Good evening,
I own a KEF CS1 pair of loudspeakers that sound amazing. Currently they are driven by a Sharp Optonica SM5100 2x33W @8ohm stereo amplifier. I was thinking of constructing a small subwoofer (8" or 10" driver) with high pass inputs-outputs to enhance the low frequencies reproduction. Since these speakers are located in a small room (~20sq.m. area, 3m high) and I'm not looking for a boomy bass but for a flat reproduction I was thinking of going for a plate amp like that one: Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier. Can you recommend me a driver to match with or even an enclosure design. I can alwaus use winisd to calculate the cabin of course.
Thank you in advance!
I own a KEF CS1 pair of loudspeakers that sound amazing. Currently they are driven by a Sharp Optonica SM5100 2x33W @8ohm stereo amplifier. I was thinking of constructing a small subwoofer (8" or 10" driver) with high pass inputs-outputs to enhance the low frequencies reproduction. Since these speakers are located in a small room (~20sq.m. area, 3m high) and I'm not looking for a boomy bass but for a flat reproduction I was thinking of going for a plate amp like that one: Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier. Can you recommend me a driver to match with or even an enclosure design. I can alwaus use winisd to calculate the cabin of course.
Thank you in advance!
Most important now is to have an idea of the volume of the speaker you have available (foot print & height) in Liters (?) so we know what driver to use, and we work out the net volume necessary for the subspeaker.😀
Hi,
Just note that speaker connected high pass outputs are
normally just two cheap capacitors and don't work well.
Most cheap plate amps don't have line level highpass.
What you want is a small sub that goes low but not loud.
81dB speakers driven by 33W don't need much sub SPL.
Generally you'd run it parallel with the speakers. Any
old wire will do to drive the subamps speaker inputs.
(As it carries minimal current without sats connected.)
rgds, sreten.
Just note that speaker connected high pass outputs are
normally just two cheap capacitors and don't work well.
Most cheap plate amps don't have line level highpass.
What you want is a small sub that goes low but not loud.
81dB speakers driven by 33W don't need much sub SPL.
Generally you'd run it parallel with the speakers. Any
old wire will do to drive the subamps speaker inputs.
(As it carries minimal current without sats connected.)
rgds, sreten.
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did you mean this one?
Rogers International Ltd.
I recall hearing something along those lines demo'd at a show a while back, and it worked well enough - remembering that the intended application is not large venue PA / THX certified home theatre levels.
And +1 on the quality of built in speaker high pass outs of most plate amps - when present at all, they leave much to be desired and are often potted in place and in such a restricted area that "upgrading" is virtually impossible.
OTOH, there may well be enough space to add a couple of caps & resistors to the line output to modify it to a PLL high pass filter.
koozoop:
If you're selecting a Dayton plate amp, why not consider one of their own brand drivers? They have quite a few from which to choose in the 6-10" range, and of course an interesting range of pre-built powered subs from $99 to $999
Rogers International Ltd.
I recall hearing something along those lines demo'd at a show a while back, and it worked well enough - remembering that the intended application is not large venue PA / THX certified home theatre levels.
And +1 on the quality of built in speaker high pass outs of most plate amps - when present at all, they leave much to be desired and are often potted in place and in such a restricted area that "upgrading" is virtually impossible.
OTOH, there may well be enough space to add a couple of caps & resistors to the line output to modify it to a PLL high pass filter.
koozoop:
If you're selecting a Dayton plate amp, why not consider one of their own brand drivers? They have quite a few from which to choose in the 6-10" range, and of course an interesting range of pre-built powered subs from $99 to $999
I would consider for now two drivers for a sealed speaker sub if OP is interested.
The Peerless SLS830667 from Wilmslow Audio co uk, in a 28/30 Liters enclosure.
The Dayton RSS210HF4 also for a ~30 L.
The Peerless SLS830667 from Wilmslow Audio co uk, in a 28/30 Liters enclosure.
The Dayton RSS210HF4 also for a ~30 L.
