I almost started building my Badgers tonight. I've got to get some amps into chassis. I'm getting like Terry with a cupboard full of amps with no chassis.
Actually, I need to choose between two amps. the honey badger or a class D with Hypex modules (180W). How do they compare ?
Then I will have to choose the speakers. DIY or not DIY... If I go the DIY route, which kit or model is the best suited ? If I go the commercial route, it will be Focal or Polk Audio speakers and I still don't know which model to take..
Focal or Polk because they are the only 2 "good" brands available around here.
This will be my summer vacation project so it gives me a few months before ordering. If this helps, I have a background in electronic design and currently computer engineer.
Then I will have to choose the speakers. DIY or not DIY... If I go the DIY route, which kit or model is the best suited ? If I go the commercial route, it will be Focal or Polk Audio speakers and I still don't know which model to take..
Focal or Polk because they are the only 2 "good" brands available around here.
This will be my summer vacation project so it gives me a few months before ordering. If this helps, I have a background in electronic design and currently computer engineer.
I'm still listening to that Rotel I never really liked with a bunch of amps that sound better in pieces though. I've got to finish one soon but the milling machine gets really boring.
Actually, I need to choose between two amps. the honey badger or a class D with Hypex modules (180W). How do they compare ?
Then I will have to choose the speakers. DIY or not DIY... If I go the DIY route, which kit or model is the best suited ? If I go the commercial route, it will be Focal or Polk Audio speakers and I still don't know which model to take..
Focal or Polk because they are the only 2 "good" brands available around here.
This will be my summer vacation project so it gives me a few months before ordering. If this helps, I have a background in electronic design and currently computer engineer.
It's not fun to build a module.
You have electronic design background, you should able to simulate the schematic and choose what you need.
Bad speakers ? or some other fault ? My 2 pair badger prototypes survived shorts ..
drunken "dysfunctional" abuse.
My other 4 pair NJW 0281/0302 "prebadger" ... I hooked 2 pair speakers and
partied all day (40C tennessee hot ! ) - no magic smoke ??
They had the huge Genesis stealth heatsinks .....
OS
can't do a post mortem as the amp is not with me, i just been told...😱
Actually, I need to choose between two amps. the honey badger or a class D with Hypex modules (180W). How do they compare ?
I don't know the reliability of a hypex - but it is no fun (module's are not really diy).
Bruno's class D tech is quite impressive , they might sound really good.
I do know the LIN (badger/wolverine) reliability and sound. It is the analog
equivalent to the HYPEX - "transparent" ... might have a little lower THD , as well.
(below) - I've used the Badger (wolverine) for 32 hours of "burn-in" on
4 big output stages - very reliable indeed. Any power supply between 20V -
80V will run it perfectly - cool , quiet , precision.
The circuit is the ideal first project with the best "bang for the buck".
PS - best documented ,too ... (Doug Self and Cordell's books).
Only circuit that I will rate "TEST DOG" status ! 😀
OS
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can't do a post mortem as the amp is not with me, i just been told...😱
If I were to venture a guess it would be that they ran it on too low ohms at high power. Did you install the latching diodes? It will latch up when clipping without them.
I've built eight channels worth of Honey Badger/Wolverine derived amps, on the bones of vintage stereo receivers and integrateds.
Subjectively, the badger gives you all the detail with no fatigue. It never runs out of gas. It just disappears, with no audible error. Heaven, heaven is a place, a place where nothing, nothing ever happens.
Older class A and AB amp designs had to make a tradeoff between stability (freedom from parasitic oscillation) and distortion. Lower distortion designs were often prone to oscillation or poor transient response.
The TMC frequency compensation used by the Honey Badger and Wolverine is magic. While there's still a trade-off between distortion and stability, both parameters look so much better. Instead of a choice between adequate linearity and adequate stability, you can get oodles of both by a wide margin.
It works in simulation. It works in reality. It's not sensitive to parts choices or layout.
10/10, will build several more.
Subjectively, the badger gives you all the detail with no fatigue. It never runs out of gas. It just disappears, with no audible error. Heaven, heaven is a place, a place where nothing, nothing ever happens.
Older class A and AB amp designs had to make a tradeoff between stability (freedom from parasitic oscillation) and distortion. Lower distortion designs were often prone to oscillation or poor transient response.
The TMC frequency compensation used by the Honey Badger and Wolverine is magic. While there's still a trade-off between distortion and stability, both parameters look so much better. Instead of a choice between adequate linearity and adequate stability, you can get oodles of both by a wide margin.
It works in simulation. It works in reality. It's not sensitive to parts choices or layout.
10/10, will build several more.
the mid eighties pioneer amps and recievers used a very similar circuit to the honey badger. add series resistors to the output devices and the constant current stage on the differential PNP transistors.
Very nice amps with minor updates.
IRF9240 and IRF240 outputs also work very nicely.
Very nice amps with minor updates.
IRF9240 and IRF240 outputs also work very nicely.
The Badger is a really good Design. Pioneer used very similar designs in the early eighties.
Mosfet outputs make the Badger even better
Mosfet outputs make the Badger even better
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