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Help with ST-70 variant hum in both channels

Would that be testing pins 1/8 (they're tied together) to ground? I get 10 ohms there. (Ground connection is via auto-bias board.)
Pins 2 and 7 are the heater pins on EL34. Pin 1 is Grid 3 and 8 the Cathode. You would expect 10 Ohms between the Cathode and ground due to the sensing resistors on the auto-bias.

If you are talking about the resistance between the 0 and 8 Ohm taps on the output you will have a fraction of an Ohm.
 
Pins 2 and 7 are the heater pins on EL34. Pin 1 is Grid 3 and 8 the Cathode. You would expect 10 Ohms between the Cathode and ground due to the sensing resistors on the auto-bias.

If you are talking about the resistance between the 0 and 8 Ohm taps on the output you will have a fraction of an Ohm.
Indeed I have 0.4-0.5 ohm between the 8-ohm tap and ground.

I am just at a loss as to what to try now.
 
(Ground connection is via auto-bias board.)
Ross,
I believe @nerdorama and @KeesB meant the AC grounding of the twee heater coils via two capacitors. Nerdorama spotted a potential missing connection as he explained in post #25.

Please check the resistance from your PCB ground to that star ground AND to the chassis. It appears that you have a new stainless steel chassis, and those had been known to be problematic in making a good ground connection with.
 
A simple way to determine if the power supply has excessive ripple: remove all four coupling capacitors to the output tubes.
Connect amp to speakers. Has the hum changed? If not, there may be excessive current being drawn from the power supply,
causing high ripple. Cause could be the "new" biasing circuit.

If the hum did stop, you likely have a marginal instability, causing oscillation.
Do check all the OT primary connections for wrong connections for the plate and screen.
OK, this will be very challenging because of how things are attached to the amp right now but maybe I have to find a way. Are the capacitors you're describing the film ones on the main board rather than electrolytics?
 
It appears to me that the two capacitors that provide an AC ground for the filaments are not connected on one side. Green with stripe to right but brown with stripe appears to be connecting to the center grounded tap of the strip. Might be just an illusion of the picture.
Good luck and happy hunting.
Hi there,

So those two capacitors are connected to the terminal strip so that one leg of each is connected to an outer terminal and the other leg of each (thus two legs) are connected to the center terminal. The brown with stripe is connected to one of the outside terminals and the green with stripe is connected to the other outside terminal. No wire is attached to the center. Are we talking about the same thing...just below the little rectangular PCB by the left channel RCA and speaker posts?
 
Ross,
I believe @nerdorama and @KeesB meant the AC grounding of the twee heater coils via two capacitors. Nerdorama spotted a potential missing connection as he explained in post #25.

Please check the resistance from your PCB ground to that star ground AND to the chassis. It appears that you have a new stainless steel chassis, and those had been known to be problematic in making a good ground connection with.
Oh, it's not a new chassis. It's from the 1960s! Just in great condition.

When I test, for example, ground from a circuit board to the ground pin of the plug that goes into the wall, I get no resistance on the ohmmeter so I think my ground connection on the chassis is OK.
 
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It’s odd you are having so much trouble. I’ve done a couple of VTA based St70’s for friends and they were dead quiet on 105-107dB horns.
man, i know. I really didn't expect this problem. I haven't built an amp before but I built a phono preamp that was nearly this complicated (with fewer wires though because tubes were all on PCBs) and it worked perfectly the first time.

I'm really at a loss. No idea what to try. I spent almost a month building this slowly and carefully and clearly messed something up (or have a bad part, but that seems less likely) and I'm unbelievably frustrated.
 
OK, so Francois told me to try something and I got what might be an interesting result:

So I don't know if this is an important datapoint but removing the center 6SN7 tube eliminates the hum. Does this give any of you experts ideas of what I should be looking for at this point? Does this datapoint eliminate things like ungrounded power tube heaters as possible hum sources, and many of the other things we've been looking at?

What do you all recommend I look at now?

p.s. I also tried swapping tubes to make sure it wasn't a problem with the actual tube that was in that spot and it made no difference...no hum without center tube.
 
Pulling the center tube breaks the feedback path. You might still have a phasing issue with the output transformer connections or the phase inverter connections to the output tubes. I had the same issue with one of the auto bias boards in my Mk2 Dynacos. The wiring diagram has the connections from the autobias board to the output tubes reversed and they were out of phase.