amp was living on its limiter at typical young folk's getogethers, i.e., congested, flat [dull], etc..
Right, for beaming drivers, which BTW most 'FR' do, over toeing them [have them cross somewhere in front of the 'sweet spot'] is a popular way. FWIW I've had good luck assuming a three person sofa [~100"], pointing the left speaker at the right seat and vice versa.
Search the net and you'll find the big Advent is still a popular speaker and if abused as much as you've implied, then may need more than caps, such as new tweeters, which is the driver [not] making much of the 'effortless' and all of the 'spaciousness' you're lacking.
GM
Right, for beaming drivers, which BTW most 'FR' do, over toeing them [have them cross somewhere in front of the 'sweet spot'] is a popular way. FWIW I've had good luck assuming a three person sofa [~100"], pointing the left speaker at the right seat and vice versa.
Search the net and you'll find the big Advent is still a popular speaker and if abused as much as you've implied, then may need more than caps, such as new tweeters, which is the driver [not] making much of the 'effortless' and all of the 'spaciousness' you're lacking.
GM
The typical SS amps of the day were notorious for taking out tweeters. When someone came in you could tell right away as the ferro-fluid sprayed all ove rthe back of the paper cone created a noticablw stain. We had a changeover to freah tweeters down to less than 15 min/pr (both usually went).
dave
Interesting! I really appreciate all the help from everyone!
@planet10 -- in post #35 you said
Room size is 13 ft by 15 ft.
@planet10 -- in post #35 you said
Room size is 13 ft by 15 ft.
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