Uf, I know this amp from Helix, but true hi-end is BRAX. DIY is possible, but I don't know if anyone have a shematic of these amps.
Here is a picture and link to site:
http://www.k7-world.de:95/
best regards,
LEON
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is a picture and link to site:
http://www.k7-world.de:95/
best regards,
LEON
Attachments
Speaking of Brax. Have you guys seen this picture ? Its their new component set.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi Leon,
sorry for being offtopic here but would you still send out your layout for the ZenV4.
I´d interested in the Eagle-files.
I tried to email you but the email came back with "unknown server".
Regards
Jens
sorry for being offtopic here but would you still send out your layout for the ZenV4.
I´d interested in the Eagle-files.
I tried to email you but the email came back with "unknown server".
Regards
Jens
joensd said:
off-topic: Sorry about email. I see your message today and I'll send you today.
best regards,
LEON
Brax (Helix), Mcintosh, Zapco are among the top dog of the auto amp world. They are priced at around $1,000+ and their compact design should make good choice for DIY. From what I've seen, Helix's components are surface mounted and they are quite tiny to be solder by hands. Has anyone seen the interior of the Mcintosh and the Zapco amps?
Another great looking/sounding car amplifier is Mmats. They are a company in florida.
Cheers
KevinLee
Cheers
KevinLee
If it was a mono amp, it probably was a D class sub amp. Often mono amps are not designed for high fidelity but for bang for a watt.
13 years ago I used to have a JVC amp. One thing I've noticed about low end amps is that the noise floor was quite high. Diminishing economics of scale applies on all higher end equipments but I wonder how much gain you would get from $300 amps to $1000 ones. Has anyone tested them?
13 years ago I used to have a JVC amp. One thing I've noticed about low end amps is that the noise floor was quite high. Diminishing economics of scale applies on all higher end equipments but I wonder how much gain you would get from $300 amps to $1000 ones. Has anyone tested them?
I know everyone here is interested in high end auto amps, but what about a nice littly starter project for something that has JVC or BOSS, type quality? I have a ripped and burnt BOSS auto amp. I'd like to start from scratch and just build one. I dont find it impossibble to just use the BOSS heat sink, i can always custom make the parts. I'd be more interested in getting something cheaper that is more reliable than the Brand name ones. I used to think that DIY stuff was cheaper and better, but it seems not to be the case here...or so i've found. anythoughts?
I am in the process of building myself a new home theater amplifier, and have been strongly debating about scaling a car version of the amp down to ~100W/4 ohms x4 plus the ubiquitous 500W/2 for sub. 😉 The real headache at hand for me is designing and building a 1000W DC-DC power supply with multiple pos and neg rails. 🙁
Cheers,
Mark Broker
because i'm new I dont understand why you need tochange the voltage in a amp. I guess i could understand in a home amp, but a car amp? isn't 12v enough to drive any sub or tweeter? ugh i hate being new.😕
With only one 12V and one ground rail, the amp would only have about 5V peak to peak of output, including losses. 5Vp-p is a whopping 6.25W into a 4 ohm load. 😱 Plenty, IMHO, for the reciever/deck, but not for a power amp!
I need to change the rail voltage in my home theater amp to adapt it to car use because I don't need it to drive 250W into a 4 ohm load, which is its rating. The heat sinks, among other issues, begin to take up too much room in an already small trunk.
Hope that answers your question. 🙂
Mark Broker
I need to change the rail voltage in my home theater amp to adapt it to car use because I don't need it to drive 250W into a 4 ohm load, which is its rating. The heat sinks, among other issues, begin to take up too much room in an already small trunk.
Hope that answers your question. 🙂
Mark Broker
Hey Mr. "Alwaysonthedog" ("ImmeraufdemHund"),
really nice and funny name😀 .
May I ask how you come to that name?
You´re one of those "strange-german-word-likers"?
Regards
Jens
really nice and funny name😀 .
May I ask how you come to that name?
You´re one of those "strange-german-word-likers"?
