Peter Daniel said:
I think my previous post needs some further explanation. I'm pleasantly surprised that the forum is matured enough and nobody came heavy on me with lectures.
For clarification, I'm not advocating not using of safety guards, and I recommend using them to everybody who is just getting acquainted with power tools, to all untrained workers or to people who want to be on a safe side.
Up to a year ago (or two) I didn't even imagine I could be using a table saw for metal cutting and it always seemed like a frightening experience to me.
However, after doing it few times, it actually seemed safer than cutting wood, as metal is not prone to bending as much as wood and stopping the blade while cutting has less chances. I also never noticed metal burning (which is often a case with a wood).
Cutting metal is different, as the tolerances required are ususally much tighter and the sizes of cut pieces are much smaller. I like to see the beginning of the cut, as this gives me the idea if it's going the right way. This is not possible with safety guard in place. If I want to see it, I would have to lift the guard with one hand and keep the piece of metal with the other hand (while cutting) and this is much more dangerous, as I have less control.
When cutting metal, I feed it forward first, but then I often pull the piece back for extra smoothing action (of the balde) and this again is much more difficult with a safety guard on. I'm not mentioning the scratching of the metal surface that may occur when guard is riding on a well finished metal surface (of the material being cut).
Without the guard, it is also much easier to measure the distance from blade to the fence (for proper cut size) and when guard is installed, it becomes really inconvenient, especially when you have to do it frequently. I sometimes cut small pieces of 1/2 square bar, and for pices that small a lot of force have to be applied to actually lift the saftey guard. This may cause you to loose proper alignment and inferrior cut as a result.
There is also a chance of the guard locking or preventing moving of the cut piece, and when doing precision/final cuts this may ruin your piece, as you will never switch off the motor quick enough and even if you do, the stopping action of the blade makes the cut uneven.
However, the main reason I don't use guards is that I always want to see the blade in its cutting action. This allows me to control the force of feed and I can quickly evaluate any possible risks and the required, proper acton.
The only protection that I can think of when using safety gurad is protection for your fingers so they don't get in a way of moving blade. Well, for me it is a calculated risk, and I just try to keep my hands in a safe distance.
I strongly advice to always use sharp blades, as this may cause bigger danger and what's most important, use the safety glasses, or preferrably a face shield (especially when working with metal).
If you feel that safety guard is required and makes you feel better about your safety, by all means use it.
But please don't critisize those who choose not to use it, as for them it may create the same "feeling" of safety. I know, because I'm such a person.
And thats where using the right tool for the job comes in. Square hollow tube cut off in small peices even large is suposed to be cut with a drop saw, never a table saw, preferably a lathe or a power hacksaw for solid material. Angle should also never be cut long ways.
SAFTEY WARNING!!!!
When using Carbide Tipped Saw Blades on aluminium be very alert! They have the risk of shattering when they grap onto the material, posing a very serious threat to the human body!With or without Guards, Saftey Goggles/ Face Sheild must be worn at all times when the machinery is on! A clear working space is also advised, or injuries may result.
Trev
ace3000_1 said:
I actually meant mitre saw, as this is indeed the best way to cut this type of material. Using additional stop block allows to cut all pieces to the same size. However, when using the additional block, don't lift the blade before it stops as this will pull your piece.
Mitre saw is another tool that I decided to remove safety guard. It just seems less safe to me when the guard is between me and whatever I cut. It's almost like cutting blindfolded.
I would never recommend removing safety guard on circular saw (it would be plain stupid) and on the grinder. Those two tools simply NEED the safety guard in place.
Aluminum Cutting Safety
Getting a kickback in Aluminum or Wood is no different. I was always taught to stand off to the side of the piece you are cutting. That way when the inevitable kickback does occur it will miss you and only put a dent in the wall. If you use the anti-kickback fingers, remember thatthey don't work so well with harder surfaces like metal.
The tape idea is great, and so is wax. Depends on how you want to clean it when you are done. The adhesive on the tape acts as a lubricant and prevents the aluminum from galling on the carbide teeth. It also reduces the chance of kickback.
In my shop I use wax for routering aluminum and duct tape for cuts on the table saw. Being wider I tend to miss the cutline less with duct tape. A little acetone and all residue is gone.
Duct tape is also great to put on your fingertips to avoid cutting them on the edges of your workpieces.
Scott
Getting a kickback in Aluminum or Wood is no different. I was always taught to stand off to the side of the piece you are cutting. That way when the inevitable kickback does occur it will miss you and only put a dent in the wall. If you use the anti-kickback fingers, remember thatthey don't work so well with harder surfaces like metal.
The tape idea is great, and so is wax. Depends on how you want to clean it when you are done. The adhesive on the tape acts as a lubricant and prevents the aluminum from galling on the carbide teeth. It also reduces the chance of kickback.
In my shop I use wax for routering aluminum and duct tape for cuts on the table saw. Being wider I tend to miss the cutline less with duct tape. A little acetone and all residue is gone.
Duct tape is also great to put on your fingertips to avoid cutting them on the edges of your workpieces.
