I picked up a pair of infinity RS5001's that somebody was getting rid of today but they are missing the woofers. I want to drop in a pair of drivers to get these up and running again. I'm sure they arent the best speakers, but from what I understand they are from the old school line of infinity speakers and are pretty decent.
Heres my problem, according to the infinity site these are 6 ohm speakers. Would I need a 4 or 8 ohm replacement woofer?
I'm trying to do things cheaply, any recomendations would be appreceated
Heres my problem, according to the infinity site these are 6 ohm speakers. Would I need a 4 or 8 ohm replacement woofer?
I'm trying to do things cheaply, any recomendations would be appreceated
they are a 3 way design right? Pretty hard for anyone to anwser your question without seeing a schematic of the xover but why don't you just contact infinity.
I've owned vintage infinities, and have friends, and we got the info we needed to restore our speakers from them. They will try and sell you replacement woofers of their own making but I'm not a fan of their poly cone woofers.
There are also a couple of sites devoted to vintage speakers including Infinity. just google for them.
I will say the old infinities I've owned had 8 ohm woofers wired out of phase with the mid.
I've owned vintage infinities, and have friends, and we got the info we needed to restore our speakers from them. They will try and sell you replacement woofers of their own making but I'm not a fan of their poly cone woofers.
There are also a couple of sites devoted to vintage speakers including Infinity. just google for them.
I will say the old infinities I've owned had 8 ohm woofers wired out of phase with the mid.
Yeah, there the 3-ways
Ill give infinity a call tomorrow, there web site wasnt much help unless I wanted new drivers, thanks for the help😉
Ill give infinity a call tomorrow, there web site wasnt much help unless I wanted new drivers, thanks for the help😉
This post is old but will still bring my problem to it!
1st to answer what is posted here: The woofers are 8in IMG Type drivers
2nd the mids are polyspheryte and a replacement made out of synthetic long lasting materials were brought to the audience by Infinity
Now my problem is:
- My Emit K Tweeter suffered crack aloong it's ribbon due to old age and a replacement costs for the crossovers step-up frequency 4300hz, allot about 163€ one piece of Visaton and further on and afterwards you have to deal with the replacement shape and size!
- Now I am willing to put in a pair of Monacor RBT-95 since they are about 100€ plus shiping a pair but problem is they like xo's only from 5000hz up so that leads to the next problems, they baing:
- Say I will get an add-on TW that being attenuator and some more xo components caps. and what more needed, how hard will the unlikliness factor for the missing 700hz because of the xo#s adaptation be and i mean here how big the difference between mids and highs be and
- How up in frequency does the mids go
I will come further on this thread to help those with the RS-5001 speakers and post updates on my progress
Thank you!
1st to answer what is posted here: The woofers are 8in IMG Type drivers
2nd the mids are polyspheryte and a replacement made out of synthetic long lasting materials were brought to the audience by Infinity
Now my problem is:
- My Emit K Tweeter suffered crack aloong it's ribbon due to old age and a replacement costs for the crossovers step-up frequency 4300hz, allot about 163€ one piece of Visaton and further on and afterwards you have to deal with the replacement shape and size!
- Now I am willing to put in a pair of Monacor RBT-95 since they are about 100€ plus shiping a pair but problem is they like xo's only from 5000hz up so that leads to the next problems, they baing:
- Say I will get an add-on TW that being attenuator and some more xo components caps. and what more needed, how hard will the unlikliness factor for the missing 700hz because of the xo#s adaptation be and i mean here how big the difference between mids and highs be and
- How up in frequency does the mids go
I will come further on this thread to help those with the RS-5001 speakers and post updates on my progress
Thank you!
I wonder if it's worth spending a lot of money on replacements here. I'd fit these 92mm units: HT-22/8
The RBT 95 units are ideally for 5kHz second order crossover, but I expect you will get away with the 4kHz third order here. RBT-95
You'll need to attenuate that unit. It's 98dB.
I thought this model was an odd crossover, all the values seemed wrong for 8 ohms, polarity seemed wrong to. I got ++-, and impedance was terrible, below 3 ohms at one point.
Infinity Reference X001 E Serie
You might notice the Infinity RS 4001 is a dome tweeter version of your speaker. Almost any 91dB tweeter will be close. Different second order 4R and 3uF/0.3mH filter.
The RBT 95 units are ideally for 5kHz second order crossover, but I expect you will get away with the 4kHz third order here. RBT-95
You'll need to attenuate that unit. It's 98dB.
I thought this model was an odd crossover, all the values seemed wrong for 8 ohms, polarity seemed wrong to. I got ++-, and impedance was terrible, below 3 ohms at one point.
Infinity Reference X001 E Serie
You might notice the Infinity RS 4001 is a dome tweeter version of your speaker. Almost any 91dB tweeter will be close. Different second order 4R and 3uF/0.3mH filter.
I had a positive experience with Monacor 60/8 4'' midrange 12€/pcs. And they would do for the 600hz step-up of the xo, or would the Visaton do as well? It takes from 1600hz up the tollerance or since I do not know how to read crossovers they would work aswell in these units? If yes tha they would do 1st replacement very good and 2nd replacement for a little more aid due to more movement posibility of the cone the Monacor.
I have a question here:
- For the mid not to desintegrate what should i brush it with as a compound to hold it togheder some more just in case... Mine holds another 5 - 8yrs max.
- Brush with thinned paint - it would harden too much the whole cap of it
- Spray it with liquid patex (the one that comes in spray cans for applying wood veneer to your speakers)?
