on usual circuit board for non-surface-mount components?
I saw some Vishay resistors and capacitors with good specs, but they are surface mount components.
I saw some Vishay resistors and capacitors with good specs, but they are surface mount components.
You can use some kind of adapter board, although i've mostly seen those for devices which has more than 2 pins. If you are very handy i guess you could solder some wires(for example, solid core copper, 0.5-0.7mm) into the holes going towards the middle, flat against the PCB, tinning them along their length. Then quickly solder your SMD component, tack soldering one end at first while pressing down, and then soldering the other end before going back to the first one and making a proper joint.
Might work for a component or two, but i wouldn't want to do it on every resistor in a project, i'd look for a suitable TH replacement or an SMD version of the PCB.
Might work for a component or two, but i wouldn't want to do it on every resistor in a project, i'd look for a suitable TH replacement or an SMD version of the PCB.
Depending on what kind of through-hole parts you are talking about and how the PWB was laid out, you may find that larger SMT parts (like the 1206 size, or occasionally 0805) can span the gap between pads. Though this is electrically valid it looks pretty amateurish at best.
You can rig connections with small pieces of AWG30 solid wire (it used to be sold as "wire wrap wire"). However, as already noted, you'll lose patience after 3 or 4 parts.
Dale
You can rig connections with small pieces of AWG30 solid wire (it used to be sold as "wire wrap wire"). However, as already noted, you'll lose patience after 3 or 4 parts.
Dale
Paste the smp at the place u want it but with no traces below.
Solder a bare wire at the hole and cut it little lengthier than to reach the sm component and bend the end. Hold the wire on the laminate and solder its other end to the smd.
Gajanan Phadte
Solder a bare wire at the hole and cut it little lengthier than to reach the sm component and bend the end. Hold the wire on the laminate and solder its other end to the smd.
Gajanan Phadte
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I have used SMT for a few amplifiers and I found film SMD are not suitable for DIY - they 'fry' really easily. And I found that npo ceramic sounds just as good 🙂
If you have to span other traces, an easy solution is to 'tombstone' the SMD onto one pad, then run a jumper of bus wire from the other pad to the top of the tombstoned SMD chip. In case that's not clear, tombstoning is when an SMD stands vertically, perpendicular to the plane of the PCB, and is thus connected to only one pad.
It's still a tedious method, but it's not so awful either, and it's easy to do without cooking the part, jiggling it around to fit where it does not want to be.
It's still a tedious method, but it's not so awful either, and it's easy to do without cooking the part, jiggling it around to fit where it does not want to be.
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