So if you want to go with the Tarkus TM combo, below is a xo for it matched to your cabinet info.
The 1st pic is the XSim results. The grey line is the simulated summed response I get for the original Tarkus 3-way and even though it doesn't match the measured FR of the original Tarkus perfectly that doesn't matter because it works as a representation of it, a facsimile if you will and as such, it becomes the target curve I am trying to match as I work with just the mid and the tweeter using the same original FR and impedance files and the same software programs. And the new TM version ends up pretty close to a perfect match.
Pic 2 is the actual measured response of the original Tarkus for reference sake.
You should try to keep the resistance of L2 as low as you can (.35ohm in my sim) so an iron core will work fine here. The resistance for L4 for my sim is also .35ohm. There is also a chance you might like to play with the level of the tweeter to suit your personal tastes. Increasing R4 will also increase the tweeter level.
The peerless mid woofer (also known as 830657) looks like it works well in 30L tuned to 45Hz with a 7x13.5cm port, flared at 1 end.
Let me know if you have any questions.
The 1st pic is the XSim results. The grey line is the simulated summed response I get for the original Tarkus 3-way and even though it doesn't match the measured FR of the original Tarkus perfectly that doesn't matter because it works as a representation of it, a facsimile if you will and as such, it becomes the target curve I am trying to match as I work with just the mid and the tweeter using the same original FR and impedance files and the same software programs. And the new TM version ends up pretty close to a perfect match.
Pic 2 is the actual measured response of the original Tarkus for reference sake.
You should try to keep the resistance of L2 as low as you can (.35ohm in my sim) so an iron core will work fine here. The resistance for L4 for my sim is also .35ohm. There is also a chance you might like to play with the level of the tweeter to suit your personal tastes. Increasing R4 will also increase the tweeter level.
The peerless mid woofer (also known as 830657) looks like it works well in 30L tuned to 45Hz with a 7x13.5cm port, flared at 1 end.
Let me know if you have any questions.
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Thank you so much for helping. I will definitely build them as soon as I can (probably early next year)
If you think you'll go with the Peerless/Vifa design, maybe consider using this Peerless instead.
Peerless by Tymphany SDS-160F25PR01-08 6-1/2" Paper Cone Woofer Speaker
Same dimensions, look, basic specs and frequency response, but this one has almost twice the Xmax (i.e. linear travel) of the 830657. I've listened to both in the same cabinet and they sound the same as far as I could tell (that is, very nice!) but the 160 will give you more headroom in the bass when you crank up the volume.
Nothing at all wrong with the 830657, of course, I like it. Parts Express looks like the only place to get the 160, so the cost of shipping may be prohibitive and it's another US$6.
Geoff
Peerless by Tymphany SDS-160F25PR01-08 6-1/2" Paper Cone Woofer Speaker
Same dimensions, look, basic specs and frequency response, but this one has almost twice the Xmax (i.e. linear travel) of the 830657. I've listened to both in the same cabinet and they sound the same as far as I could tell (that is, very nice!) but the 160 will give you more headroom in the bass when you crank up the volume.
Nothing at all wrong with the 830657, of course, I like it. Parts Express looks like the only place to get the 160, so the cost of shipping may be prohibitive and it's another US$6.
Geoff
Thanks for the suggestion. But even if I wanted to upgrade I am in Europe and i can't get things from parts express...Import charges would be too high... Thanks anyways.
It is really annoying when I see that prices on parts express are much lower then in Europe but that is just how it is...
It is really annoying when I see that prices on parts express are much lower then in Europe but that is just how it is...
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Yes, same in Oz: I bought the Peerless 160s when they were on sale, and the $A had yet to make its way down the toilet relative to the $US. Still, the shipping was very expensive, cost much more than the woofers.
I don't know the history behind these drivers and why they're not more widely available, but I think you'll be happy with the 830657s. I tested them in a two way with the VIFA BC25TG, a nice tweeter but not as good as the one you're looking at. The DX25 is $60 here, but only $20 at Parts Express.
Geoff
I don't know the history behind these drivers and why they're not more widely available, but I think you'll be happy with the 830657s. I tested them in a two way with the VIFA BC25TG, a nice tweeter but not as good as the one you're looking at. The DX25 is $60 here, but only $20 at Parts Express.
Geoff
Yeah prices for speakers are really messed up here...
I think that I don't need extra Xmax because I don't play music super loud most of the time.
I think that I don't need extra Xmax because I don't play music super loud most of the time.
OK I was looking at crossover components and i couldn't find exactly 24uf capacitor. I can either go for 22uf or 2x12uf. Also there is no 3.01mh inductor but there is 3.00mh (I think that won't make much difference).
And there is no 6 ohm resistors they are either over or under the values.
Also now I know why cheap speakers use single cap crossovers lol because proper crossover components cost quite a bit but that is fine i calculated around 40-50€ for both crossovers so not too bad.
And there is no 6 ohm resistors they are either over or under the values.
Also now I know why cheap speakers use single cap crossovers lol because proper crossover components cost quite a bit but that is fine i calculated around 40-50€ for both crossovers so not too bad.
Just in case:
Capacitors wired in parallel will add their values.
Resistors wired in series will add their values.
You have a tiny bit a wiggle room with the values of each component. R4 could be 5ohm for eg. and I'm pretty sure you won't notice a difference. 3mH vs 3.01mH is nothing to even think about worrying about. Get some extra 1ohm resistors too so you can adjust the tweeter level if you feel so inclined. Using 5ohm + 1ohm for R3 will also allow you to play with the tweeter level too by removing 1ohm and dropping the series R value down to 5ohm.
Yea, 40-50€ for both xo's doesn't sound too bad at all for the price of the drivers that you are using.
Capacitors wired in parallel will add their values.
Resistors wired in series will add their values.
You have a tiny bit a wiggle room with the values of each component. R4 could be 5ohm for eg. and I'm pretty sure you won't notice a difference. 3mH vs 3.01mH is nothing to even think about worrying about. Get some extra 1ohm resistors too so you can adjust the tweeter level if you feel so inclined. Using 5ohm + 1ohm for R3 will also allow you to play with the tweeter level too by removing 1ohm and dropping the series R value down to 5ohm.
Yea, 40-50€ for both xo's doesn't sound too bad at all for the price of the drivers that you are using.