I have most of these components to install in my 1971 Blazer.
Is the Arc KS900.6 going to be enough to power (2) Exile 4ohm subs?
If it is, how would you wire ?
ARC Audio KS900.6
Power output RMS @ 4 ohms: 4 x 75W + 2 x 150W, 2 x 250W + 1 x 550W bridged @ 4 ohms.
Head Unit - Pioneer DEHP6900UB
Built-In Power Amplifier Yes
Built-In Amplifier RMS Power 4 x 22 Watts RMS
Built-In Amplifier Power 4 x 50 Watt
Front Speakers - ARC Audio ARC6000 components
Rear Speakers- Hertz HCX165
Thanks.
Is the Arc KS900.6 going to be enough to power (2) Exile 4ohm subs?
If it is, how would you wire ?
ARC Audio KS900.6
Power output RMS @ 4 ohms: 4 x 75W + 2 x 150W, 2 x 250W + 1 x 550W bridged @ 4 ohms.
Head Unit - Pioneer DEHP6900UB
Built-In Power Amplifier Yes
Built-In Amplifier RMS Power 4 x 22 Watts RMS
Built-In Amplifier Power 4 x 50 Watt
Front Speakers - ARC Audio ARC6000 components
Rear Speakers- Hertz HCX165
Thanks.
Head Unit - Pioneer DEHP6900UB
Built-In Power Amplifier Yes
Built-In Amplifier RMS Power 4 x 22 Watts RMS
Built-In Amplifier Power 4 x 50 Watt
This is more like 15 watts IF you are lucky and are fine for OEM speakers (because stock head units are 5 watters!).
Dont use the head units power and get an amp. Just because the front stage speakers are smaller does not mean they dont need power.
IMO:
If you have 2 quality amps, at 100 and 200 watts I have found that it sounds better with the 100 on the subs and the 200 on the mids-tweets (this depends on speakers as well).
Good luck.
Built-In Power Amplifier Yes
Built-In Amplifier RMS Power 4 x 22 Watts RMS
Built-In Amplifier Power 4 x 50 Watt
This is more like 15 watts IF you are lucky and are fine for OEM speakers (because stock head units are 5 watters!).
Dont use the head units power and get an amp. Just because the front stage speakers are smaller does not mean they dont need power.
IMO:
If you have 2 quality amps, at 100 and 200 watts I have found that it sounds better with the 100 on the subs and the 200 on the mids-tweets (this depends on speakers as well).
Good luck.
Jonny Hotnuts said:IMO:
If you have 2 quality amps, at 100 and 200 watts I have found that it sounds better with the 100 on the subs and the 200 on the mids-tweets (this depends on speakers as well).
depends on the type of music you listen to as well. 😉
option 1:
2 x 250W ... to the front speakers and back speakers, run front to back in parrallel....switch amps crossover to high pass, with the amp high passed it should be able to handle a 2ohm load when at 250 x 2...only high passed, not full range, it will overheat.
option 2:
if the amp overheats, run the back speakers off the decks amp.
when hooking up the rear speakers experiment with phase, simply reverse the +/- wires per rear seaker until the midbass sounds the tightest, you may want to play a song with strong midbass when doing this... do one rear speaker at a time.
550x1 to subs, but this depends if you have dual voice coil or single voice coil...you will need dual voice coil to match the 4 ohm rating of the amp... you can usually exceed the manufacturers ohm rating with mid/hi's...but not with subs, they draw more current...
if they are dual voice coil, series the subs coils, then parallel them together.
if your subs are single voice coil run them 2x150 at 4 ohms per sub.
2 x 250W ... to the front speakers and back speakers, run front to back in parrallel....switch amps crossover to high pass, with the amp high passed it should be able to handle a 2ohm load when at 250 x 2...only high passed, not full range, it will overheat.
option 2:
if the amp overheats, run the back speakers off the decks amp.
when hooking up the rear speakers experiment with phase, simply reverse the +/- wires per rear seaker until the midbass sounds the tightest, you may want to play a song with strong midbass when doing this... do one rear speaker at a time.
550x1 to subs, but this depends if you have dual voice coil or single voice coil...you will need dual voice coil to match the 4 ohm rating of the amp... you can usually exceed the manufacturers ohm rating with mid/hi's...but not with subs, they draw more current...
if they are dual voice coil, series the subs coils, then parallel them together.
if your subs are single voice coil run them 2x150 at 4 ohms per sub.
I listen to mostly rock (U-2, Springsteen etc.) and jazz.
I am not looking to rattle the windows, but get the best sound quality I can from my single amp (Arc KS900.6) if I can.
I have not bought the subs yet.
The Exile 10's are 4 ohm single voice coil. The reason I am looking at these is that they have had good reviews and are shallow.
I want to fit the sub or subs under my rear bench seat and have only around 5-6" of space.
Thanks.
I am not looking to rattle the windows, but get the best sound quality I can from my single amp (Arc KS900.6) if I can.
I have not bought the subs yet.
The Exile 10's are 4 ohm single voice coil. The reason I am looking at these is that they have had good reviews and are shallow.
I want to fit the sub or subs under my rear bench seat and have only around 5-6" of space.
Thanks.
depends on the type of music you listen to as well
Also depends on the efficiency of the subs. They may need the extra power.
It will be easy to swap speaker wires at the amp and try it both ways. The main thing is to not bother powering anything with the head unit. It would be more of a pain to rewire if you're not happy with the results.
Tim
here is what i would do ...
run the front speakers on 2 ch of the amp the rear speakers on the other 2 ch
and the subs on the last 2 ch
thats going to give you the safest load and the amp will like to be ran at 4 ohms
you have a 6ch amp there is no reason not to use them in this fashion.
i think this will be the best power disterbution in the car for this setup.
if you need more power to the front then bridge each speaker to the 4 ch amp. and run the rears off the deck as was said.
run the front speakers on 2 ch of the amp the rear speakers on the other 2 ch
and the subs on the last 2 ch
thats going to give you the safest load and the amp will like to be ran at 4 ohms
you have a 6ch amp there is no reason not to use them in this fashion.
i think this will be the best power disterbution in the car for this setup.
if you need more power to the front then bridge each speaker to the 4 ch amp. and run the rears off the deck as was said.
For my .02, I'd hook the 6ch up and see what happens. If it does not work then I'd bridge it to the fronts and run the rears, then get a class D for the subs assuming the arc is not. If the arc is D on subs or maybe anyway, if that is not the thing to do I'd get another 2ch amp for highs and run the arc bridged on the other set of highs. The class D just saves me power hassles.
I never use HU power unless I have to, or it is a stock replacement type system that will be played as such. I did that once in a small sports car that had no room and used a powered tube sub. It sounded ok for what it was. I was traveling at the time and honestly there just was not any place to put two amps and I didn't have a 4ch, was not going to buy an amp at the time. It did have 6 speakers stock that sounded nice. Why they can't place speakers in some cars is beyond me.
I never use HU power unless I have to, or it is a stock replacement type system that will be played as such. I did that once in a small sports car that had no room and used a powered tube sub. It sounded ok for what it was. I was traveling at the time and honestly there just was not any place to put two amps and I didn't have a 4ch, was not going to buy an amp at the time. It did have 6 speakers stock that sounded nice. Why they can't place speakers in some cars is beyond me.
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