Any suggestions for Celestion HF2001 replacement?
I read lots of threads and most close one looks like a Seas 19TFF1.
AFAIK there is no data for HF2001 except voice coil diameter. So, how we know seas replacement is close or match for HF2001?
Anyone succesfully integrate 19TFF1 in place of HF2001?
What about crossover mods? Do I have to modify crossover for seas replacement?
Speakers are ditton 332.
I read lots of threads and most close one looks like a Seas 19TFF1.
AFAIK there is no data for HF2001 except voice coil diameter. So, how we know seas replacement is close or match for HF2001?
Anyone succesfully integrate 19TFF1 in place of HF2001?
What about crossover mods? Do I have to modify crossover for seas replacement?
Speakers are ditton 332.
I would be happy to trust the judgement of Falcon Acoustics here in the UK: Seas 19TFF1 H0737-08 Tweeter - Celestion HF2000 replacement
Yes Galu, I trust their judgement too, but I need user opinion. Is it sounds same as hf2001? Or people which replaced their hf2001 with 19TFF1 disappointed with the result?
HF2001 is metal dome, 19TFF1 is soft dome.
Should I chase hf2001, or go with the 19TFF1?
HF2001 is metal dome, 19TFF1 is soft dome.
Should I chase hf2001, or go with the 19TFF1?
Having had no direct experience with either tweeter, the best thing I can do is give your thread a bump.
Given the 332 is a three-way, the tweeter crossover frequency will be high, making tweeter substitution a bit less problematical than for a two-way where the tweeter has to reproduce a wider band of frequencies.
Personally, I'd go for the modern replacement rather than a second hand original which could be below par in performance or about ready to throw in the towel.
I presume you've heard your 332s playing with their original tweeters working and have a reference for how they should sound - or are both the HF2001s faulty?
Given the 332 is a three-way, the tweeter crossover frequency will be high, making tweeter substitution a bit less problematical than for a two-way where the tweeter has to reproduce a wider band of frequencies.
Personally, I'd go for the modern replacement rather than a second hand original which could be below par in performance or about ready to throw in the towel.
I presume you've heard your 332s playing with their original tweeters working and have a reference for how they should sound - or are both the HF2001s faulty?
One has failed, other one is working flawless.
Looks like best thing I can do is get seas replacements and listen and experiment.
Looks like best thing I can do is get seas replacements and listen and experiment.
Without knowing much about it, I very much doubt if a Celestion HF2001 is a metal dome. 😕
Replacement diaphragm for tweeter celestion hf2001 t2936-celestion ditton 442 | eBay
Mylar plastic, I reckon. That clear plastic stuff that fizzy drinks bottles come in.
Metal is entirely different, more like the silvery tins your baked beans come in:
And for completeness a cloth-like soft dome, which is soft and dark in appearance:
I think ideally you want a mylar dome like the Vifa 19TD to preserve the tone, which relied on the grille cloth to tame the typical rising top end of mylar domes, and I have a feeling Monacor make a mylar dome, but almost anything will work, though anecdotally a 3/4" 88dB type is preferred. If I haven't lost my touch, the Celestion tweeters were quite low impedance, around 4 ohms DCR, using a 4uF/0.15mH/6uF filter. But not a biggie IMO.
Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter
Replacement diaphragm for tweeter celestion hf2001 t2936-celestion ditton 442 | eBay
Mylar plastic, I reckon. That clear plastic stuff that fizzy drinks bottles come in.
Metal is entirely different, more like the silvery tins your baked beans come in:
And for completeness a cloth-like soft dome, which is soft and dark in appearance:
I think ideally you want a mylar dome like the Vifa 19TD to preserve the tone, which relied on the grille cloth to tame the typical rising top end of mylar domes, and I have a feeling Monacor make a mylar dome, but almost anything will work, though anecdotally a 3/4" 88dB type is preferred. If I haven't lost my touch, the Celestion tweeters were quite low impedance, around 4 ohms DCR, using a 4uF/0.15mH/6uF filter. But not a biggie IMO.
Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter
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How's your French, Steve?
THe HF2001, according to this review,
Celestion Ditton 332 - Le forum Audiovintage
"est doté d'un dôme en plastique transparent protégé par une fine grille metallique."
i.e. "has a transparent plastic dome protected by a thin metal grille."
So, you are correct!
