So it's 5" woofer? Which one? If it's smaller woofer - crossing it higher should be no problem and then XT25 can shine here... Assuming woofer breakups, distortions, FR in upper regions are all ok...
Actually crossing XT25 with smaller woofers/mids is often the real solution for this tweeter. In 3-way systems that is, but i assume you expect no bass from that woofer anyway
Actually crossing XT25 with smaller woofers/mids is often the real solution for this tweeter. In 3-way systems that is, but i assume you expect no bass from that woofer anyway
I should probably not join this thread, but here goes.
With my first highend speaker build, on hand I had both the Accuton ceramic tweeter, and the Accuton diamond tweeter. I wanted to see if they where that different.
Initial testing and listening didn't show much of a difference. However, once I started trying the Duelund CAST PIO capacitors, the difference was HUGE. So much so that I wouldn't build a client a speaker with anything less than the diamond.
Maybe the two tweeters under question sound similar because the crossover components are what he's listening to.
With my first highend speaker build, on hand I had both the Accuton ceramic tweeter, and the Accuton diamond tweeter. I wanted to see if they where that different.
Initial testing and listening didn't show much of a difference. However, once I started trying the Duelund CAST PIO capacitors, the difference was HUGE. So much so that I wouldn't build a client a speaker with anything less than the diamond.
Maybe the two tweeters under question sound similar because the crossover components are what he's listening to.
It's funny you mention that.
I didn't think there was any difference in caps, but when testing the Seas tweeters I had two 4.7 uF caps on the Seas tweeters (if I remember correctly which tweeters they were). One cap was Dayton and one cap was an old "Zetag" cap, possibly made by Solen, but I'm not sure. I thought I could hear the difference right away. But then again one time I thought I could hear the difference in speaker wire.
The woofer I'm using is a Wavecor WG152BD02, like the one in Zaph's blog, but 8 ohm: zaph|audio
I also have the Wavecor tweeter in the blog.
Interesting side-note: I wish I bought more expensive drivers.
Building speakers is so time consuming that unless you build with the best quality drivers, you kind of feel like you're wasting your time.
Jimmy, you should read:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/241286-my-first-wave-guide-speaker-lots-pics.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/241286-my-first-wave-guide-speaker-lots-pics.html
I fully agree with Cousin Billy here as i had similar experience. Actually right now i'm comparing two capacitors - Jantzen Audio Silver-Z and Mundorf Supreme in left/right speaker for easy comparison. And even at this level of price/quality find them sounding different to the point you'd think frequency response is different. The Supreme is more transparent\detailed to my ears.
P.S. Funny though - as for Duelund, at least VSF (maybe PIO are better) i must agree with Troels Gravesen (quote): "These caps are smooth on the ear but do not deliver the resolution of high-res caps". But at this level it's matter of taste i guess
P.S. Funny though - as for Duelund, at least VSF (maybe PIO are better) i must agree with Troels Gravesen (quote): "These caps are smooth on the ear but do not deliver the resolution of high-res caps". But at this level it's matter of taste i guess
Last edited:
I once spent a whole page explaining to spinmonster why I didn't want a waveguide and if I did want a waveguide that it would be the complete inverse/opposite of the waveguide he was a fan of.
I have to just wait until my 4-channel amp is done or buy a 4-channel amp.
I'm not going passive, it's too useless and irritating. You can't do anything with the FR of a driver anyway other than very, very basic things.
Anytime you want to move the speaker or change something you have a take the speaker apart.
Then you have a chump of crap hidden somewhere in your speaker.
I'm just not a fan of passive cross-overs because I don't have to be.
Not crazy about waveguides either. I like to have maximum dispersion, that is why I'm considering the Seas, but I don't see a "phase shield" in the grill.
Maybe only the metal TBFD/G has the phase shield in the grill I don't know. Any one know?
Last edited:
Bit of a rant there, Jimmy! 😀
You are not imagining that the XT25 ring radiator sounds cleaner than a soft dome. It's measurable in the phase response, with a 3kHz crossover and a 6" bass here, which is more linear, and hence has less stored energy, group delay and resonance.
It's because the centre of the spherical soft dome is effectively pinned, so doesn't flap around uncontrollably. 😎
You are not imagining that the XT25 ring radiator sounds cleaner than a soft dome. It's measurable in the phase response, with a 3kHz crossover and a 6" bass here, which is more linear, and hence has less stored energy, group delay and resonance.
It's because the centre of the spherical soft dome is effectively pinned, so doesn't flap around uncontrollably. 😎
Attachments
- Status
- Not open for further replies.