What do you read when you touch your meter probes together for several seconds?
Subtract that from what you read across the resistors.
Subtract that from what you read across the resistors.
darn it i forgot about the leads carrying resistance themselves.. but when i touched them together i get a .1 ohm readings. which would make mine .2 to .3 ohms.
When you touch the probes to the resistors, you have to hold them there the same amount of time you held the probes together when you read 0.1 ohms.
As long as they're essentially the same value, they're very likely OK.
As long as they're essentially the same value, they're very likely OK.
Could i reinstall the good parts and leave out the shorted driver and power it up to see if the pulsing/ticking goes away?
I'm not sure if that would work in that amp with a missing driver transistor. If you remove the outputs that were being driven by the blown driver, you could reinstall the other parts that are not blown and power it up.
To determine which outputs were being driven by the blown driver transistor, follow the trace from pin 1 of the driver to the base resistors of the output transistors.
To determine which outputs were being driven by the blown driver transistor, follow the trace from pin 1 of the driver to the base resistors of the output transistors.
Hey I have been testing another amp of mine and i found some drive transistors shorted in it too and I am having troubles finding them and they are A1352's. Is there a cross number for them?
I am going to order those others you said you never tried as an replacement and see how my amp does after that. Thanks for all the help.
I am going to order those others you said you never tried as an replacement and see how my amp does after that. Thanks for all the help.
hello I just recieved my driver transistors today and i installed them and clif amp still doesn't work.. it still pulses. What else could cause this?
no..I can hear the ticking over by the power/ground inputs. it used to pulse through my speakers but since i replaced those parts it doesn't anymore.
i just stick it into the car... with 0 gauge wires for power and ground. The batt. has 700 cca and the alt is 130 amps from factory
When testing amps you should get the amp to power up via a 10-20 amp fuse before connecting it directly to the power source. It will help save the new parts if there is a problem.
The over-current detect transistor may have failed. It should be near a small diode in the audio section of the amplifier. It may be a c3198. The first leg is likely to be connected to the third leg of the output transistors.
Were there any shorted outputs?
The over-current detect transistor may have failed. It should be near a small diode in the audio section of the amplifier. It may be a c3198. The first leg is likely to be connected to the third leg of the output transistors.
Were there any shorted outputs?
well the three shorted transistors i pulled were fine out of the bored but were linked to the one driver transistors that was shorted.
what would cause these things to short with out blowing the inline fuse to protect them? The fuse is 120 amp. Is that too much for that amp? It has a nonregulated pwm power supply.
It's possible that the drivers are not up to the task or it could have been a random failure.
The fuses in many amplifiers are too large to offer much protection. With six 40 amp fuses, it's likely that the power supply would fail catastrophically before the fuses blew. If you have a 120 amp fuse in the B+ line, it would blow before the fuses on board. In this instance, the protection circuit reacted quickly enough to prevent excessive current flow.
If you find that the over-current transistor has failed and you remove it, do NOT power up the amp unless you do so with a 20 amp fuse in series with the B+ line. Even after you replace the transistor, you should power up the amp through the 20 amp fuse.
The fuses in many amplifiers are too large to offer much protection. With six 40 amp fuses, it's likely that the power supply would fail catastrophically before the fuses blew. If you have a 120 amp fuse in the B+ line, it would blow before the fuses on board. In this instance, the protection circuit reacted quickly enough to prevent excessive current flow.
If you find that the over-current transistor has failed and you remove it, do NOT power up the amp unless you do so with a 20 amp fuse in series with the B+ line. Even after you replace the transistor, you should power up the amp through the 20 amp fuse.
Ok i think i fould them. should i ohm check these just like a regular trasistor to see if a get a reading close to 0?
well on both sides when i put the pos lead onto the middle leg on the transistor and the neg on either outside it has ol the you put the pos lead on the outside legs and the neg on the middle leg it produces good readings. should this be right?
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