Novice kit builder needs your help. Months ago I purchase a complete kit and 2 extra circuit boards in case I screwed up. I was super slow and triple checked everything and successfully completed my first kit! Yahoo!
Now i want to build another set for my brother, but the store is out of kits. I have the boards, and I can figure out all the resistors/capacitors/etc I will need from the BOM, but have no idea what the correct other parts are. Can anyone be kind enough to give me Mouser or Digikey part numbers for the
power switches
female power inlet receptacle
RCA female receptacles
speaker terminals
brass standoffs
leds
power bricks
I'll measure all of the screws and washers and buy at Hm Depot.
I'll buy the enclosure, keratherm and JFETS from the store.
I'd prefer to purchase everything from the DIY store, but my soldering iron is ready to go back to work now, and I've no idea when kits will be back in stock.
I followed the build guide from 6L6 and it was fantastic for this noobie,
Thanks for any help you can offer. Craig in Seattle
Now i want to build another set for my brother, but the store is out of kits. I have the boards, and I can figure out all the resistors/capacitors/etc I will need from the BOM, but have no idea what the correct other parts are. Can anyone be kind enough to give me Mouser or Digikey part numbers for the
power switches
female power inlet receptacle
RCA female receptacles
speaker terminals
brass standoffs
leds
power bricks
I'll measure all of the screws and washers and buy at Hm Depot.
I'll buy the enclosure, keratherm and JFETS from the store.
I'd prefer to purchase everything from the DIY store, but my soldering iron is ready to go back to work now, and I've no idea when kits will be back in stock.
I followed the build guide from 6L6 and it was fantastic for this noobie,
Thanks for any help you can offer. Craig in Seattle
Hi,
The RCAs are probably a standard size, but you should buy RCAs with shoulder washers.
shoulder washers isolates the RCA body from the chassis.
Best place to buy these types are from high end parts sellers like Percy Audio, Parts Express, Parts Connexion, etc.
Power Switch is not exactly standard since it's probably using a 1/2" or larger diameter body. However, I just bought three of these (similar) from Mouser. Mine have a square face instead of round. The info on the ACA chassis page says it's a 16mm hole. 16mm is .6299", so that's just larger than 1/2". 🙂
This is a screw-down type. The ACA uses a press fit type. Due to the thickness of the face-plate, the screw type might not work, but it will get you close to finding the right type.
103-R13-135A2-02-EV | Mouser
The speaker terminals look like the type you can get from partsexpress.com.
Gold Plated Binding Post Pair
Brass standoffs probably use a 6-32 thread. Could find these at a computer store.
Better check on this since it's a guess on my part.
LEDs: measure the diameter of the LEDs on the one you built and just get the same size and color. Should be close. You'll need a LED holder as well. Find your LED and find a holder for it.
Power Brick: +19V DC, 5 amp or more amps. These are usually from laptops. These are all over the internet. Just search on these spec.
The female power inlet: will have to match your power brick or go to Radio Shack and look for N or M type power connectors. Measure the power inlet on the ACA chassis.
That will tell you which to buy. Only problem with this approach is you'll have to cut off the connector off the power brick.
Hope this helps.
Vince
The RCAs are probably a standard size, but you should buy RCAs with shoulder washers.
shoulder washers isolates the RCA body from the chassis.
Best place to buy these types are from high end parts sellers like Percy Audio, Parts Express, Parts Connexion, etc.
Power Switch is not exactly standard since it's probably using a 1/2" or larger diameter body. However, I just bought three of these (similar) from Mouser. Mine have a square face instead of round. The info on the ACA chassis page says it's a 16mm hole. 16mm is .6299", so that's just larger than 1/2". 🙂
This is a screw-down type. The ACA uses a press fit type. Due to the thickness of the face-plate, the screw type might not work, but it will get you close to finding the right type.
103-R13-135A2-02-EV | Mouser
The speaker terminals look like the type you can get from partsexpress.com.
Gold Plated Binding Post Pair
Brass standoffs probably use a 6-32 thread. Could find these at a computer store.
Better check on this since it's a guess on my part.
LEDs: measure the diameter of the LEDs on the one you built and just get the same size and color. Should be close. You'll need a LED holder as well. Find your LED and find a holder for it.
Power Brick: +19V DC, 5 amp or more amps. These are usually from laptops. These are all over the internet. Just search on these spec.
The female power inlet: will have to match your power brick or go to Radio Shack and look for N or M type power connectors. Measure the power inlet on the ACA chassis.
That will tell you which to buy. Only problem with this approach is you'll have to cut off the connector off the power brick.
Hope this helps.
Vince
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You've probably seen this, but it should help with identifying parts.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/247361-aca-illustrated-build-guide.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/247361-aca-illustrated-build-guide.html
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