Hello, all. I am new to this community, and I hope someone can help me. I have recently purchased a Hickok 605, which turned out to have a few problems. Even though it tests rectifier tubes such as 5y3, 5z4, and 5ar4 correctly, it does not function properly when I attempt to test 6v6s and 12ax7s. Both 6v6s and 12ax7s are tested with the use of the p4 switch, while the aforementioned rectifiers use the p3 switch. It appears that nothing happens (i.e., the needle stays still) when tubes that require the pressing of the tester's p4 switch are attempted for tests.
Can anyone please instruct me as to what may be the problem with this tester? I am thinking, first, of replacing caps and resistors, but since I do not have the schematic for this particular tester, I cannot be sure of the correct values. If anyone knows where to locate the schematic for the Hickok 605, please let me know. In fact, any help/advice would be appreciated.
Thank you so much in advance.
Hachiro
Can anyone please instruct me as to what may be the problem with this tester? I am thinking, first, of replacing caps and resistors, but since I do not have the schematic for this particular tester, I cannot be sure of the correct values. If anyone knows where to locate the schematic for the Hickok 605, please let me know. In fact, any help/advice would be appreciated.
Thank you so much in advance.
Hachiro
Dear Bill_P,
Thank you for the information. I have found the manual as well as the schematic for the 605A, but could not find one for the 605, which is the model I have. I wonder if the schematic for the 605A could be used for the 605. I imagine there must be some differences. In any case, I am grateful for your information! Thank you so much!
Best regards,
Hachiro
Thank you for the information. I have found the manual as well as the schematic for the 605A, but could not find one for the 605, which is the model I have. I wonder if the schematic for the 605A could be used for the 605. I imagine there must be some differences. In any case, I am grateful for your information! Thank you so much!
Best regards,
Hachiro
If you replace resistors and caps, it will no longer be a hickok 605, nor will it be a tube tester...
The most common failure mode is the 83 tube, followed by - on some units - a silicon diode across the meter. I know from personal experience that a flaky or dead 83 will deliver odd behavior.
A shorted diode across the meter will render the meter useless. The diode shorts to save the meter - which is basically irreplaceable. Does not sound like your problem.
Check/replace the 83 then try again. While the case is open, check/replace the 5Y3 too.
If you still have trouble, get a DMM in the sockets and test for reasonable voltages for the tube under test.
Also check the panel bulbs. It probably has an 81 and an NE-45, one for shorts, one for gas - or something like that. Those bulbs going out can also render the tester dead or behaving oddly. One of the panel bulbs is a fuse for B+...
In the mean time, keep the soldering iron far away from the tester.
-e
The most common failure mode is the 83 tube, followed by - on some units - a silicon diode across the meter. I know from personal experience that a flaky or dead 83 will deliver odd behavior.
A shorted diode across the meter will render the meter useless. The diode shorts to save the meter - which is basically irreplaceable. Does not sound like your problem.
Check/replace the 83 then try again. While the case is open, check/replace the 5Y3 too.
If you still have trouble, get a DMM in the sockets and test for reasonable voltages for the tube under test.
Also check the panel bulbs. It probably has an 81 and an NE-45, one for shorts, one for gas - or something like that. Those bulbs going out can also render the tester dead or behaving oddly. One of the panel bulbs is a fuse for B+...
In the mean time, keep the soldering iron far away from the tester.
-e
Dear Ehermion,
Thank you for your advice. You are right: I should not hastily use a soldering iron! As you indicated, I will check the first things first. That is, checking tubes, voltages, and fuses. Speaking of fuses, I noticed that, when I was checking the tester today, when the tube--such as 5y3s, 5ar4s, 5v4s, and 5z4s--that rendered the needle to move was in the socket, the fuse lamp in the lower left did not light. This was not the case with the tubes that could be tested: when a 6v6 was placed in the socket, the fuse lamp lit. If this condition can give a further clue as to what is happening, I would appreciate any further advice. In the meantime, I will keep in mind to not solder unless necessary! Thank you again.
Regards,
Hachiro
Thank you for your advice. You are right: I should not hastily use a soldering iron! As you indicated, I will check the first things first. That is, checking tubes, voltages, and fuses. Speaking of fuses, I noticed that, when I was checking the tester today, when the tube--such as 5y3s, 5ar4s, 5v4s, and 5z4s--that rendered the needle to move was in the socket, the fuse lamp in the lower left did not light. This was not the case with the tubes that could be tested: when a 6v6 was placed in the socket, the fuse lamp lit. If this condition can give a further clue as to what is happening, I would appreciate any further advice. In the meantime, I will keep in mind to not solder unless necessary! Thank you again.
Regards,
Hachiro
With the help from people who have given me advice via this community, finally, I have been able to get my Hickok 605 to work properly. I have checked the internal tubes, fuses, and voltages, and ended up replacing the 83 tube and #49 bulb. In addition, one of the pins on a tube socket (for 6v6 etc) looked brittle. So, I soldered it to make it firmer. Now it works like it should, though pretty soon I will need to calibrate it. In any case, I would like to thank all of you who have provided me with valuable information. I wish all of you in the community a happy new year!!!
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