Hello. Thank you all for your responses!
Sreten, do you think that the AB1 with its crossover would work well with my CS1 speakers? The CS1 uses the B110B-SP1057 instead of the SP1003 version. Now, I have in hand another pair of B110-SP1057 which I wanted to use for a 3-way TL speaker (B139-B110-T27, there is a discussion going on here). Now you have me considering the AB1 kit since the listening room is quite small (~20sq.m.) and my amp is giving only 33Watts@8ohm.
Sreten, do you think that the AB1 with its crossover would work well with my CS1 speakers? The CS1 uses the B110B-SP1057 instead of the SP1003 version. Now, I have in hand another pair of B110-SP1057 which I wanted to use for a 3-way TL speaker (B139-B110-T27, there is a discussion going on here). Now you have me considering the AB1 kit since the listening room is quite small (~20sq.m.) and my amp is giving only 33Watts@8ohm.
It's a bandpass good for the frequency range you need, is limited above and below and has slow transients in the time domain. We can simulate with same driver or another.
Hi,
I can't guarantee anything. The problem with passive subs
is they either work well or they don't. It could work well.
rgds, sreten.
I can't guarantee anything. The problem with passive subs
is they either work well or they don't. It could work well.
rgds, sreten.
Also have a look at the BK Electronics site. They sell complete subs but also the drive units and plate amps for them (under Loudspeakers and Amplifiers in the menu along the top - a little hidden). If nothing else, it gives you a feel for good commercial products on which to base your own.
B.K. Electronics Homepage
B.K. Electronics Homepage
It's been a long time since I opened this thread. Since then I upgraded the cross and the cabins of my CS1 which is now driven by an upgraded Quad 33/303 set and a Topping D10 usb DAC. Sounds fantastic in my 10 sq.m office but even though it lacks a bit of oomph on the lower end. I will forget any plans I had for an active sub and I will proceed with a passive sub for each speaker, in the style of AB1 (it will also serve as a stand for the CS1) but with a maximum of 6,5" driver (the restriction here is the internal dimension of the depth which is 176mm (for 12mm thick mdf) either closed, vented or bandpass. I don't to achieve a loud lower region rather than a more hifi bass response, as low as I can get with such a driver.
Since this is the first time I design a driver-box-cross, I decided to go with a cheap driver along with either an allpass or a filter that lets frequencies from say 85Hz and up. The drivers I have come up with up till now are from Peerless:
a) SDS-P830657 (https://www.tymphany.com/wp-content/themes/pathfinders/cache/pdfs/SDS-P830657.pdf)
b) SDS-160F25CP01-08 (https://www.tymphany.com/wp-content/themes/pathfinders/cache/pdfs/SDS-160F25CP01-08.pdf) and
c) HDS-P830875 https://www.tymphany.com/wp-content/themes/pathfinders/cache/pdfs/HDS-P830875.pdf
I would like your opinion on these units. If you can suggest another driver that can fit the box (internal dimensions: 156W x 176D x up to 800mm height ie a maximum of 22lt volume) please let me know. Time is not important since this is my first step in a real diy construction.
Thanx in advance!
Since this is the first time I design a driver-box-cross, I decided to go with a cheap driver along with either an allpass or a filter that lets frequencies from say 85Hz and up. The drivers I have come up with up till now are from Peerless:
a) SDS-P830657 (https://www.tymphany.com/wp-content/themes/pathfinders/cache/pdfs/SDS-P830657.pdf)
b) SDS-160F25CP01-08 (https://www.tymphany.com/wp-content/themes/pathfinders/cache/pdfs/SDS-160F25CP01-08.pdf) and
c) HDS-P830875 https://www.tymphany.com/wp-content/themes/pathfinders/cache/pdfs/HDS-P830875.pdf
I would like your opinion on these units. If you can suggest another driver that can fit the box (internal dimensions: 156W x 176D x up to 800mm height ie a maximum of 22lt volume) please let me know. Time is not important since this is my first step in a real diy construction.
Thanx in advance!
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