THe HF2001, according to this review,
Celestion Ditton 332 - Le forum Audiovintage
"est doté d'un dôme en plastique transparent protégé par une fine grille metallique."
i.e. "has a transparent plastic dome protected by a thin metal grille."
So, you are correct!
My French is OK, though I have occasionally made terrible mistakes in it. My confusion about the idiomatic "Encore, une biere" and "Une autre biere, mamselle" once led us into an obscure Belgian Trappist Beer by the 12th. bottle one night in Dieppe. It ended in great confusion. But friendly enough. Crazy town. 😀
I happen to know a bit about Celestion mylar tweeters, here on a £60 pair of Celestion Ditton 44 which I used to own:
As you can see, they came with a strange diffusor grille on the tweeter. No idea what it does. The speakers (being severely broken) went to the dump. But I have kept the grilles. Apparently worth £40 on eBay. So not a dead loss. 😀
My nephew has a pair of Celestion Ditton 33:
Very fine speakers. Advice depends on circumstances:
Mr. Troels Gravesen surprised himself with a goodish 3-way:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic
I'll stop there. 🙂
I happen to know a bit about Celestion mylar tweeters, here on a £60 pair of Celestion Ditton 44 which I used to own:
As you can see, they came with a strange diffusor grille on the tweeter. No idea what it does. The speakers (being severely broken) went to the dump. But I have kept the grilles. Apparently worth £40 on eBay. So not a dead loss. 😀
My nephew has a pair of Celestion Ditton 33:
Very fine speakers. Advice depends on circumstances:
Mr. Troels Gravesen surprised himself with a goodish 3-way:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic
I'll stop there. 🙂
Replaced hf2001s with seas 19TFF1.
Sound is not the same anymore. High frequencies sounds shrilled and thin, lost their depth. Sometimes sound becomes disturbing and speakers becomes hard to listen.
I didn't do anything to crossover. Should I?
Sound is not the same anymore. High frequencies sounds shrilled and thin, lost their depth. Sometimes sound becomes disturbing and speakers becomes hard to listen.
I didn't do anything to crossover. Should I?
I think you should examine the crossover.
Are all the components original or have any been replaced?
I'm wondering if perhaps a faulty capacitor could have caused the demise of your original tweeter and is now messing up the sound of your replacement?
Are all the components original or have any been replaced?
I'm wondering if perhaps a faulty capacitor could have caused the demise of your original tweeter and is now messing up the sound of your replacement?
Crossovers recapped a year ago with alcaps except tweeter caps which has been replaced with claritycap esa series.
Before seas replacements and failed hf2001, sound was balanced and high frequencies sounds well defined. Now with seas replacements high frequencies sounds thin. Crash cymbals sounds like splash. Ride cymbals sounds like hihat....
Before seas replacements and failed hf2001, sound was balanced and high frequencies sounds well defined. Now with seas replacements high frequencies sounds thin. Crash cymbals sounds like splash. Ride cymbals sounds like hihat....
You'll need a new crossover.
Or contact Coles Acoustics about a proper replacement.
If you have one good original, measure its DCR.
Originally these were often 16ohms, as well as 8. Rarely seen a 4ohm, I'm thinking it was in a B&W.
Or contact Coles Acoustics about a proper replacement.
If you have one good original, measure its DCR.
Originally these were often 16ohms, as well as 8. Rarely seen a 4ohm, I'm thinking it was in a B&W.
For the Seas, you'll need a new crossover, as you report strange sound with the original.
By new, I mean a new design, not a replacement of the original.
The dome material is similar, but the motor is not, so behavior is different.
By new, I mean a new design, not a replacement of the original.
The dome material is similar, but the motor is not, so behavior is different.
starbender, please add your country to your visible nick. It helps with being able to judge what is available in your country.
What is your current tweeter crossover? You must at least know the current capacitor values.
Thirdly, see if you can measure the DC resistance of the old HF2001 if one still works as Boswald says.
Have we established what the dome of the HF2001 is made of? Different dome materials affect the tone. Ferrofluid is always audible to my ears too. I usually remove it.
The SEAS 19TFF1 is a cheap and cheerful tweeter but competent enough I think. This is the metal 19TAF/G version:
It is easy enough to take a tweeter down in level, tonal problems harder to judge without hearing them.
See that red 2.2R resistor? That is adjustable for loudness:
Restoring Monitor Audio R300 bookshelf speakers.
