I built a pair of Econowaves four years ago with Dayton Audio D250P-8 1" Polyimide CDs bolted to Dayton Audio H6512 6-1/2" x 12" waveguides, using the Large Advent woofers in LA cabinets. I use the Zilch-designed XO. I like 'em! These days most of my listening is with a pair of Omega alnico speakers, but I've always wanted to "scale up" the Econowaves. I like horns for their dynamic impact, two-ways for their simple crossovers, and high sensitivity (95dB+) because I like SET amps.
How about the FaitalPRO LTH142 1.4" 60 x 50 Elliptical Tractrix Horn with . . . ? Lots of blanks to be filled in!
How about the FaitalPRO LTH142 1.4" 60 x 50 Elliptical Tractrix Horn with . . . ? Lots of blanks to be filled in!
Maybe? I was curious about trying out an elliptical tractrix design. Big mistake? I would prefer constant directivity with decent coverage, whatever that means in practice. But your comment gives me pause.
Nice specs on the 15NTLW3500, another one to keep in mind. Thanks.
Nice specs on the 15NTLW3500, another one to keep in mind. Thanks.
The more narrow you try to go, the harder it is to get value when you consider the size. The tradeoff is a higher crossover frequency.
My vote is to find a horn, like XT1464, HF950, or LTH142,
and mate it with 12" driver.
15" is too big.
Don't try to get away without a sub.
Get a 1.4" CD than can do xover at or below 700Hz, where a 12" remains pistonic, and will have patttern matching working OK with the above (or similar) horns.
It'll ROCK !
and mate it with 12" driver.
15" is too big.
Don't try to get away without a sub.
Get a 1.4" CD than can do xover at or below 700Hz, where a 12" remains pistonic, and will have patttern matching working OK with the above (or similar) horns.
It'll ROCK !
If you go with a 15" you might get away without a sub. 12 or 15" is a matter of opinion. A 15" @ 900-1000hz or so will throw a 90 degree horizontal. Great match to a 90/40 horn.
Aren't 60/50 horn meant more for longer throw situations? I would not think they'd be useful in a typical stereo set-up at home. Toe-in options might be limited by the angle and placement would be restrictive. You'll want to give yourself some latitude when it comes to horns systems to get the best out of them.
Aren't 60/50 horn meant more for longer throw situations? I would not think they'd be useful in a typical stereo set-up at home. Toe-in options might be limited by the angle and placement would be restrictive. You'll want to give yourself some latitude when it comes to horns systems to get the best out of them.
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I would keep the speaker, and the waveguide, and simply replace the compression driver with the one that was designed for that waveguide:
For $200, can anything beat Pyle PH612 + JBL 2408H-1?
For $200, can anything beat Pyle PH612 + JBL 2408H-1?
The 22408H-1 looks very small though, how low can it go? Would a midrange be needed? (Not a bad thing imo)
Patrick Bateman's idea of just replacing my current CD with a "better" one appeals to my inner tightwad, though my initial impulse was to build bigger and better. But the 2408H-1 is no longer available new, isn't it? I searched PE, Madisound, Simply Speaker and lazily googled around and found nothing.
My primary speakers are single-driver alnico "full" rangers, so a 2-way feels like an extravagance, but I have no religious objection to 3-ways. 😀 I don't use subwoofers with my Econowave Advents or my Omegas, though I bought plans for a tapped subwoofer from John Inslow 18 months ago. I'm afraid to build one because I reckon there will be a serious integration problem (massive low peak and relatively weak sub-bass). I want well-integrated bass, not movie explosions. I value what I guess is a seamless purity and unity, but I could be full of it. All that said, I am curious how a tapped subwoofer might sound, so I'll probably build one eventually.
I would have probably gone for a pair of Altec coax's a long time ago, but I've heard them in a room near my room's size (big, but not big enough) and they weren't at their best, I believe. I heard a pair of modded A7's (if my memory serves) in SP's Joe Robert's living room years ago and they sounded great--bigger room, or at least at a greater distance from the drivers to the listening position.
Sorry for the thread drift, but I just drank some potent coffee.
My primary speakers are single-driver alnico "full" rangers, so a 2-way feels like an extravagance, but I have no religious objection to 3-ways. 😀 I don't use subwoofers with my Econowave Advents or my Omegas, though I bought plans for a tapped subwoofer from John Inslow 18 months ago. I'm afraid to build one because I reckon there will be a serious integration problem (massive low peak and relatively weak sub-bass). I want well-integrated bass, not movie explosions. I value what I guess is a seamless purity and unity, but I could be full of it. All that said, I am curious how a tapped subwoofer might sound, so I'll probably build one eventually.
I would have probably gone for a pair of Altec coax's a long time ago, but I've heard them in a room near my room's size (big, but not big enough) and they weren't at their best, I believe. I heard a pair of modded A7's (if my memory serves) in SP's Joe Robert's living room years ago and they sounded great--bigger room, or at least at a greater distance from the drivers to the listening position.
Sorry for the thread drift, but I just drank some potent coffee.
The h2 is available and similar construction Original JBL 2408H-2 Speaker Horn Driver Factory Part 5020337X - Speaker Exchange
I thought that the H2 was a significantly different driver. Also from Speaker Exchange, comparing the 2408H with the H1 (so not the H2, thus all bets are still off):
"The 2408H-1 has a different phase plug as compared to the 2408H driver. It has a square phasing plug and does not have the collar that causes the screw on connector to be approx .25″ shorter than the 2408H."
"The 2408H-1 has a different phase plug as compared to the 2408H driver. It has a square phasing plug and does not have the collar that causes the screw on connector to be approx .25″ shorter than the 2408H."
I did not buy or test it, but the for a neo ring radiator ( i believe) from a reputable vendor, the price is very nice, and probably it matches pretty good to the pyle jbl clone. A waveguide/ cd driver combo is less than $100 including shipping and taxes. It is used on the prx800 series, a mid tier PA, and for the look of the pic, the waveguide seems to be pretty similar to the Pyle. Seems this cd is used in many current jbl products, availability should be plenty for a while. I wish someone would have measure. Crossover point on the prx812 is 1800 Hz.
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You've already mentioned one possible solution, the Unity or its iteration, the Synergy. These aren't cheap but they are phenomenal. My only experience with a horn, other than very brief listens to others' systems, is a modded Yorkville Unity U15. Don't underestimate the value of a near-perfect virtual point source -- something that very few speakers can achieve, due to crossover and frequency limitations of the various drivers.
Since it's already been mentioned, I've had no issues with the Yorkville's 60 degree response in a typical suburban living room, and I listen quite close. Standard toed in and sit at apex of triangle. "Big headphones" effect.
Since it's already been mentioned, I've had no issues with the Yorkville's 60 degree response in a typical suburban living room, and I listen quite close. Standard toed in and sit at apex of triangle. "Big headphones" effect.