Well, I may have outdone myself, but perhaps not the really meticulous carpenters. But I had to try to move from the original boombox rack I made,
which was stuck as 36" wide, to this new approach, which is a 15 pound "slider rack", with a width of 30" collapsed, and 6'+ extended.
The improvement in SQ absolutely blew me away when I did this.
Above: Collapsed and unfinished, sitting over my laptop on a three-sided prop.
Below: Finished, and with a homemade, collapsible table, for the full portable stereo.
As I say, the SQ improvement blew me away. It happened as soon as I screwed these speakers (Overnight Sensations) down to the rack.
I don't know if I ever would go back to unbolted speakers after this. The rack itself is made of poplar sandwiched between MDF layers.
In fact, the SQ got so good, I'm convinced that the console area and handle in between the speakers is audibly, adversely affecting the SQ.
I wondered how any kind of rattling would turn out... Nada. Zip. Zilch. These are 30" long 1.5" x 1.5" poplar legs that slide in and out of the rack,
and the kinetic energy travels freely through it - no rattle of any kind. It's been six months, now.
Cheers,
Mark
which was stuck as 36" wide, to this new approach, which is a 15 pound "slider rack", with a width of 30" collapsed, and 6'+ extended.
The improvement in SQ absolutely blew me away when I did this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Above: Collapsed and unfinished, sitting over my laptop on a three-sided prop.
Below: Finished, and with a homemade, collapsible table, for the full portable stereo.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As I say, the SQ improvement blew me away. It happened as soon as I screwed these speakers (Overnight Sensations) down to the rack.
I don't know if I ever would go back to unbolted speakers after this. The rack itself is made of poplar sandwiched between MDF layers.
In fact, the SQ got so good, I'm convinced that the console area and handle in between the speakers is audibly, adversely affecting the SQ.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I wondered how any kind of rattling would turn out... Nada. Zip. Zilch. These are 30" long 1.5" x 1.5" poplar legs that slide in and out of the rack,
and the kinetic energy travels freely through it - no rattle of any kind. It's been six months, now.
Cheers,
Mark
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Improvements for the next time...
1) Cut the maze walls on 45s, so as to remove their visible end grains
2) Bury the wires around the legs to the center area
3) Add a pull-out shelf for a laptop (or something for that)
4) Collapsing handle to improve SQ
5) Maybe bring the front of the speakers forward a bit for more improvement in SQ (or something)
1) Cut the maze walls on 45s, so as to remove their visible end grains
2) Bury the wires around the legs to the center area
3) Add a pull-out shelf for a laptop (or something for that)
4) Collapsing handle to improve SQ
5) Maybe bring the front of the speakers forward a bit for more improvement in SQ (or something)
I think so. But I didn't plan on that to start with, so it runs off of A/C. Considering the amount of power being used, using a TK-2050 amp, and for these speaker, running off of battery should be very doable.
I'm using a 200-watt Meanwell (RSP-200-27), but there are plenty of alternatives. An amp that runs off of 12-volt wouldn't have as much output in any event. But 24-volt would get the output. The thing I wonder about is how to get the 24 volt power off of battery, without it being unreasonable.
I'm quite sure a car battery, transformed to 24-volt, or even 30, would not get drained from an application like this too quickly. And then, there is the laptop, which has batteries, but really, is only a 65-watt draw. On average, the total between the two must never average more than 80 watts. I would also be curious as to battery alternatives for a TK-2050 that would last a while.
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Other note... I had mentioned no rattle or hum, but to add... I originally planned on clamps on the legs from the back side to stop that from happening, but once I saw how the wood behaved, I realized even adding clamps would just not be necessary. The wood doesn't work that way.
Great idea for a portable boombox!
Next time go full cheap-skate and use free leftover snow skis for the extensions. And link them together with a gear so they extend the same for good balance.
Next time go full cheap-skate and use free leftover snow skis for the extensions. And link them together with a gear so they extend the same for good balance.
Don't quit your day job to be a comedian. Nobody but the heckler likes the heckler.
Or spit it out, whatever it is.
I was trying to make the point that repurposed old skis are suitable as load-bearing rails for your apparatus. Sorry you took offense.
Ha ha. I would not use cheap anything to make what you see here. I was working as a carpenter when I made this, and I would bring it to work. This rack and table has a bunch of oak and poplar in it, and enough planing, sanding, gluing, staining, finishing, and other carpentry to never be done cheaply. I spent 3 week-ends making this rack and table.
As for the skis, I wouldn't know exactly what to think. These rails are fairly solid, with a pair for each speaker, they fit snug, and ground the kinetics, it seems, quite effectively. Skis are not (generally) parallel from end to end - they usually vary in width, which would have play, side-to-side. I suppose 30" pieces, or maybe 36" pieces with tips sticking out, would have some rigidity (using alpine skis). These would be my concerns.
Cheers.
As for the skis, I wouldn't know exactly what to think. These rails are fairly solid, with a pair for each speaker, they fit snug, and ground the kinetics, it seems, quite effectively. Skis are not (generally) parallel from end to end - they usually vary in width, which would have play, side-to-side. I suppose 30" pieces, or maybe 36" pieces with tips sticking out, would have some rigidity (using alpine skis). These would be my concerns.
Cheers.
I pondered a similar design, using a 2-wheel hand truck or "dolly" as the main frame. Fold down arms (L/R) that house some drivers, electronics either behind the arms or on the rear of the truck, and a battery mounted on the foot. One could use a big battery for good stability..
You inspired me for a winter project that I've put on the back shelf. Wife isn't going to like a hand truck sittin' in the living room for months but she'll enjoy it next summer.. 😉
You inspired me for a winter project that I've put on the back shelf. Wife isn't going to like a hand truck sittin' in the living room for months but she'll enjoy it next summer.. 😉
I should take my reaction with you back a bit. In fact, when I think back, I recognize that I ended up making this thing nicer than I would want to do for a portable unit.
What I did do was focused on SQ. I wanted very solid connections, and vibrational damping, which I think I got. But maybe if I lightened up a bit, really I think any weight added to the speakers (that they are bolted to) is going to be an audible improvement.
A simple listening test would be to attach a pair of speakers to the ends of a 6' pair of skis, and try it like that.
How far off the ground are you thinking of having the drivers? I targeted SQ quite a bit, and so the drivers are over 3' off the ground, and 6' apart, so as to clear the field around and between them. Of course, for the low bass, it wouldn't really be much of a consideration.
These are almost 42" tall so I can get 6' in width and 3' from the ground. I believe I can make it work..
http://www.harborfreight.com/materi...700-lb-capacity-utility-hand-truck-62199.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/materi...700-lb-capacity-utility-hand-truck-62199.html
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