Greetings. I’ve installed a Bash 300 plate amp in my Totem lightening sub. I plan to drive it with a pair of speaker wires. My question is: what type of speaker wire is best suited for this application and what gauge? The run will be about 6’ from the amp.
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
If using the 10% voltage drop limit, then 25 ga, so 16 ga lamp cord is way overkill, yet still a little smaller than MAACO's minimum recommendation.
GM
GM
OK I'm going to think out loud for a moment.
My first thought was.. if the Bash amp is in the sub how is it you need 6ft of speaker cable to reach the driver?
Then I thought... Oh... you're talking about driving the plate amp with speaker cables from your receiver/amp. So you don't have a line level sub out to use? If that is the case then you don't care about current capacity in this wire at all you just need the voltage signal so even some tiny 18-22ag wire will work.
My first thought was.. if the Bash amp is in the sub how is it you need 6ft of speaker cable to reach the driver?
Then I thought... Oh... you're talking about driving the plate amp with speaker cables from your receiver/amp. So you don't have a line level sub out to use? If that is the case then you don't care about current capacity in this wire at all you just need the voltage signal so even some tiny 18-22ag wire will work.
Yeah, at first I scratched my head about this, but then with a name like Totem thought that maybe it was a big, tall sub and/or like I've done and kept the amp with the rest of the electronics for one reason or another, but now that I've looked it up it's just another 'shoe-box' sub, so you're right and my bad for not following through. 🙁
GM
GM
I'm sorry I didn't make it more clear, but, yes, the Lightning is a shoe-box sub and I'm driving it with my Bryston amp. I'm currently using 2 flat, Nordost cables in 18 gauge, with banana connectors at each end. My speaker cables are terminated with spades.
I've just recently lucked out on a pair of Siltech speaker cables, for my speakers, with banana connectors. Now I have a problem because my amp terminals will not provide for two pair of bananas. Given the problem, I thought this might be a good time to upgrade the sub cables; but, it sounds like what I have is already nearly ideal - is this correct?
My problem - do I buy spade to banana adapters (some are half the price of the 2 flats), or, have the ends changed on the 2 flats or upgrade to something better?
Any and all advice appreciated.
Thanks,
John
I've just recently lucked out on a pair of Siltech speaker cables, for my speakers, with banana connectors. Now I have a problem because my amp terminals will not provide for two pair of bananas. Given the problem, I thought this might be a good time to upgrade the sub cables; but, it sounds like what I have is already nearly ideal - is this correct?
My problem - do I buy spade to banana adapters (some are half the price of the 2 flats), or, have the ends changed on the 2 flats or upgrade to something better?
Any and all advice appreciated.
Thanks,
John
IME [professional & DIY] is replace with cold weld [proper crimping] ring tongue connectors mounted with the appropriate bolt/screw, flat, lock washers torqued to spec.
IME/IMNSHO, bananas should never be used in any serious long term audio app, especially high power ones.
Ditto spades as they spread out if not properly torqued, losing tension, structural integrity.
Proper crimping is generally considered to be too expensive for the casual DIYer though, so can be silver [bearing] soldered after crimping if using connectors that are tinned, plated for it [all the decent quality ones I've used from Home Depot, Lowe's or similar hardware, automotive parts, etc., stores, but I've historically used a very high wattage iron, so YMMV].
GM
IME/IMNSHO, bananas should never be used in any serious long term audio app, especially high power ones.
Ditto spades as they spread out if not properly torqued, losing tension, structural integrity.
Proper crimping is generally considered to be too expensive for the casual DIYer though, so can be silver [bearing] soldered after crimping if using connectors that are tinned, plated for it [all the decent quality ones I've used from Home Depot, Lowe's or similar hardware, automotive parts, etc., stores, but I've historically used a very high wattage iron, so YMMV].
GM
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