High quality IEC chassis connector

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Sorry for not beeing clear/accurate enough about what I need. I'm looking for the chassis connector, the one that is installed in the amp. The ultimate would have been made from bakelite with gold plated copper connectors. All I can find is the cheap plastic/cromed steel stuff below, or variant of it with switch, fuse etc.
 

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Aaahh, I get it now. :bulb: You are looking for and IEC350/320 jack. I looked through all my references and was unable to come up with what you described above (bakelite/gold plated contacts). The best source I found with the most variety of different jacks is NEWARK. The offer a very extensive selection, but I prefer Schurter products, they seem to be better built and most are rated for euro power.
 
The closest thing I know of is:

<a href="http://www.furutech.com/accessory_page3.htm#04"><img src="http://www.furutech.com/0305/b-inletg.gif"></a>
INLET(G) : Audio grade AC INLET
Conductor with Non-magnetic 24K Gold plated.
Type: 2-pole+earth
Rating: 10A 250V A.C. for North American
Features: All parts are proceed with Bronze and non-magnetism.
Specifications: Totally insulated body is constructed of Nylon .
Certification: UL Recognized 10A 250V A.C. conductor.

Jope this helps
Regards
James
 
Wouldn't it be better to just wire the power directly into your Aleph 2 amplifiers and skip the IEC chassis connector? No matter how good of an IEC connector that you get, you are still adding contacts, which I couldn't imagine to be better then wiring straight in. I wouldn't imagine that you would be moving the Alephs around too much, so the attached power cable shouldn't make much of a difference.

I just figured for mine, I go to all of the work of getting a nice power plug, some 10ga power cable, and why not wire the power cable directly into the transformer...

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Brian
 
Breakers are not designed to be used regularly as switches, and would have a shorter life if used as such.

But I can see no problem in using one as well as a power switch, I don't know what it's like on your side of the pond, but they can be obtained in Europe with different ratings and speeds, so ones rated for motor use should be fine for inrush currents on big transformers. The only problems I can see are the inaccesibility of the contacts for cleaning, unlike fuseholders, and the limited range of values they are available in, as well as the expense over a normal fuse and holder.
 
Home Depot has a huge selection of breakers, and the cost wouldn't be that much more if you calculated the cost of the normal power switch and the fuse and fuse holder into the cost for comparison.

What about implementing it similar to the pass labs amplfiers, using a breaker for the back, and then using a push button switch on the front triggering relays to turn the amp on, or putting it in standby mode? This way, you could also improve the life of the caps by leaving them charged when in standby mode.

You could use a toggle relay and a push button for activating the standby mode. I wonder if this is what the pass labs amps use...

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Brian


pinkmouse said:
Breakers are not designed to be used regularly as switches, and would have a shorter life if used as such.

But I can see no problem in using one as well as a power switch, I don't know what it's like on your side of the pond, but they can be obtained in Europe with different ratings and speeds, so ones rated for motor use should be fine for inrush currents on big transformers. The only problems I can see are the inaccesibility of the contacts for cleaning, unlike fuseholders, and the limited range of values they are available in, as well as the expense over a normal fuse and holder.
 
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