What is your current tweeter crossover? You must at least know the current capacitor values.
Thirdly, see if you can measure the DC resistance of the old HF2001 if one still works as Boswald says.
Have we established what the dome of the HF2001 is made of? Different dome materials affect the tone. Ferrofluid is always audible to my ears too. I usually remove it.
The SEAS 19TFF1 is a cheap and cheerful tweeter but competent enough I think. This is the metal 19TAF/G version:
It is easy enough to take a tweeter down in level, tonal problems harder to judge without hearing them.
See that red 2.2R resistor? That is adjustable for loudness:
Restoring Monitor Audio R300 bookshelf speakers.
Steve I'm from istanbul. Sadly options are limited in my country, I have to outsource what I need.
Check the attached crossover pdf file recieved from KEF.
I replaced old original elcap capacitors with alcap caps except tweeter network. I used polypropylene caps at tweeter network.
C1 =60uf
C2=16uf
C3=6uf
C4=12uf
C5=3.3uf
C6=8uf
C7=1.5uf
R1&R2 is around 8.2ohm
Working HF2001 tweeter measures 7.4ohm.
Tonally old hf2001 had warm and not disturbing high frequencies. But seas high frequencies are IMO lower in dB and higher in fq. Result is hardly natural hf response with too crisp tone.
Check the attached crossover pdf file recieved from KEF.
I replaced old original elcap capacitors with alcap caps except tweeter network. I used polypropylene caps at tweeter network.
C1 =60uf
C2=16uf
C3=6uf
C4=12uf
C5=3.3uf
C6=8uf
C7=1.5uf
R1&R2 is around 8.2ohm
Working HF2001 tweeter measures 7.4ohm.
Tonally old hf2001 had warm and not disturbing high frequencies. But seas high frequencies are IMO lower in dB and higher in fq. Result is hardly natural hf response with too crisp tone.
I'd love to visit Istanbul. Full of ancient wonders. 😀
Good work there. What we seem to have is this sort of thing on the tweeter:
Probably works like this around 4kHz:
Good three ways work like this in theory:
But the second capacitor is 8uF. Coil must be about 0.20mH. No 2.2R level adjust resistor fitted, so I'd expect it to sound loud. What Celestion have done there is add a 1.5uH/ 8.2R Zobel to tame the lively top end of the tweeter. That is probably too much high frequency rolloff for the flattish SEAS 19TFF1. Try removing the 1.5uF capacitor or take out the 8.2R. Might restore the top end a little. But hard to say.
Good work there. What we seem to have is this sort of thing on the tweeter:
Probably works like this around 4kHz:
Good three ways work like this in theory:
But the second capacitor is 8uF. Coil must be about 0.20mH. No 2.2R level adjust resistor fitted, so I'd expect it to sound loud. What Celestion have done there is add a 1.5uH/ 8.2R Zobel to tame the lively top end of the tweeter. That is probably too much high frequency rolloff for the flattish SEAS 19TFF1. Try removing the 1.5uF capacitor or take out the 8.2R. Might restore the top end a little. But hard to say.
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Yep 😉 Full of ancient wonders!
As I heard from collegues from UK things goes better and better each day. Sadly in here things get worst everyday (covid related!).
Wait 'till it's under control for visit 😀
Thanks for the information, appreciated.
In the meantime I wrote to falcon acoustics and they're suggesting lpad network at the crossover for -2dB decrease! (1.6ohm&33ohm)
I'm really confused, should I aim for lowering the HF response with Lpad or increase the output of the tweeter by removing cap or resistor.
As I heard from collegues from UK things goes better and better each day. Sadly in here things get worst everyday (covid related!).
Wait 'till it's under control for visit 😀
Thanks for the information, appreciated.
In the meantime I wrote to falcon acoustics and they're suggesting lpad network at the crossover for -2dB decrease! (1.6ohm&33ohm)
I'm really confused, should I aim for lowering the HF response with Lpad or increase the output of the tweeter by removing cap or resistor.
I would try Steve's suggestion of removing (breaking the path of) the Zobel network first - just to gauge the audible effect.
Attenuation can be done with a single resistor if necessary. Look how Steve has positioned a 2.2 ohm resistor in his example tweeter circuits.
Attenuation can be done with a single resistor if necessary. Look how Steve has positioned a 2.2 ohm resistor in his example tweeter circuits.