Regards
Jens
yah i like those strange german phrases and what not... ooh i hate talking off subject... i'll write something about the amp in a second, cause of course i have more questions. I've taken about 3 years of german. My first year i was really interested in leraning the language so i was always bothering the german exchange students... I eventually went out with one, but that didnt' work out... they taught me a bunch of funny sayings and what not. if anyone wants to go to the bathroom in german ask your teacher "Kann ich bitte meine nortdurf verrichten?" which means can i go do my little buisness (in a shakespear tone)... if they say no... then say "ich hab durchfallen! ICH MUSS GEHEN ICH MUSS GEHEN!"...which means i have diareah, i must go, i must go!..hehe.. the immeraufdemhund comes from a song...well kinda. If ayone is familiar with Die Prinzen - Mein Bester Freund then listen to the 1st verse second sentance. "mein bester freund ist immer auf der hut." but me and my german buddies wanted to play around and make fun of people, so we changed the lyrics and said that. Well I liked it so much i made it my email, and from my email to my log in name... my old name used to be Compaq31...lamo! so anywho... enought about german. Now for the questoins...
what is a rail?? is that a wire, or is it a special term used to signify a special way of grounding?... what's the formula to go from watts to voltage?? does it have to do with E=I*R cause if it does then i think i know it.. is it P=I*E = I^2*R = E^2/R
so say i my driver is 100W max 4ohm.. that means 100*4 = 400, and the root of that 20 volts....so i'd need to boost my singnal from (say it's mono) 12v to a little more than 20volts to push that driver to the limits? is that right?
what is a rail?? is that a wire, or is it a special term used to signify a special way of grounding?... what's the formula to go from watts to voltage?? does it have to do with E=I*R cause if it does then i think i know it.. is it P=I*E = I^2*R = E^2/R
so say i my driver is 100W max 4ohm.. that means 100*4 = 400, and the root of that 20 volts....so i'd need to boost my singnal from (say it's mono) 12v to a little more than 20volts to push that driver to the limits? is that right?
------------------------------------------------------
No sorry, 20 VOLTS DC give only
plus minus 10 volts peak swing
so gives MAXIMUM teoretically:
10x10/(2x8ohm)= 100/16= 6,25 Watt rms out / 8 ohms L-SP
10x10/(2x4ohm)= 100/8= 12,50 Watt rms out / 4 ohms L-SP
10x10/(2x2ohm)= 100/4= 25,00 Watt rms out / 2 ohms L-Sp
/halojoy - save this table, it could be useful in your future 😎
No sorry, 20 VOLTS DC give only
plus minus 10 volts peak swing
so gives MAXIMUM teoretically:
10x10/(2x8ohm)= 100/16= 6,25 Watt rms out / 8 ohms L-SP
10x10/(2x4ohm)= 100/8= 12,50 Watt rms out / 4 ohms L-SP
10x10/(2x2ohm)= 100/4= 25,00 Watt rms out / 2 ohms L-Sp
/halojoy - save this table, it could be useful in your future 😎
Not quite. Rail voltage means the amplifier DC supply voltage. Couldn't tell you why they call it "rail voltage," tho.
Yes, P=E^2/R. 100W into ohms is indeed 20V, but that's RMS (Root Mean Square). The peak voltage would then be 20*sqrt(2), or 20*1.414 = 28.3V. But that's an AC signal which would swing from negative 28.3V to positive 28.3V, or 56.6V peak to peak. This assumes no losses in the amplifier circuit, which never happens in real life. Therefore the supply voltage of a "real world" amplifier would have to be slightly higher than ideal. 😎
Cheers,
Mark Broker
Yes, P=E^2/R. 100W into ohms is indeed 20V, but that's RMS (Root Mean Square). The peak voltage would then be 20*sqrt(2), or 20*1.414 = 28.3V. But that's an AC signal which would swing from negative 28.3V to positive 28.3V, or 56.6V peak to peak. This assumes no losses in the amplifier circuit, which never happens in real life. Therefore the supply voltage of a "real world" amplifier would have to be slightly higher than ideal. 😎
Cheers,
Mark Broker
halojoy said:
For a 12 VDC (sometimes 13.8 or 14 v is used as definition)
gives plus minus 6 volts peak Swing
Maximum teoretical output:
6x6/(2x8ohms)= 36/16 = 2,25 Watt rms out / 8 ohms L-Speakers
6x6/(2x4ohms)= 36/08 = 4,50 Watt rms out / 4 ohms L-Speakers
6x6/(2x2ohms)= 36/04 = 9,00 Watt rms out / 2 ohms L-Speakers
/halojoy - save this table,
this might also be useful in your future 😎
so i'd have to change the 14v to 57v to run a 100w system? now how is dc voltage changed? I know how they change ac voltage... is it the same concept? You guys are great, some small things are finally starting to make some sense... I KNOW WHAT RMS MEANS NOW!
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