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    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
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Hoffman Amps Turret Lugs?

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#27
Angela has the single turret-top standoffs too, but they are $1 each, hard to find the old ceramic ones with threaded ends. Guess I will have to break down and buy some.
I hate to have one pair of components soldered together in mid-air under a chassis, even with sleeving, I also try to avoid using a terminal strip for just 1 connection.
Radio Shack has cheap but very short plastic standoffs threaded on each end, but I don't really like the quality or shortness of them.
 
#28
frank754 said:
Angela has the single turret-top standoffs too, but they are $1 each, hard to find the old ceramic ones with threaded ends. Guess I will have to break down and buy some.
Click to expand...

That's the spirit! 😀

I have some ceramic ones here that I bought from Michael Percy some time back for a decent price. However I looked through is latest catalog and can't find them listed anymore. I turned him on to the ceramic Cambions and while he liked them, I guess they were a bit too pricey for him.

se
 
#31
Sherman said:
Does anyone here have any experience building amps using Hoffman Amps turret lugs? Anything to watch out for?

I've been thinking of using them in my new project. It appears the neatness factor would increase by an order of magnitude over my p2p wiring.

I was thinking of running wires from the tube sockets to the lugs rather than soldering components directly to the sockets (except for the grid-leak resistor and possibly the coupling cap).
Click to expand...


i have used Doug Hoffman's lugs many many many times. he is a good guy, and ships fast.
 
#32
I used turret lugs and 'glass epoxy board from tubedepot.

As for the tool?

You don't need to pay $30 for a "special" flared screw and tool. I used a bolt stud that had a tapered end, and chucked it into a drill press, with the board upside down and all the lugs in place. It does take special care to avoid crushing the turret lugs, but in all I only crushed 2, out of 50 lugs.


Here is a picture of the board.

http://getchellaudio.googlepages.com/DSC00710.JPG/DSC00710-full.jpg

if you want to check out the site this is the address: http://getchellaudio.googlepages.com/home2

Please keep in mind that it is under construction, so there are many spelling/puncto errs, due to laggy real time editing of googlepages. 😉
 
#33
That looks really nice, kind of explains the prevalence of metal standoffs, as many people use non-conductive boards.
Most of my projects have metal chassis' and non-conductive standoffs aren't that easy to find.
The type I mentioned from Angela are a good choice for that, in fact my dad's old parts box from the 50's had a few of these.
Also useful on old radio repair, when adding a couple electrolytic caps under the chassis, and you just need 1 lug at just one or two critical spots and don't have the space to spare.
Another choice (and Allied has them), are the hex-shaped nylon standoffs, threaded all the way through and of varying lengths, under $1 usually. One side can be attached to the chassis by drilling up from the topside and attaching a short screw, and on the under-chassis side you can either screw on a ground lug or else use just a slightly longer screw and wrap/solder the leads of a couple components around that.
 
#34
I prefer the glass epoxy boards because of ease of cutting and drilling.

Using the aluminum turrets made it easy to solder to them, and you can solder from the top, bottom, and wrap wires around them. They must be pre-etched, as the solder stuck to them perfectly. I have had trouble getting solder to stick to brass, and occasionally dirty copper.

Btw, I used nylon standoffs that I got at DoItBest hardware. I found out they carry a nice selection of stainless hardware as well, for very cheap! 😀
 
#35
ThSpeakerDude88 said:
As for the tool?

You don't need to pay $30 for a "special" flared screw and tool. I used a bolt stud that had a tapered end, and chucked it into a drill press, with the board upside down and all the lugs in place. It does take special care to avoid crushing the turret lugs, but in all I only crushed 2, out of 50 lugs.
Click to expand...

i use an eyelet setter from a craft store to flare the ends. As for the otherside to prevent crushing the turret... I just got a hollow threaded rod from a hardware store (that would fit the shaft, but not the shoulder) cut it down and bolted it to a board. Turn it upside down and WHACK!
 
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