My long tapped horns are only 105dB/W corner loaded.
Work fine for hifi.
Would need lots of power or lots of them at bigger venues.
They don't sound that great above 60Hz. It's there and defined but not that punchy.
The Lab12 TH sub I made recently sees about 108dB.
I had 118dB or a bit more out of it on test.
55Hz and up I find the SH50 style cabs with twin 12" (part horn listed mostly reflex), work really well with punchy kick and nicely defined bass lines.
I'm really happy with the combination.
Work fine for hifi.
Would need lots of power or lots of them at bigger venues.
They don't sound that great above 60Hz. It's there and defined but not that punchy.
The Lab12 TH sub I made recently sees about 108dB.
I had 118dB or a bit more out of it on test.
55Hz and up I find the SH50 style cabs with twin 12" (part horn listed mostly reflex), work really well with punchy kick and nicely defined bass lines.
I'm really happy with the combination.
BANDPASS (BPH, FLH, TH, BP6S, BP6P, BP4) RULES!!!
https://data-bass.com/#/systems?sort=100Hz:1,mfr:-1,name:-1&activetab=max_output&_k=0kg6is
https://data-bass.com/#/systems?sort=100Hz:1,mfr:-1,name:-1&activetab=max_output&_k=0kg6is
That same document was addressed in another recent thread.
I'm cheap labor, got many drivers, lots of space, and built a BP4 (FLH with a straight port). Bandpass Rule!
I'm cheap labor, got many drivers, lots of space, and built a BP4 (FLH with a straight port). Bandpass Rule!
@BP1Fanatic: The middle sub drivers are way too close together if they have a pole core bore and fighting against each other, that means you have effectively halved the physical distance between them. And since the distance between them looks like it's just a tad more as the thickness of the boards (looks like 5cm at best), that would be equal to have the pole core bore around ~2-3 cm from a enclosure wall. That doesn't matter much on low level but you wouldn't have used 4 isobaric pairs if you wanted low level. With higher level the cooling is a lot worse and the inner drivers having no air exchange anyway, it's going to be a lot worse. But that's not all, with the power compression on these drivers starting a lot earlier than the outer ones (because, you know, cooling), the isobaric principle doesn't work very well anymore, the heat increase the resistance of the VCs, effectively shifting to a higher Qts and distortion increases a lot sooner than needed.
It's not very difficult to fix that. It looks like you have a few cm between the subwoofer and the back of the car. If you extend the enclosure just by the thickness of the wall and mount one side of the drivers with a offset, then that very small offset will already help immensely. It's not perfect but it gives you more headroom and it lets the inner drivers live a lot longer.
It would also reduce the vibrations if you'd add a short 2x4 between the bottom and the top ("ground to ceiling) of the enclosure in the middle of the sub, since that's by far the biggest unsupported surface.
@IamJF: Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread.
It's not very difficult to fix that. It looks like you have a few cm between the subwoofer and the back of the car. If you extend the enclosure just by the thickness of the wall and mount one side of the drivers with a offset, then that very small offset will already help immensely. It's not perfect but it gives you more headroom and it lets the inner drivers live a lot longer.
It would also reduce the vibrations if you'd add a short 2x4 between the bottom and the top ("ground to ceiling) of the enclosure in the middle of the sub, since that's by far the biggest unsupported surface.
@IamJF: Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread.
I see what you mean. If they blow, then they were only $30 a piece.
That's another thing I hate about sealed enclosures, no venting of the voicecoil.
I always design my BP4's with the speaker basket in the vented section. Obviously, with an isobaric setup, that's not possible for all the drivers.
That's another thing I hate about sealed enclosures, no venting of the voicecoil.
I always design my BP4's with the speaker basket in the vented section. Obviously, with an isobaric setup, that's not possible for all the drivers.
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Curious how FLH transient response is affected by only increasing mouth surface area alone ie. stacking cabs. If it doesn't supposedly do much if anything to increase gain, you'd think it wouldn't hurt anything else.
I only tried adding more FLH enclosures without extra tuning. The LF got louder but also sounded fuller towards the bottom with more extension.
I only tried adding more FLH enclosures without extra tuning. The LF got louder but also sounded fuller towards the bottom with more extension.
Four 2pi cabs = one 0.5pi cab.
Not only do you get 0.5pi in a car, but you get transfer function (cabin gain) too.
I forgot to mention, I'm not using the full power of the amplifier. The series parallel parallel wiring is 2 ohm where the amp is 1 ohm stable.
Not only do you get 0.5pi in a car, but you get transfer function (cabin gain) too.
I forgot to mention, I'm not using the full power of the amplifier. The series parallel parallel wiring is 2 ohm where the amp is 1 ohm stable.
here are some sims and design thread for horn loaded sub. Maybe you find something interesting.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...rol-bc-subwoofer-bc218-2-design.413237/page-3
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...rol-bc-subwoofer-bc218-2-design.413237/page-3