SB16PFC
I've used it with the VIFA BC25TG tweeter in Michael Chua's "Lark" and it has also been used in a kit with the SB26ST. I really like its sound.
Geoff
I've used it with the VIFA BC25TG tweeter in Michael Chua's "Lark" and it has also been used in a kit with the SB26ST. I really like its sound.
Geoff
OK for now a "budget" option is either SB Acoustics or Omens Audio. As far as "not so budget" I will still look around a bit. I think max will be around 60-70 euro per driver but for now Omens Audio is really getting my attention. What would be a good tuning freqency for Omens Audio and how does it compare to Sb Acoustics option. Thanks everyone. And if you have a suggestion feel free to leave it.
Actually now might be a good time to ask what you plan on doing for the xo.
Do you know how to design one?
Do you know how to measure drivers in the cabinet?
Are you wanting to learn how to do that?
Would you be satisfied with a xo just based on simulations from the spec sheets? Potentially very good but realistically not the best it could be.
Or perhaps would you be better off with an existing design that is going to fit your boxes?
Do you know how to design one?
Do you know how to measure drivers in the cabinet?
Are you wanting to learn how to do that?
Would you be satisfied with a xo just based on simulations from the spec sheets? Potentially very good but realistically not the best it could be.
Or perhaps would you be better off with an existing design that is going to fit your boxes?
Yeah I don't currently own any measuring equipment for audio and I am still learning crossovers. Easiest option would be to take some design and just put it in a box... If you have any advice it would be great.
Maybe if i used Omens Audio drivers i can just copy the crossover design from one of the Omens Audio kits that use same drivers. Only thing is then I would need to make a mounting plate for tweeter since it is smaller then the hole but that would be pretty easy i think...
Thank you. I think for now i am going to go with them because it is simple, budget friendly and doesn't look bad at all for that money. I can always upgrade once I learn a bit more on crossovers and 2 way in general. All i built so far were some subwoofer boxes and some "fun" projects that actually didn't sound too bad for being tuned without proper calculations lol
Thanks.
Thanks.
yea, with a pre-existing xo for those drivers, I'd have a hard time saying no to them too. The woofer looks like it will work well in about 25L tuned to ~45Hz. You don't even need to flush mount it either, it's made for surface mounting.
The only other project I was able to find that is close to your cabinet dimensions was Jeff Bagby's Tributes with SB Acoustic drivers:
Box
plus the forum discussion
The only other project I was able to find that is close to your cabinet dimensions was Jeff Bagby's Tributes with SB Acoustic drivers:
Box
plus the forum discussion
That also looks nice but is a bit more expensive.
Thank you. Now i have two options. One budget and one more expensive. I will think about it when time comes to build them.
Thank you. Now i have two options. One budget and one more expensive. I will think about it when time comes to build them.
I think i am going to go with Omens Audio combination now what would be a good port diameter. Would 70mm diameter port work? Because I found a port with 70mm inner diameter it needs 96 mm cutout because of the flare and that is pretty much exactly cutout on my boxes. If smaller port is really needed i can probably make a plate or something but if this 70mm port would fit that would be great.
If the T/S parameters from the spec sheet are correct, that driver looks good in ~23L tuned to ~42Hz for an F3 of ~38Hz. That will need a port of 7cm x 23cm. Walls should be covered with foam or felt or some such. According to Unibox. I would be tempted to start with a little longer port length, listen and then shorten it you want a little more bass.
If Zvu has some other knowledge about that driver, perhaps he can contribute.
To reduce the cabinet volume, you can glue in pieces of wood to the interior panel surfaces. Or any other solid material that you choose. Closed cell rigid foam panels will also work if you don't want the extra weight. That might actually be a little difficult to do with only the access through the front driver cutouts so I might also consider cutting the back panel off the cabinets with a very good table saw blade and great care to avoid chipping the finish. Re-attach with a closed cell foam gasket and screws. That'll give you easier access and more options like perhaps adding another brace or 2 as another method of reducing volume. Of course if you can cut the back baffle off, you might want to think about just doing that and then cutting an inch or 2 or 3 right off the depth of the cabinet altogether. That will definitely reduce the volume as well. Most of the above assumes you have access to woodworking tools of course.
