I rearanged some speaks yesterday, swapped some things around.
During that I popped in one of my home brew phase plugs. This was after I had good listening experience with the Pioneers in the BIB.
In the action of putting in the plug, I could hear the sound die.
The plug is maybe a bit too long but the other possibility it that it's just a bad mod.
Which parameter determines how appropriate the use of a phase plug is?
Here is all I have on this discontinued speaker:
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/ps...568&FTR=269-568&CFID=1070041&CFTOKEN=90160100
I do not know much theory. But I sure could tell when my sound punked with insertion of the phase plug.
It may be these cheap speaks. Earlier on I read that the phase plug is not good for my FE127es at all. Mods are mods. I like experimenting.
So with the Pioneer dust cap off already and just a coat of Damar varnish, I wonder if I can go any further with these aside from sacrificially practicing doing EnABL ( do to starting pretty soon.)
During that I popped in one of my home brew phase plugs. This was after I had good listening experience with the Pioneers in the BIB.
In the action of putting in the plug, I could hear the sound die.
The plug is maybe a bit too long but the other possibility it that it's just a bad mod.
Which parameter determines how appropriate the use of a phase plug is?
Here is all I have on this discontinued speaker:
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/ps...568&FTR=269-568&CFID=1070041&CFTOKEN=90160100
I do not know much theory. But I sure could tell when my sound punked with insertion of the phase plug.
It may be these cheap speaks. Earlier on I read that the phase plug is not good for my FE127es at all. Mods are mods. I like experimenting.
So with the Pioneer dust cap off already and just a coat of Damar varnish, I wonder if I can go any further with these aside from sacrificially practicing doing EnABL ( do to starting pretty soon.)
Stopping your phase plugs from wandering
Use sticky dots (for putting photographs in albums)
or alternatively tiny squares of double sided tape the non-foam variety. put three around the plug, not too close to the edges.
no chance of re-aligning so you have to fit the plugs dead centre first time.
I roll mine in half a sheet of standard laser printer paper. two wraps at least, whatever is a gentle slip fit inside your voice coil.
Push the phase plug up inside the tube so it is 1 inch from the magnet end.
poke the paper tube into the voice coil until it almost bottoms out.
gently push the plug into place inside the paper tube.
remove the paper tube.
don't do this if you ever want to remove the plugs again. they can be removed but you risk damage to the plugs. I used a pair of multi-grips and twisted them to break the tape.
Use sticky dots (for putting photographs in albums)
or alternatively tiny squares of double sided tape the non-foam variety. put three around the plug, not too close to the edges.
no chance of re-aligning so you have to fit the plugs dead centre first time.
I roll mine in half a sheet of standard laser printer paper. two wraps at least, whatever is a gentle slip fit inside your voice coil.
Push the phase plug up inside the tube so it is 1 inch from the magnet end.
poke the paper tube into the voice coil until it almost bottoms out.
gently push the plug into place inside the paper tube.
remove the paper tube.
don't do this if you ever want to remove the plugs again. they can be removed but you risk damage to the plugs. I used a pair of multi-grips and twisted them to break the tape.
This is a good tip-- making the paper tube.
I don't want to stick it in there permanently at this time though.
I reworked mine a bit, sanded it flatter and to get it shorter and near flush with the speaker rim edge.
Fitting the plug by ear, I like to get down close to the
sound and that means laying the BIB on it's back and twiddling.
I just messed with it a bit now and seem to have gotten the tinniness
out of the sound. Will leave it that way for a time and see how it behaves.
This project should be included in the Caveman Audio that chrisb wants to start: using stone knives and bearskins to build speakers and make mods.
I don't want to stick it in there permanently at this time though.
I reworked mine a bit, sanded it flatter and to get it shorter and near flush with the speaker rim edge.
Fitting the plug by ear, I like to get down close to the
sound and that means laying the BIB on it's back and twiddling.
I just messed with it a bit now and seem to have gotten the tinniness
out of the sound. Will leave it that way for a time and see how it behaves.
This project should be included in the Caveman Audio that chrisb wants to start: using stone knives and bearskins to build speakers and make mods.
