Hi there,
I have a 15" earthquake sub-BALLS 15 and am trying build a box for it. Can anyone please advise me as to what is the best possible enclosure to get low bass, without much distortion.
I currently own a 700 watt ULTIMATE amp and i built a box with the given dimensions on their website but it does not sound as good as it should. Can anyone rescue plz and also do I have to build the box with heavy bracing will this help.
Thanx,
Tony
I have a 15" earthquake sub-BALLS 15 and am trying build a box for it. Can anyone please advise me as to what is the best possible enclosure to get low bass, without much distortion.
I currently own a 700 watt ULTIMATE amp and i built a box with the given dimensions on their website but it does not sound as good as it should. Can anyone rescue plz and also do I have to build the box with heavy bracing will this help.
Thanx,
Tony
Electrical/mechanical parameters:
Revc (DC voice coil resistance)=1.500 Ohm
both coils wired in parallel
F o (resonance frequency)=33.6646HZ
Sd (piston area) =0.0890 sqM
BL (Flux* length) =15.3757 TM
SP Lo (spl at 1W) =91.5581 dB
Qms =8.7092
Qes =0.3720
Qts =0.3568
Vas =90.6969 Ltrs. 3.2 ft
Cms =80.6333 uM/N
Mms =277.1905 Grams
Voice coil dia =3 inch
Xmax =0.98 inch
magnet 90 oz
rms =500 Watts
driver displacement (outside)= 0.16 ft3
driver displacement(inside)=0.30 ft 3
thanx,
Tony
Revc (DC voice coil resistance)=1.500 Ohm
both coils wired in parallel
F o (resonance frequency)=33.6646HZ
Sd (piston area) =0.0890 sqM
BL (Flux* length) =15.3757 TM
SP Lo (spl at 1W) =91.5581 dB
Qms =8.7092
Qes =0.3720
Qts =0.3568
Vas =90.6969 Ltrs. 3.2 ft
Cms =80.6333 uM/N
Mms =277.1905 Grams
Voice coil dia =3 inch
Xmax =0.98 inch
magnet 90 oz
rms =500 Watts
driver displacement (outside)= 0.16 ft3
driver displacement(inside)=0.30 ft 3
thanx,
Tony
Hi there,
one more thing i had visited their website
www.earthquakesound.com/balls121.htm
but i don't understand if the box dimensions are for the outside or the inside and also it says the vb is 2.5 ft 3
thanx,
Tony
one more thing i had visited their website
www.earthquakesound.com/balls121.htm
but i don't understand if the box dimensions are for the outside or the inside and also it says the vb is 2.5 ft 3
thanx,Tony
With a medium Fs and low Vas, this driver appears to be designed more for a car or DJ app. than HI-FI/HT. A max flat alignment yields a ~38Hz F3 and it's not wise IMO to tune a medium Q driver below ~Fs*0.707, or a considerably rolled off ~23.8Hz Fb in this case.
If trading mid bass efficiency for LF extension is acceptable, then let me know what, if any, cab size restrictions you have and the Fb desired.
WRT their designs, the fact that they list any ripple means they're too underdamped for good SQ, so you're right, they aren't what you'd call optimum. Factor in VC heating when cranking it, and they will become downright 'boomy' by my standards. On the short term, you can add a vent extension to raise F3/lower Fb for better transient response on yours.
GM
If trading mid bass efficiency for LF extension is acceptable, then let me know what, if any, cab size restrictions you have and the Fb desired.
WRT their designs, the fact that they list any ripple means they're too underdamped for good SQ, so you're right, they aren't what you'd call optimum. Factor in VC heating when cranking it, and they will become downright 'boomy' by my standards. On the short term, you can add a vent extension to raise F3/lower Fb for better transient response on yours.
GM
Thanx for that GM . i tried the port but it still does'nt sound that clean.
is there anyway you can let me know whats the best possible sub enclosure dimensions for this sub and of course as you mentioned it is designed for a car.