If Zvu has some other knowledge about that driver, perhaps he can contribute.
To reduce the cabinet volume, you can glue in pieces of wood to the interior panel surfaces. Or any other solid material that you choose. Closed cell rigid foam panels will also work if you don't want the extra weight. That might actually be a little difficult to do with only the access through the front driver cutouts so I might also consider cutting the back panel off the cabinets with a very good table saw blade and great care to avoid chipping the finish. Re-attach with a closed cell foam gasket and screws. That'll give you easier access and more options like perhaps adding another brace or 2 as another method of reducing volume. Of course if you can cut the back baffle off, you might want to think about just doing that and then cutting an inch or 2 or 3 right off the depth of the cabinet altogether. That will definitely reduce the volume as well. Most of the above assumes you have access to woodworking tools of course.
SB Acoustics has some sweet and well price drivers. See Troels Gravesen website. Also look on Parts Express project pages and Tech Talk for a project by Wolf that utilizes the Hi-Vi F6 driver, which is very affordable. It is 30 liters. Nephila | Parts Express Project Gallery It's a wonderful sounding speaker.
I will look at more options but if I for example decide for Omens Audio option would styrofoam panels work for filling in a little bit of space. They are cheap and easy to cut. Also i can put some triangles in the corners on the bottom where there is a port hole. I know that 90 degree corners are not so good for acoustic anyways so adding triangle shaped corner braces would probably be a good thing and how about acoustic foam i was thinking about it regardless to absorb some higher frequency resonances in the box. How would it effect the internal volume?
Yes, styrofoam = closed cell rigid foam
However here's another lower budget option I just figured out that fits better in a 30L box:
Vifa DX25TG-59/04 | RumoH - Caps, Coils and Speakers
Peerless SDS-164 THP | RumoH - Caps, Coils and Speakers
Essentially this is the Tarkus without the woofer. So just as a vented 2-way TM. Because it's based on an existing design, I can re-work the xo into something for your cabinet with more confidence than just basing it on the spec sheets alone.
The driver works very nicely in a 30-33L box tuned to 40Hz with an F3 of 40Hz. A 7cm port flared at 1 end would need to be ~18cm long. The frame of the driver is about the same as the LoCo 6.1 and doesn't need to be countersunk either. The tweeter also fits your existing cutout and although it would be better countersunk, I suppose you could get away with surface mounting it as well.
Let me know if that appeals to you and I will re-work the xo for you.
However here's another lower budget option I just figured out that fits better in a 30L box:
Vifa DX25TG-59/04 | RumoH - Caps, Coils and Speakers
Peerless SDS-164 THP | RumoH - Caps, Coils and Speakers
Essentially this is the Tarkus without the woofer. So just as a vented 2-way TM. Because it's based on an existing design, I can re-work the xo into something for your cabinet with more confidence than just basing it on the spec sheets alone.
The driver works very nicely in a 30-33L box tuned to 40Hz with an F3 of 40Hz. A 7cm port flared at 1 end would need to be ~18cm long. The frame of the driver is about the same as the LoCo 6.1 and doesn't need to be countersunk either. The tweeter also fits your existing cutout and although it would be better countersunk, I suppose you could get away with surface mounting it as well.
Let me know if that appeals to you and I will re-work the xo for you.
I like it. It is still pretty affordable and i really like that bigger tweeter on this option. I heard that smaller dome tweeters don't image as well as "full" size ones (don't know if it is true) And it fits without plate...
What would crossover circuit look like? I think this will be a good middle ground between super budget and too expensive. This fits within a budget and looks really good. I think i am going to go with that option. I will probably build them at the beginning of the next year.
Thank you.
What would crossover circuit look like? I think this will be a good middle ground between super budget and too expensive. This fits within a budget and looks really good. I think i am going to go with that option. I will probably build them at the beginning of the next year.
Thank you.
If you can let me know approximately how high from the bottom of the cabinet the centers of the driver cutouts are, that will help with the xo simulation.
From the bottom of the box to the center of the woofer is around 250mm and from the bottom to the center of the tweeter is around 415mm.
