Unfortunately i did not take any photos during construction. The only changes i made were to increase the side panels to 35mm mdf for greater rigidity. This is the second transmission line of this design i have made. The first i had to leave after marriage breakup (she liked it too much).I always missed the sound it produced. I am now sort of considering trying my hand at an atkinson transmission line simply for the challenge of the carpentry involved.
Tony is there a reason why you left the design with the mids and tweeters separated my such a distance?? Just getting the original drivers must have taken an effort, congratulations on finishing
The distance between mid range driver(b110) and tweeter (t27) is as per the original design.The only thing i changed was to make the front of the speaker in two sections. Base and mid range in one and tweeter and super tweeter in the other.The reason for this was that if i decided to upgrade to better speakers at a later date i could do this easily without making an entire front piece, which involves a lot more rebating and woodwork.
Hi Planet10,
are you interested in that old stuff? I think I have some old articles in my archive.
If yes pls PN.
Regards
Heinrich
are you interested in that old stuff? I think I have some old articles in my archive.
If yes pls PN.
Regards
Heinrich
transmission line
Yes i have a full copy of the Chris Rogers hi-fi answers transmission line also a copy of the later version pro9TL which was a 3 way system with a similar interior fold setup.I also have photos of atkinson TL during construction (very complex) If you can e-mail me i will send them to you. Not sure whether it is ok to put e-mail addresses on post, please advise.
Regards
Tony
Yes i have a full copy of the Chris Rogers hi-fi answers transmission line also a copy of the later version pro9TL which was a 3 way system with a similar interior fold setup.I also have photos of atkinson TL during construction (very complex) If you can e-mail me i will send them to you. Not sure whether it is ok to put e-mail addresses on post, please advise.
Regards
Tony
I have the 1st 2 and the Atkinson article. Don't have build pictures thou.
That doesn't look like the specified T27 in the pictures of your Pro9TL Mk1.
dave
That doesn't look like the specified T27 in the pictures of your Pro9TL Mk1.
dave
hello everyone, I have general question, I have just acquired the kef b139 plus some of the other drivers to make the cambridge r50 hifi answers speakers, I intend to build in about a months time once final driver and crossover have been settled on, I will post the entire project with all construction and crossover design, and photos of the whole project, the cabinet size i have in mind is roughly H 1300MM X W 300M X D 520MM, using 30mm mdf. The tl vent will be at the bottom of the cabinet, then base, mid, treble, super tweeter, in that config. Any hints tips would be much appreciated, thanyou.
You can find some info over here:
SpeakerTalk :: View topic - Cambridge Audio R50 Transmission line speakers + DIY
Good luck
SpeakerTalk :: View topic - Cambridge Audio R50 Transmission line speakers + DIY
Good luck
You'd be better off with 18mm Baltic Birch than 30mm MDF. If you are going to put the terminus at the bottom, it is not going to be an R5/Pro9TL (the Mark 2 Pro9TL, has the terminus at the top, you could flip the whole thing upside down (as attached).
dave
Attachments
Thanks for your info, it was very helpful. One question. I've had a look at Baltic Birch, which is something that I would not have previously considered for a loudspeaker design project. While it is ok strength wise, it is no substitute for Marine or Water Boil Proof ply. The furniture industry make good use of this product but over time the layers will begin to separate. Is it possibly just better suited for a TL design?
Regards, Sabre 65.
Regards, Sabre 65.
Baltic Birch is better suited for most speaker projects. The other plys mentioned are usually suggested subs. What you are looking for is the maximum stiffness. This is usually largly dictated by the number of plys -- the more the better. 18mm BB has 13 plys. BB is considered a shop grade ply, if you want to look to something even better, stranded bamboo 3 layer composite ply is VERY nice.
Speakers aren't usually subjected to being immersed in water, and BB is certainly a lot longer lasting than MDF.
dave
I was thinking more about natural delamination, where moisture would get in and cause the layers to peel apart over time. I have no intention of giving my speakers swimming lessons. I wanted to use 30mm mdf because of it's strength and it's weight to achieve maximum stiffness. I'm assuming 18mm baltic birch would be lighter than 30mm mdf, is there a trade of between stiffness and weight. steve
You need on average about 1 1/8in thicknesses of MDF to ~match the stiffness of 3/4in of baltic birch, albeit at the price of substantially greater mass.
Ok so what is the maximum thickness of baltic available, i'm a great believer in the mass principle. oh please be carefull and i don't have many toys left. steve
pics
regards
angelo e
Hello, I wonder if you have any more pics like the one on display here. I am about to start constructing a pair of those sota speakers and I am trying to guther as much of info as posible. Have you finished them? how do they sound?
regards
angelo e
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