Scott
Routering Aluminum
Routering Aluminum isn't very difficult if you 1) have good carbide bits, and 2) set up a jig to hold the workpiece and guide the router base. I typically use the collets and a guide template made of good quality 1/4" plywood. The router is NOT good at hogging alot of material all at once so I typically cut close to the edges with a Sabre saw or similar and then use the router to trim the last 1/8"" or so. Key to being succesful is using wax shavings on the surface. The wax melts and is pulled into the cut which keeps the cutter lubricated and free of build up. This is a good technique for cutting out ventilation holes in the chassis and for complex shapes. I would send a photo of some of the jigs, but they are in boxes for the next month or so as I move to NJ. You can see some of the results back on a thread for my 100Watt AlephX monoblocks. The cap bussbars anf the chassis top plate were all done on the router.
Using the jig keeps all of the parts from moving and is safe. It is important however, to clean up immediatley afterwards as the shavings are wicked sharp.
Scott
Routering Aluminum isn't very difficult if you 1) have good carbide bits, and 2) set up a jig to hold the workpiece and guide the router base. I typically use the collets and a guide template made of good quality 1/4" plywood. The router is NOT good at hogging alot of material all at once so I typically cut close to the edges with a Sabre saw or similar and then use the router to trim the last 1/8"" or so. Key to being succesful is using wax shavings on the surface. The wax melts and is pulled into the cut which keeps the cutter lubricated and free of build up. This is a good technique for cutting out ventilation holes in the chassis and for complex shapes. I would send a photo of some of the jigs, but they are in boxes for the next month or so as I move to NJ. You can see some of the results back on a thread for my 100Watt AlephX monoblocks. The cap bussbars anf the chassis top plate were all done on the router.
Using the jig keeps all of the parts from moving and is safe. It is important however, to clean up immediatley afterwards as the shavings are wicked sharp.
Scott
Yes, using templates is the best (and most safe) way of routing aluminum. Here's a link to an older project I did, using router on aluminum:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=74127#post74127
As always, wear safety glasses
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=74127#post74127
As always, wear safety glasses
Peter that is very similar to my table. I fact I use the same router in that application. I resort to my trusty Porter Cable for jobs requiring more complex shapes. I've used both on aluminum up to 1/4"thick. The thicker the material the more need for cutting lubricant to keep it from galling.
Scott.
I find the "tinsel" is a great way of keeping the wife out of MY area.
Scott.
I find the "tinsel" is a great way of keeping the wife out of MY area.
I managed to cut 1" copper without problem (1 x 2" bar). So cutting 1" aluminum does not present problem either. Sharp blade is a must, as well wax as lubricant could help. Though I was not using any lubricant yet.
I also did cut 2"dia. aluminum rod on a table saw. It was too short to make it safe on a mitre saw so I decided to do it on a table saw. A special jig was used to secure the rod though.
I also did cut 2"dia. aluminum rod on a table saw. It was too short to make it safe on a mitre saw so I decided to do it on a table saw. A special jig was used to secure the rod though.
sorry to bring back a dead thread...
I was cutting some 1/2" aluminum on my table saw this morning and quickly grew weary of the alu chips hitting my face shield and spattering ALL OVER the place. As I was working I was thinking of the best way of containing this mess and raising the safety factor as well.
I had one of those cheapo vinyl covered chipboard bookcases I have been meaning to cut up and get rid of right there next to me. I found that if you place a piece of this material directly on top of the aluminum you are cutting, with the blade low enough to not cut all the way through the chipboard, not a single chip flies. The vinyl and wood dust seemed to smooth the cut pretty well too. It added stability/mass and reduced chattering, greatly improving the cut. I bet regular chipboard would work just fine too...
P.S. this is obviously not an excuse to not wear safety glasses.
I was cutting some 1/2" aluminum on my table saw this morning and quickly grew weary of the alu chips hitting my face shield and spattering ALL OVER the place. As I was working I was thinking of the best way of containing this mess and raising the safety factor as well.
I had one of those cheapo vinyl covered chipboard bookcases I have been meaning to cut up and get rid of right there next to me. I found that if you place a piece of this material directly on top of the aluminum you are cutting, with the blade low enough to not cut all the way through the chipboard, not a single chip flies. The vinyl and wood dust seemed to smooth the cut pretty well too. It added stability/mass and reduced chattering, greatly improving the cut. I bet regular chipboard would work just fine too...
P.S. this is obviously not an excuse to not wear safety glasses.
I hope I'm not repeating anything here. I tried to read the whole thread. But I think it's well worth adding to anyone out there contemplating a mitre or table saw for cutting aluminum that a carbide tipped non-ferrous blade is highly recommended. It has more teeth - like a finish blade - but more importantly, the hook angle is at or close to 0 degrees. It is the more aggressive hook angle on common table saw blades that can cause feed problems, tip breakage, and finish roughness on metal. I use a non ferrous blade on my compound miter saw since I cut non ferrous primarily on it. It does a good enough job on occasional wood that I don't need to switch.
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