- For the mid not to desintegrate what should i brush it with as a compound to hold it togheder some more just in case... Mine holds another 5 - 8yrs max.
- Brush with thinned paint - it would harden too much the whole cap of it
- Spray it with liquid patex (the one that comes in spray cans for applying wood veneer to your speakers)?
I think changing the mid driver is too much of an ask, but don't let me stop you modelling it:
These visaton projects can just be placed in the projekte folder of Boxsim, and you are up and running in minutes!
http://boxsim-db.de/kategorie/systeme/drei-wege/
Visaton Boxsim
Once you get the idea, you can use any similar drivers (similar Le is important) and fiddle around with resistors to get level right.
I have no idea what you might paint onto a soft dome to make it last longer. 😀
These visaton projects can just be placed in the projekte folder of Boxsim, and you are up and running in minutes!
http://boxsim-db.de/kategorie/systeme/drei-wege/
Visaton Boxsim
Once you get the idea, you can use any similar drivers (similar Le is important) and fiddle around with resistors to get level right.
I have no idea what you might paint onto a soft dome to make it last longer. 😀
I will start the search for new mids the polipropilene ones that were the replacements for these and buy a pair as spare. Meanwhile I do not know what Lpad to put on the TW and tomorow is buying day!
To be honest, I had a lot of trouble with the Infinity circuit. It didn't make a lot of sense to me unless the drivers are quite unusual. Particularly the plastic dome mid.
To use a regular 91dB tweeter with this speaker, and there are many, you want the simpler tweeter filter. As below. Quite standard stuff. shouldn't be hard to fit the new components. The 2 ohm is the existing L-pad IIRC. It's a 89dB speaker as far as I know.
To use a regular 91dB tweeter with this speaker, and there are many, you want the simpler tweeter filter. As below. Quite standard stuff. shouldn't be hard to fit the new components. The 2 ohm is the existing L-pad IIRC. It's a 89dB speaker as far as I know.
Attachments
I'll be back later from work and lookforward to ordeting them! What exactly by name should I ask to be in the box (+ components)? Starting:
1. A pair of TWs,
2. ...?
1. A pair of TWs,
2. ...?
I get the feeling you aren't too sure about all this. You do know how to solder, yes?
Option 1:
91dB tweeter and new second order crossover.
3.3uF 250V MKP polypropylene or 50V NP electrolytic capacitor.
0.3mH aircoil inductor.
2X 3.9R wirewound resistors 7W.
Use 30A fusewire to adjust connections.
Option 2:
91dB tweeter and original crossover.
Add two 3.9R wirewound resistors 7W.
Option 3:
87dB tweeter and original crossover.
No mods required except possibly connectors. IF you are lucky. If the tweeter isn't loud enough, there's not much you can do.
It is up to you to measure a replacement for fit. Level is a guess on my part. Resistor values might need adjustment, and it would be good to have 2x 2.2R and 2X 6.2R to hand.
Option 1:
91dB tweeter and new second order crossover.
3.3uF 250V MKP polypropylene or 50V NP electrolytic capacitor.
0.3mH aircoil inductor.
2X 3.9R wirewound resistors 7W.
Use 30A fusewire to adjust connections.
Option 2:
91dB tweeter and original crossover.
Add two 3.9R wirewound resistors 7W.
Option 3:
87dB tweeter and original crossover.
No mods required except possibly connectors. IF you are lucky. If the tweeter isn't loud enough, there's not much you can do.
It is up to you to measure a replacement for fit. Level is a guess on my part. Resistor values might need adjustment, and it would be good to have 2x 2.2R and 2X 6.2R to hand.
Attachments
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Oszkar, if you want to use this 98dB Monacor RBT-95, you must make a 10dB 8 ohm attenuator for it placed across the tweeter terminals.
LPad Driver Attenuation Circuit Designer Calculator
LPad Driver Attenuation Circuit Designer Calculator
Attachments
If I get the Beyma I am havinto attenuate it or if it is the DT-109 attenuation is not necessary. Just curious how does the Silk coated with Tytanium Tweeter sound in comparison to titanium tweeter? Is it mild as you would wish tytanium to be sometimes or is it mellow and loosing kick in the trebble area as silk does? Well it makes me think what to choose between them two and more witch sounds closer to the ribbon? Is tytanium better after all this?
Oszkar you're just randomly throwing up tweeters here. You didn't like my Monacor HT-22 suggestion. Personally I'd consider these two:
SEAS 22TAF/G Aluminium Dome
Vifa XT25G30-04
Both very good. Around 91 dB so might work out of the box with your filter. And if they don't, ATTENUATE.
SEAS 22TAF/G Aluminium Dome
Vifa XT25G30-04
Both very good. Around 91 dB so might work out of the box with your filter. And if they don't, ATTENUATE.
Yes it is so, nut no such here in my country dough searched for them high and low. The Beyma and a lot of Monacor is avaylable here. Maybe I'll leave the beyma as they are in, I still have the volume knob for the tweeters on the back. BTW Next year when I settle down a little I will buy a monacor ribbon and place it in it's own box cutting at 10000hz and having it as a super tweeter with no more sorrys.
It is not a volume knob, it's a 2W variable resistor ( 5 Ω) and when it's
half-way it's 2.5 Ω. It's there for "fine tuning" the treble in the room for your taste, but it does very little, as the one on the midrange path.
I wonder if it may be also causing some troubles, because it is wirewound and the wiper might cause electrical arching (??) but I dunno 🙄
Indeed it's a variable resistor, a rheostat, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer
" If only two terminals are used, one end and the wiper, it acts as a variable resistor or rheostat."
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