With all respect, if I knew what I wanted I would not need help.
Here's a basic general idea ... Something like these. However it seems like the top and bottom are not necessarily needing to have much, since the vertical dispersion is limited anyway. And I have no clue if i should build a lens to coincide with the factory one.
Here's a basic general idea ... Something like these. However it seems like the top and bottom are not necessarily needing to have much, since the vertical dispersion is limited anyway. And I have no clue if i should build a lens to coincide with the factory one.
If all I really need is side wings, can anyone teach me how to figure the proper width for 1900 hz?
Also I need to know the proper size of rollovers. With this information, I assume I'd be set up ....
Also I need to know the proper size of rollovers. With this information, I assume I'd be set up ....
I can very quickly draw up something like that, but I'm still not clear if the front black part (the lens you mention) is removable or we need to try and integrate with it? You need to be specific about what you want, then someone can create a 3D model and you can have it produced. A good start would probably be getting a set of digital callipers because a ruler is not precise enough.
1900hz half wavelength is ~9cm so your waveguide should be at least 9cm wide at the mouth. A good rollover is a circular shape that is tangent with the angle it needs to pick up. Some waveguides use non-circular shapes and this affects the dispersion pattern but it's a good starting point.
1900hz half wavelength is ~9cm so your waveguide should be at least 9cm wide at the mouth. A good rollover is a circular shape that is tangent with the angle it needs to pick up. Some waveguides use non-circular shapes and this affects the dispersion pattern but it's a good starting point.
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Same experience over here, lovely tweeters. I have two pairs of these and they are very good when properly used but they can sound absolutely awfull when crossed too low, distortion goes sky rocket high below 2500Hz, even with a large waveguide attached I would not use them that low.
Have you measured them on various axes? They allready have a waveguide and measure pretty constant in directivity from 3000Hz on up.
Try mountng them on a wide baffle, that give some boost at the lower end. Also countersunking them in felt helps a bit.
Okay ... this is good info I needed.
I'll start by explaining the factory flange and lens set up...
I do not see how it comes apart. However it SEEMS like the front aluminum lens probably secures the diaphragm in place.
I had assumed it would stay in place, and the angle shown in purple here would be continued for the horn mouth. Unless it's not a good angle for that. I will get the angle measured today.
I wasn't sure just where the waveguide would attach, relative to the face. Meaning on the blue line, or the red line.
As far as the faceplate. Unless the front aluminum lens is not integral in holding the diaphragm on, I can't see how it can be in the way.
But if needed I can trim the faceplate sides away, and also trim the plastic to allow something different than I must be picturing.
If the front can not be easily removed then you'll need to pick up on that angle you highlighted in purple.
Carful with any tools you put near it, remembering strongly magnetic!! 🧲
Carful with any tools you put near it, remembering strongly magnetic!! 🧲
Ah hah! Sjef has hands on experience. Thank you for sharing.
I will stick with a 2300 ish hz xover frequency then. Just change midrange drivers that are comfortable playing to that.
I planned on crossing to my 12" woofers at 300 hz. I shouldn't have baffle step issues with a midrange on a wider baffle. So I guess I could go up to about 14" wide.
I'm a lifelong musician. I find the Power Rings sound more like real instruments to my ears. Cymbals are eerily lifelike.
I will stick with a 2300 ish hz xover frequency then. Just change midrange drivers that are comfortable playing to that.
I planned on crossing to my 12" woofers at 300 hz. I shouldn't have baffle step issues with a midrange on a wider baffle. So I guess I could go up to about 14" wide.
I'm a lifelong musician. I find the Power Rings sound more like real instruments to my ears. Cymbals are eerily lifelike.
you can remove the plastic completely it is only there for mounting and for sealing the top and the bottom but that can be done with a piece of wood or other material as well. The tweeter is build out of one piece of metal tube (actually a square profile with roundovers) with cutouts on the front. There is no face panel, it's an integral part of the tube. The diaphragme is actually glued to the front. The (alnico I thought) magnet is inside, the whole tube is part of the magnet system.
But .... 1/4" hardboard is cheap. I simply must try some wings at the purple angle. Curiousity is hunting this cat, lol.
I figured I'd find measurements on the web somewhere, as old as the driver is. But not.
I just haven't had the time to measure my own pair.
I think what you need is a way to flush mount them. Have a look if there are any 'maker spaces' within traveling distance of you. These places should have 3d printers and possibly someone willing to do simple CAD for you in exhange for a reasonable donation to help kids learn engineering.
Where are you in the US, traveling distance?
Where are you in the US, traveling distance?
Lost me ... flush mount?
You mean with only the metal lens showing from behind the wood of the cabinet?
You mean with only the metal lens showing from behind the wood of the cabinet?
Well yes, but due to the shape that would leave them poking out on the top and bottom or inset on the left and right sides. You need a kind of interface adaptor, no? You want to join them as smoothly as possible to the front baffle to avoid reflections / diffraction.
Like I said, a friendly maker space and a few beer tokens are your friend. I know.some people in this field, maybe I can suggest a place.
Like I said, a friendly maker space and a few beer tokens are your friend. I know.some people in this field, maybe I can suggest a place.
Any chance you could provide a simple drawing?
IF I made a trial waveguide, it would connect to the baffle at the yellow lines. This makes a seamless transition.
If I extended the sides, and/or the top and bottom, then those extended edges would meet flush at the baffle face.
What are you trying to say other than this?
IF I made a trial waveguide, it would connect to the baffle at the yellow lines. This makes a seamless transition.
If I extended the sides, and/or the top and bottom, then those extended edges would meet flush at the baffle face.
What are you trying to say other than this?
To make only the inside part of the yellow to show through the face of the baffle is simple. After cutting the exact size rectangle, you simply chamfer the backside with a roundover bit that matches the AMTs roundover. Slides to the front and stops. Secure it there.
Then only this shows through the baffle...
Then only this shows through the baffle...
Right, that's essentially what I'm assuming you want to do with a somewhat smoother transition between the angled part and the baffle outside the yellow rectangle you drew.
Have you tried them flush mounted from the back of a baffle like you just described?
Have you tried them flush mounted from the back of a baffle like you just described?
I have only flush mounted the flanges. Not the entire unit. Other than the Beyma lens or Joseph Crowe approach, these two are the only ways I can imagine flush mounting them...
I couldn't draw it very well, but the example on the right is open on the top, back to the AMTs top edge. So a "V" shape cut out on top of the speaker.
I couldn't draw it very well, but the example on the right is open on the top, back to the AMTs top edge. So a "V" shape cut out on top of the speaker.
I had apparently assumed incorrectly that a Joseph Crowe style horn would allow me to cross the AMT even lower. And I had assumed it would semi "horn load" the AMT. Making it more efficient.
Again wrong ...
So upon getting great advice from Sjef, I am now looking at mounting them on a wide baffle. But in a smooth manner, and much, much prettier.
I just need to know which way in my crude drawing would be a better option. May need to play with some cardboard mock ups.
Here's a super tweeter that I have flush mounted under the wood. So doing that is not an issue...
Again wrong ...
So upon getting great advice from Sjef, I am now looking at mounting them on a wide baffle. But in a smooth manner, and much, much prettier.
I just need to know which way in my crude drawing would be a better option. May need to play with some cardboard mock ups.
Here's a super tweeter that I have flush mounted under the wood. So doing that is not an issue...