Re: Stopping your phase plugs from wandering
If your phase plugs have magnetic attachment you can stop them wandering with a tiny bit of ductseal or bluetac. Makes them harder to remove, but they still can.
dave
If your phase plugs have magnetic attachment you can stop them wandering with a tiny bit of ductseal or bluetac. Makes them harder to remove, but they still can.
dave
If wandering was the problem (does it happen during use?) and removability was desired with no permanent damage, I'd use a bit of rubber cement or caulk-- the same caulk I use to assemble my temp and some other boxes so I can reuse the parts. That stuff removed pretty easily.
There's also that goo that they use to put inserts in magazines that can be removed. It comes off completely.
Cave man tips galore.
😉
There's also that goo that they use to put inserts in magazines that can be removed. It comes off completely.
Cave man tips galore.
😉
Nothing has been done with this thread in a while but I was back at making phase plugs today.
I tried to get a lathe-type spin going with an electric hand drill but that was a big bust. Went back to doing the smoothing by hand.
While not wanting to do surgery on my 167e I have two old 8 in. Roland piano speaks gotten on Ebay as close outs. The care of these has not been the best and one of the thin paper whizzers got creased.
I made two plugs for separate jobs out of different diameter doweling-- one for the Pioneer at 18mm and one
larger for the Roland of 23 mm. There are two sizes of wooden craft eggs to cut to size for these.
Recalling that Scott had said that cutting the dust cap on the FE127e
has a high risk of damaging or cutting the wires to the cone because of placement in manufacture, I wondered about the statement that phase plugs didn't do much for those Fostex. (?)
The phase plug mod mentioned as at least doable was a lipstick tube placed over the dustcap.
This always intrigued me. Has anyone really done it? If weight is a problem is there any other hollow plastic bullet shape that might work? (I figure new readers might know of something.)
The goal for these plugs is to do a bit of pin point EnABLing on them to see how that goes.
I tried to get a lathe-type spin going with an electric hand drill but that was a big bust. Went back to doing the smoothing by hand.
While not wanting to do surgery on my 167e I have two old 8 in. Roland piano speaks gotten on Ebay as close outs. The care of these has not been the best and one of the thin paper whizzers got creased.
I made two plugs for separate jobs out of different diameter doweling-- one for the Pioneer at 18mm and one
larger for the Roland of 23 mm. There are two sizes of wooden craft eggs to cut to size for these.
Recalling that Scott had said that cutting the dust cap on the FE127e
has a high risk of damaging or cutting the wires to the cone because of placement in manufacture, I wondered about the statement that phase plugs didn't do much for those Fostex. (?)
The phase plug mod mentioned as at least doable was a lipstick tube placed over the dustcap.
This always intrigued me. Has anyone really done it? If weight is a problem is there any other hollow plastic bullet shape that might work? (I figure new readers might know of something.)
The goal for these plugs is to do a bit of pin point EnABLing on them to see how that goes.
only slightly off topic
Today I used an absolutely fresh X-acto blade to remove the dust cap on one of my Roland 8 inchers ($7.00 each so they are good to experiment with.) I am becoming less fearful of doing this even with the Roland which has a whizzer cone .
The phase plug made for it may be a little short but I haven't put the screws on yet.
I have been making the phase plug length to the plane of the
speaker front or "top" of the frame. Looking at pics from Planet 10
for the FE167e will likely be the best I can do for the Roland.
Note: I Modpodged the creased whizzer apparently to good effect. It is stiffer after a couple of coats.
Today I used an absolutely fresh X-acto blade to remove the dust cap on one of my Roland 8 inchers ($7.00 each so they are good to experiment with.) I am becoming less fearful of doing this even with the Roland which has a whizzer cone .
The phase plug made for it may be a little short but I haven't put the screws on yet.
I have been making the phase plug length to the plane of the
speaker front or "top" of the frame. Looking at pics from Planet 10
for the FE167e will likely be the best I can do for the Roland.
Note: I Modpodged the creased whizzer apparently to good effect. It is stiffer after a couple of coats.
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