Help with an nec 15"
Hi guys, 1st post in here but have read up quite a bit, my problem is that i have stripped down an NEC Multisync 1525 and when i plugged it in for testing the power brick blew ( i know this cause i opened it upand black marks on it).
I have a standard 12v universal plug that will power it but it turns on and off repeatedly! I was thinking of buying a new power brick (12v 4a or 5a) but i dont want it to blow the same as the other as i think it will work wih a new power supply.
My question is does anybody know why it might have blown and the best things to do to stop my new one from going bang when i get it, I have the panel, a small board connected with with thin cables going to the screen, another board attached to that with longer thin cables goin to the smaller board and the power and vga inputs, and the front panel board with on button, could any of this need grounding or do i need to attach the backlight voltage board or the speakers board,
ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
thanks in advance guys, my 3m 9550 arraives in 2 days so im in a bit of rush to sort this, Thanks
Hi guys, 1st post in here but have read up quite a bit, my problem is that i have stripped down an NEC Multisync 1525 and when i plugged it in for testing the power brick blew ( i know this cause i opened it upand black marks on it).
I have a standard 12v universal plug that will power it but it turns on and off repeatedly! I was thinking of buying a new power brick (12v 4a or 5a) but i dont want it to blow the same as the other as i think it will work wih a new power supply.
My question is does anybody know why it might have blown and the best things to do to stop my new one from going bang when i get it, I have the panel, a small board connected with with thin cables going to the screen, another board attached to that with longer thin cables goin to the smaller board and the power and vga inputs, and the front panel board with on button, could any of this need grounding or do i need to attach the backlight voltage board or the speakers board,
ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
thanks in advance guys, my 3m 9550 arraives in 2 days so im in a bit of rush to sort this, Thanks
thanks for everyones help so far? (only kidding), a bit more information to see if anyone can help,
Right, ive thought about this and this is where im at now,
I think i caused a short when i first powered it up as i just had the circuit boards layed about on the floor and thats why the original power pack blew,
I think the universal adaptor is not able to output enough power to work the monitor and the failsafe built into it is turning the plug off and on so it doesnt overheat,
I have a new power supply to try and i'm going to screww all the circuit boards and controllers to a wooden board so nothing can short and hopefully (fingers crossed) i might be able to get this thing running.
If anyone things that this may be wrong or has any other ideas please, please let me know as I really do not want to blow another power pack (£25 a go).
cheers guys
Right, ive thought about this and this is where im at now,
I think i caused a short when i first powered it up as i just had the circuit boards layed about on the floor and thats why the original power pack blew,
I think the universal adaptor is not able to output enough power to work the monitor and the failsafe built into it is turning the plug off and on so it doesnt overheat,
I have a new power supply to try and i'm going to screww all the circuit boards and controllers to a wooden board so nothing can short and hopefully (fingers crossed) i might be able to get this thing running.
If anyone things that this may be wrong or has any other ideas please, please let me know as I really do not want to blow another power pack (£25 a go).
cheers guys
Is this a NEC 1525S you're using, if so awesome monitor for the job!
On section thoughts you probably have the 1525X or similar edition as you mention it needs a 12V PSU, not the 24V PSU the 1525S uses...
I think you are correct, the other day whilst testing some NEC 1525S units with a 20V PSU it flicked on and off, when i switched over to a 24V PSU it worked perfectly... Your PSU is probably underated and the voltage is dropping under load.
Try unplugging the inverter, thats uses at least 2 amps @ 12v, or the new PSU should do the job
I have a website with loads of information about NEC monitors:
www.diycinema.co.uk/forum
If it's of any use..
On section thoughts you probably have the 1525X or similar edition as you mention it needs a 12V PSU, not the 24V PSU the 1525S uses...
I think you are correct, the other day whilst testing some NEC 1525S units with a 20V PSU it flicked on and off, when i switched over to a 24V PSU it worked perfectly... Your PSU is probably underated and the voltage is dropping under load.
Try unplugging the inverter, thats uses at least 2 amps @ 12v, or the new PSU should do the job
I have a website with loads of information about NEC monitors:
www.diycinema.co.uk/forum
If it's of any use..
