Ok I looked through numours forums and I am now totally confused. I would like to wire up a 8" LED bar in my 20Watt head and have it controlled by the 6.3v. So my question is this....Should I convert the AC to DC? If so what rectifier (Formula) do I use and what resistor value (formula)and how will it effect the brightness...here is a rough schematic of the connections...
or would I be ok just running it off the AC w/a resistor say 530ohm Here is a link to the LED that I am using...Logisys Computer Inc.
any help would be great as I am really getting confused at this point
thanks
theDogger
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
or would I be ok just running it off the AC w/a resistor say 530ohm Here is a link to the LED that I am using...Logisys Computer Inc.
any help would be great as I am really getting confused at this point
thanks
theDogger
Which part of "All you need is a 12V DC power source." confuses you ?
You can get 12V from 6.3V using a voltage doubler (Google: Greinacher doubler) and a suitable regulator (such as LM7812).
Let me ask a different way what would be the best way to connect the LED light bar so that it is powered by the amp power switch? The current Power LED is run off the 6.3v.
So looking at the spec of the LED bar it already is setup to take 12vDC. So where and how would be the best way to connect it? Do I need a different LED?
Sorry but I am really a newbe when it comes to electronics.
theDogger
So looking at the spec of the LED bar it already is setup to take 12vDC. So where and how would be the best way to connect it? Do I need a different LED?
Sorry but I am really a newbe when it comes to electronics.
theDogger
Your 6.3V source will not run the LED requiring 12V dc. If you can access the 6.3V AC source and use a voltage doubler you can get 12.6VDC.
Given that the LED assembly takes 1.5W, you would need 1.5W/12V= 125mA of current.
Without full details of your 6.3V source, it is difficult to tell whether or not it could provide this much current.
Given that the LED assembly takes 1.5W, you would need 1.5W/12V= 125mA of current.
Without full details of your 6.3V source, it is difficult to tell whether or not it could provide this much current.
Ok what info do you need? Or where else can I tap into coming of the transformer? Or would I be better off just making my own LED. Say take 2-3 single LED and wire them in series?
theDogger
theDogger
Do you mean powered by your 6.3v heater supplies to provide you with simple led lighting or are you expecting the 6.3v to control your led in some way to give you something else!
Brgds Bill
Yes I think that it is heater 6.3v
here is a schmatic
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
theDogger
I believe that it is the heater...here is a schematic
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yes , 6.3v is almost certainly your heater supplies.
My question is why you want to use it at all.
If you must then Arnulf and The Gimp's advice is what I would follow.
To be honest I would use a rechargeable battery, or even a wallwort as the led array appears to have a socket for one
Good luck Bill
edit
I presume this is a socket 😛
My question is why you want to use it at all.
If you must then Arnulf and The Gimp's advice is what I would follow.
To be honest I would use a rechargeable battery, or even a wallwort as the led array appears to have a socket for one
Good luck Bill
edit
I presume this is a socket 😛
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Your missing the point...I do not want to hassle w/ a battery and want a clean install. I want to be able to turn the amp on and the LED light up. So my question would be what would be the best way to do this. (For get the 12vLED that I posted earlier.) The current Power LED is connect to the 6.3 so I assume that I can use that for the LED??? How can I do that???
thanks for bearing with me
theDogger
thanks for bearing with me
theDogger
Why an 8" LED bar? Is there something special about it that you desire, or are you only interested in a power on indicator?
Simplest approach if all you want is a power on indicator is a single LED with a resistor selected for the voltage available to limit the current to the LED spec.
Simplest approach if all you want is a power on indicator is a single LED with a resistor selected for the voltage available to limit the current to the LED spec.
no I must be confusing the crap out of ya. I want to illuminate the inside of my amp. Like the Mesa TransAtlantic or like this
I did not think that it would be this hard! Here is an actual shot of the board..
Thanks for the help
theDogger
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I did not think that it would be this hard! Here is an actual shot of the board..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks for the help
theDogger
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Hmmm.
You'll need 12V.
You only have 6.3V
You are 5.7V short of making it work...
Maybe you can add a 12V PSU into the case to power the led, or re-wire the led so that it only needs 6V. I'd see if you can pull it apart and re-wire TBH.
You'll need 12V.
You only have 6.3V
You are 5.7V short of making it work...
Maybe you can add a 12V PSU into the case to power the led, or re-wire the led so that it only needs 6V. I'd see if you can pull it apart and re-wire TBH.
No forget the 12v LED bar how can I run a series of individual LED's off the 6.3V???
thanks
theDogger
Bright white LEDs usually run out of 3.6V. I have been using these devices for some time with great success. Two series 3.6V white LEDs (or even blue ones) will work with a 6.3V supply. You may insert a series resistor, if you wish to limit current and that LEDs last longer.
So, each 2 series LEDs you may wire in parallel with the 6.3V supply.
If you wish to control intensity, a simple circuit (LINEAR CONSTANT CURRENT White LED Dimmer | Circuit Project Electronic) can be used. I've built this circuit, and it works pretty fine. In this case, the LEDs are all paralleled, no series configuration (more detailed version here: http://radiolocation.tripod.com/LEDdimmer/LEDlampDimmer.html).
All the best,
Max.
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Ok now were are talking.....so I can take 4-blue LED's and wire them is two different series with a resistor say 560ohm to control the brightness? How does the math on this look? Is this right? Sorry so crude did it fast in Photochop
theDogger
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
theDogger
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If the 6.3v is still ac then it seems to me the diodes will only light up on half of the alternating current cycle. I would use a bridge rectifier (maybe even use the led's) to convert to dc. This will raise the voltage x 1.4 affecting the choice of series resistor
just my 2p
Brgds Bill
just my 2p
Brgds Bill
More like a 1/4 watt 5 ohm resistor..not a 560 ohm. Would the math be the following?
( Source Voltage - LED Voltage Drop ) / Amps = OHMs
Source Voltage = 126.3 volts
Voltage Drop = 6.2 volts (3.1 typical for a blue or white LED)
Desired Current = 20 milliamps (again, a typical value?)
(6.3 - 6.2) / ( 20 / 1000 ) = 5 ohms
??????
theDogger
( Source Voltage - LED Voltage Drop ) / Amps = OHMs
Source Voltage = 126.3 volts
Voltage Drop = 6.2 volts (3.1 typical for a blue or white LED)
Desired Current = 20 milliamps (again, a typical value?)
(6.3 - 6.2) / ( 20 / 1000 ) = 5 ohms
??????
theDogger
Yes that would work, just play with some resistors (and add a bridge rectifier if you want brighter) to suit.
So what you are say is that they may flash on AC? How can I test to see if it is AC or DC? I am assuming the most 6.3 heaters are AC.
Will some thing like this work? How do I figure out what I need for a resistor, rectifier and cap?
theDogger
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