Thanx,
Tony
is there anyway you can let me know whats the best possible sub enclosure dimensions for this sub and of course as you mentioned it is designed for a car.
Thanx,
Tony
Well, let's see, you didn't answer my question, gave no insight into what you mean by 'clean' Vs what you're hearing (for all I know the driver may be defective in some way), how much you lowered Fb with your existing design (or which one you built), what the app. is, etc., so for now all I'm going to say is that short of sticking it in a large closet sized basshorn, the best performing cab design WRT 'clean' is a sealed cab of at least 10*Vas. This means Fb = ~Fs and Qtc = ~Qts, with no LF efficiency of consequence.
I see I forgot to answer one of your Q's too...... subs can't be too massive or too well braced, so to keep weight semi-reasonable, it's best to go stiff and raise the cab's resonance above the sub's intended BW. Braced 13 ply Baltic Birch, Appleply, or no-void marine ply is the Hot Ticket. If you prefer to go massive, until it's made out of many inches thick concrete or lead you're 'chasing your tail', so constrained layer damping is your best option. At minimum, I recommend a double walled 19mm MDF 'sandwich' with 30lb roofing felt or other lossy material to ensure adequate damping.
GM
I see I forgot to answer one of your Q's too...... subs can't be too massive or too well braced, so to keep weight semi-reasonable, it's best to go stiff and raise the cab's resonance above the sub's intended BW. Braced 13 ply Baltic Birch, Appleply, or no-void marine ply is the Hot Ticket. If you prefer to go massive, until it's made out of many inches thick concrete or lead you're 'chasing your tail', so constrained layer damping is your best option. At minimum, I recommend a double walled 19mm MDF 'sandwich' with 30lb roofing felt or other lossy material to ensure adequate damping.
GM
I believe Earthquake is mostly built for the car market. They are highly regarded for the car market.
Can you tell us how large a box you can put up with? I think that sealed, ported or Passive Radiator, you probably need to EQ this one way or another.
One thing to remember-changes of 10% or so in box volume don't affect things that much, so whatever you decide, get it as close as you can and relax-one little difference in the box is not going to throw everything off. 🙂
Can you tell us how large a box you can put up with? I think that sealed, ported or Passive Radiator, you probably need to EQ this one way or another.
That is the internal space in the box. In most cases, what shape you choose to make the box is farily irrelevant, unless it is a long pipe. You should subract about 4 liters for the speaker and whatever the port is, if it is a large one.
One thing to remember-changes of 10% or so in box volume don't affect things that much, so whatever you decide, get it as close as you can and relax-one little difference in the box is not going to throw everything off. 🙂
clean
i don`t know if this will help you.but i built a box of 8 6.5jl wo`s
for my chevy truck regular cab.put in a orion 2100 to power them.
with the windows up it sounded muffed and rough it only hit 152db.but with the widows down the sound cleared up and it hit 160db.
so i guess what i`m trying to say is open a window or your trunck and see what happens.i think you can get to much speaker mass for your mobil audio.
i don`t know if this will help you.but i built a box of 8 6.5jl wo`s
for my chevy truck regular cab.put in a orion 2100 to power them.
with the windows up it sounded muffed and rough it only hit 152db.but with the widows down the sound cleared up and it hit 160db.
so i guess what i`m trying to say is open a window or your trunck and see what happens.i think you can get to much speaker mass for your mobil audio.
i built the box according to their web site specs but it still sounds jarring when i crank it up.i visited a local car audio store and heard the same subs sound way much better and also i found that it in fact had smaller enclosure then the ones i had made.they were dual of course..
I am really confused now is it something to do with the amp?
plz help, i am trying to get as clean ,low bass and also good spl but in vain.
Thanx,
Tony
I am really confused now is it something to do with the amp?
plz help, i am trying to get as clean ,low bass and also good spl but in vain.
Thanx,
Tony
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