Hi mate, thanks for the help there,
just to let you know i got the 1525M and any info you have would be superb as i am hoping to get this lot up and running tommorow,
Do you know whivh is the inverter board (is it the one with the baclight attached?) and also do you know why it may have blown he original and can you see anyreason why iy would blow another?,
thanks again for your input, greatly appreciated,
cheers,
darren
just to let you know i got the 1525M and any info you have would be superb as i am hoping to get this lot up and running tommorow,
Do you know whivh is the inverter board (is it the one with the baclight attached?) and also do you know why it may have blown he original and can you see anyreason why iy would blow another?,
thanks again for your input, greatly appreciated,
cheers,
darren
Hi There..
Taken from www.diycinema.co.uk:
The small board on the left is the inverter. It won't look exactly the same (probably has 4 tubes connected instead of 2) but will look similar.
All NEC monitors I have worked with (quite a few) will operate without the inverter (but obviously no backlight).
You shouldn't have problems with grounding, but it might be worth putting it back together, minus the inverter and seeing if that helps.
No idea why its blowing PSUs, usually an onboard fuse will blow near the DC input if you have an internal short. It's definately the right polarity?
Was it like this before you took it apart?
Also, make sure you insulate the boards from the wood, it might be slightly conductive (not enough to cause a big short but maybe enough to stop something working as it should).
Don't take risks, one short could kill it! If you think the circuitary is dead look out for a smashed NEC 1525X or 1525M and use your screen.
Good Luck..
Doug
Taken from www.diycinema.co.uk:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The small board on the left is the inverter. It won't look exactly the same (probably has 4 tubes connected instead of 2) but will look similar.
All NEC monitors I have worked with (quite a few) will operate without the inverter (but obviously no backlight).
You shouldn't have problems with grounding, but it might be worth putting it back together, minus the inverter and seeing if that helps.
No idea why its blowing PSUs, usually an onboard fuse will blow near the DC input if you have an internal short. It's definately the right polarity?
Was it like this before you took it apart?
Also, make sure you insulate the boards from the wood, it might be slightly conductive (not enough to cause a big short but maybe enough to stop something working as it should).
Don't take risks, one short could kill it! If you think the circuitary is dead look out for a smashed NEC 1525X or 1525M and use your screen.
Good Luck..
Doug
Hi mate thanks for all this assistance, pretty valuable info for me.
i tested the monitor when i got it with the original power supply (NEC) and it all worked fine, then i stripped it on the bedroom floor connected up again minus inverter and speaker/audio boards and plugged it in and POP!!, no light on the power pak? i opened the power pack and there was a big black burnout mark on the inside of the case?
Like i say the monitor is still working with the universal adaptor but it doesnt have enough power and so keeps turning off and on,
hope theres nothing dead but hoping to find out as soon as my new power supply arrives.
if the boards were touching each other somehow could that have maybe caused a short and blown the psu?
thanks again for all this info mate and nice site you have, ill get some pics on there as soon as i sort this thing out,
i tested the monitor when i got it with the original power supply (NEC) and it all worked fine, then i stripped it on the bedroom floor connected up again minus inverter and speaker/audio boards and plugged it in and POP!!, no light on the power pak? i opened the power pack and there was a big black burnout mark on the inside of the case?
Like i say the monitor is still working with the universal adaptor but it doesnt have enough power and so keeps turning off and on,
hope theres nothing dead but hoping to find out as soon as my new power supply arrives.
if the boards were touching each other somehow could that have maybe caused a short and blown the psu?
thanks again for all this info mate and nice site you have, ill get some pics on there as soon as i sort this thing out,
Hint: don't take it apart on the bedroom floor, especially if the floor is carpeted. This is a very good way to turn working driver PCBs into not-working PCBs. Static kills semiconductors, take care.
Yes, even the briefest of contact between two random parts of energized circuits could be sufficient to blow things up. I learned this the hard way *and* from instructors, so you know it's got to be true... 😉
If you blasted a short-circuit into the internal components on a chip, that might be enough to overload the power brick enough to fry it. Extreme caution will go a long ways toward not having to get another display. Secondhand power supplies should not be too expensive. Think second-hand. A regular PC power supply should have more than enough +12V juice for the interim until you can find a proper power supply.
Yes, even the briefest of contact between two random parts of energized circuits could be sufficient to blow things up. I learned this the hard way *and* from instructors, so you know it's got to be true... 😉
If you blasted a short-circuit into the internal components on a chip, that might be enough to overload the power brick enough to fry it. Extreme caution will go a long ways toward not having to get another display. Secondhand power supplies should not be too expensive. Think second-hand. A regular PC power supply should have more than enough +12V juice for the interim until you can find a proper power supply.
