Another question 🙂
I have just tried to purchase a pair of Fostex 167Es from Wilmslow Audio but they don’t have any in stock, and they might not be receiving another delivery until sometime in January. I’m sure this wont be a problem, but does anyone know of an alternative supplier in the UK?
Thanks
Richard
I have just tried to purchase a pair of Fostex 167Es from Wilmslow Audio but they don’t have any in stock, and they might not be receiving another delivery until sometime in January. I’m sure this wont be a problem, but does anyone know of an alternative supplier in the UK?
Thanks
Richard
There aren't any, unfortunately. Wilmslow (who I refuse point-blank ever to have anything to do with ever again) are the sole UK distributer at the moment AFAIK.
Try www.spectrumaudio.de It's in German but Wolfgang speaks excellent English.
Try www.spectrumaudio.de It's in German but Wolfgang speaks excellent English.
Scottmoose said:There aren't any, unfortunately. Wilmslow (who I refuse point-blank ever to have anything to do with ever again) are the sole UK distributer at the moment AFAIK.
If Tripmaster doesn't want to go whole hog, maybe we could arrange to get you some FE167eN Scott, and that would free your FE167 up?
dave
Scottmoose said:Sounds like that could be a plan. 🙂
That’s a possibility
'I love it when a plan comes together'😉
I am going to send an email to Audio Spectrum tonight, so I should hopefully have a reply by tomorrow…I will let you know.
Scott why don’t you send me a PM when you have thought of a price?
Richard
Scottmoose said:Well, I would, but you don't appear to have PM turned on mate... 😉
I do
Tripmaster said:I do
Unlike most boards PM here means you have your email visible. The PM in the control panel is a placeholder for the internal private messaging that has been purposely turned off.
dave
Rather than repeating yourself, could you direct me to a link containing general speaker construction techniques?
I have a biscuit jointer and dowel jig, is there a recommended method of jointing plywood boards?
Thanks
Richard
I have a biscuit jointer and dowel jig, is there a recommended method of jointing plywood boards?
Thanks
Richard
Tripmaster said:is there a recommended method of jointing plywood boards?
I'm not actually allowed to build boxes, but most of ours are butt-joints heald together with carpenter's glue.
We are doing a prtototyping a flat-pak that uses bisquits as well, to remove the need for lots of clamps.
dave
planet10 said:
I'm not actually allowed to build boxes, but most of ours are butt-joints heald together with carpenter's glue.
We are doing a proto typing a flat-pak that uses biscuits as well, to remove the need for lots of clamps.
dave
Biscuits are handy for panel alignment while assembling, particularly multiple panels at one time - but they are no substitute for adequate clamping.
With today's wood glues, a cleanly machined butt joint is more than adequate for most domestic loudspeaker cabinets, whether MDF or plywood construction. Having worked in a commercial millwork/ cabinetry shop for over 15 yrs, we tend towards expediency - air powered brad nailing and/or wood screws are the order of the day. The holes can easily be filled prior to the finishing stages.
Moisture cured polyurethane or 2-part epoxy glues can certainly provide even more strength, but are definitely a pain to work with; - the PU's can swell enough to open and inadequately clamped joint, they both have longer cure times than yellow glue, and can irreparably stain raw faces, significantly complicating the finishing process.
chrisb said:
Biscuits are handy for panel alignment while assembling, particularly multiple panels at one time - but they are no substitute for adequate clamping.
With today's wood glues, a cleanly machined butt joint is more than adequate for most domestic loudspeaker cabinets, whether MDF or plywood construction. Having worked in a commercial millwork/ cabinetry shop for over 15 yrs, we tend towards expediency - air powered brad nailing and/or wood screws are the order of the day. The holes can easily be filled prior to the finishing stages.
Moisture cured polyurethane or 2-part epoxy glues can certainly provide even more strength, but are definitely a pain to work with; - the PU's can swell enough to open and inadequately clamped joint, they both have longer cure times than yellow glue, and can irreparably stain raw faces, significantly complicating the finishing process.
Thanks again Dave, very helpful.
I have a few days off next week so I will hopefully have some time to pick up the wood 🙂
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