Hi folks,
As a way of an introduction, a little background. I am a motorcyclist and have modified bikes for 40 years or so. so mechanically and hand tool adept. I have also been a Hi Fi modifier for 30 years take or give, mainly turntables as these are mechanical and as such, a fantastic ground for modification utilising my motorcycling mod skills.
I try to work using basic hand tools so anything I can do is within the reach of anyone who can use these. I am honest and so failures will also be documented otherwise how do we learn. I'm not fussy about the appearance of mods as long as they work and have a severe distaste for Hi Fi snobbery.
I read through quite a few posts on this site, particularly in the LP 12 mods section and thought I may have something to give in this section as I've been modifying my current lp 12 for 2 years now. I have in the past Modified 3 Thorens TD150 mk 2s, and an Acoustic research "The turntable" with pretty good results. (still have those) So would like to share and of course leech any ideas others have in regards to turntable mods.
My current project is an LP 12, the plinth is a 40 years anniversary "Whisky" model, (just the plinth), I'm running standard springs, a 10mm duralloy sub chassis (my own design), 10mm duralloy arm board (also my own design) an Ittok lvII tonearm with an Ortofon M2 Black cart and stylus with a Roksan HDC2 tonearm cable. This is fed power by a Vinyl Passion two speed card (external with my own box), a Vinyl Passion top plate and standard 80s motor. I also use a Cirkus bearing as it was cheap (not that I noticed any difference) just being honest.
I also have my Roksan Radius V with Nima arm and Ortofon Black (totally unmodified) set up along side my Linn with a passive switch to allow quick swap. I ran the Roksan for 15 years after falling foul of the "Hi FI trap" listening to my system rather than the music. So resigned myself to the Roksan to stop this.
The reason I set the Roksan up side by side with the Linn was so that I could hear what I was doing, the Roksan is nice and I was happy enough with that, but I've already got far greater depth, detail and a massive soundstage from my current project using exactly the same equipment (true test).
My friend actually lasered the logos on the Linn 40th plinths and this one he gave me was a reject (try out for laser set up) he said I could have it, so what could I do except make the best of it.
I am currently of version 3 of my sub chassis design and eager to share.
As a way of an introduction, a little background. I am a motorcyclist and have modified bikes for 40 years or so. so mechanically and hand tool adept. I have also been a Hi Fi modifier for 30 years take or give, mainly turntables as these are mechanical and as such, a fantastic ground for modification utilising my motorcycling mod skills.
I try to work using basic hand tools so anything I can do is within the reach of anyone who can use these. I am honest and so failures will also be documented otherwise how do we learn. I'm not fussy about the appearance of mods as long as they work and have a severe distaste for Hi Fi snobbery.
I read through quite a few posts on this site, particularly in the LP 12 mods section and thought I may have something to give in this section as I've been modifying my current lp 12 for 2 years now. I have in the past Modified 3 Thorens TD150 mk 2s, and an Acoustic research "The turntable" with pretty good results. (still have those) So would like to share and of course leech any ideas others have in regards to turntable mods.
My current project is an LP 12, the plinth is a 40 years anniversary "Whisky" model, (just the plinth), I'm running standard springs, a 10mm duralloy sub chassis (my own design), 10mm duralloy arm board (also my own design) an Ittok lvII tonearm with an Ortofon M2 Black cart and stylus with a Roksan HDC2 tonearm cable. This is fed power by a Vinyl Passion two speed card (external with my own box), a Vinyl Passion top plate and standard 80s motor. I also use a Cirkus bearing as it was cheap (not that I noticed any difference) just being honest.
I also have my Roksan Radius V with Nima arm and Ortofon Black (totally unmodified) set up along side my Linn with a passive switch to allow quick swap. I ran the Roksan for 15 years after falling foul of the "Hi FI trap" listening to my system rather than the music. So resigned myself to the Roksan to stop this.
The reason I set the Roksan up side by side with the Linn was so that I could hear what I was doing, the Roksan is nice and I was happy enough with that, but I've already got far greater depth, detail and a massive soundstage from my current project using exactly the same equipment (true test).
My friend actually lasered the logos on the Linn 40th plinths and this one he gave me was a reject (try out for laser set up) he said I could have it, so what could I do except make the best of it.
I am currently of version 3 of my sub chassis design and eager to share.