Re: Help with an nec 15"
This has cost me more than one project, by the way. Expect for it to take three times longer than is reasonable, and be pleasantly surprised when everything comes together early... not the reverse!
dlamiot said:
This has cost me more than one project, by the way. Expect for it to take three times longer than is reasonable, and be pleasantly surprised when everything comes together early... not the reverse!
It's like stocker says above, the boards could have shorted and blown the PSU. Hopefully it hasn't done any damage (it sounds like it's still working) and with the next PSU it might power up properly, good luck!..
Yes carpet is definately not a good idea, a great way to build up static- but not if you have a grounding strap!
If you don't have one of these you can ground yourself by touching a bare metal section on your PC when it's still plugged in, or by grabing a a copper radiator pipe..
Yes carpet is definately not a good idea, a great way to build up static- but not if you have a grounding strap!
If you don't have one of these you can ground yourself by touching a bare metal section on your PC when it's still plugged in, or by grabing a a copper radiator pipe..
Well guys recieved power supply and ohp this morning and good news is monitor works! and ohp projects a superb image! all good news!
No not entirely, few questions, when i plug the monitor into my pc i get zero picture, when i use it as a clone a get no image, if i pull the power cable out and put it back in the image appears in clone mode? go figure? Any how any help with that would be a bonus although i am building a pc to use this with so hopefully that wont be a problem as it will be primary display.
Next thing is any res above 1024 X 768 and i loose a 3rd of the screen? again not major as i'll just have to run the new pc at that res, also is there any way of me getting nearly all the screen to project as i am missing top bottoma and both sides about 1/2 to 1cm on all?
Lastly when i play a dvd or divx os the clone no picture is displayed winamp, windows media player and power dvd all show but no movie but its there on the primary? again hopefully solved with the new build and primary mon,
thanks in advance for any info, i'm within touching distance of the holy grail but think it might be some time before i can finally reach it, probably as long as it takes for my arm to grow!!
cheers guys
No not entirely, few questions, when i plug the monitor into my pc i get zero picture, when i use it as a clone a get no image, if i pull the power cable out and put it back in the image appears in clone mode? go figure? Any how any help with that would be a bonus although i am building a pc to use this with so hopefully that wont be a problem as it will be primary display.
Next thing is any res above 1024 X 768 and i loose a 3rd of the screen? again not major as i'll just have to run the new pc at that res, also is there any way of me getting nearly all the screen to project as i am missing top bottoma and both sides about 1/2 to 1cm on all?
Lastly when i play a dvd or divx os the clone no picture is displayed winamp, windows media player and power dvd all show but no movie but its there on the primary? again hopefully solved with the new build and primary mon,
thanks in advance for any info, i'm within touching distance of the holy grail but think it might be some time before i can finally reach it, probably as long as it takes for my arm to grow!!
cheers guys
Hmmm...
You will always want it running at 1024x768 as thats the native resolution - LCDs don't look good at anything but that.
Thats some pretty strange behaviour, whats the refresh rate set as? It should be 60Hz.
I'm sure theres a better solution - i too can't play movies on both screens in clone mode, but I usually set the monitor I want to display the movie on as the primary monitor in display settings.
It could be that when you load a game its setup to operate at higher than 1024x768 and the monitor trips out, is this the case?
You will always want it running at 1024x768 as thats the native resolution - LCDs don't look good at anything but that.
Thats some pretty strange behaviour, whats the refresh rate set as? It should be 60Hz.
I'm sure theres a better solution - i too can't play movies on both screens in clone mode, but I usually set the monitor I want to display the movie on as the primary monitor in display settings.
It could be that when you load a game its setup to operate at higher than 1024x768 and the monitor trips out, is this the case?
dont think so mate,
even loading into windows, makes it do it, loading a game it does it, anything really where the screen completely changes??
I am a little dissapointed to be honest as the 15"panel on an ohp is losing loads of screen and powerstrip is not being much help so i have probably 1" in total lost horizontally?
what do you think my chances are of dismantling everything and building them into a seperate enclosure??
cheers guys
even loading into windows, makes it do it, loading a game it does it, anything really where the screen completely changes??
I am a little dissapointed to be honest as the 15"panel on an ohp is losing loads of screen and powerstrip is not being much help so i have probably 1" in total lost horizontally?
what do you think my chances are of dismantling everything and building them into a seperate enclosure??
cheers guys
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