Hi all,
I was cleaning out the room over the garage and dug out the old Kenwood KA-7002 amplifier my dad gave me as a kid.
I used to use it as a sub amp, but I haven't used it in a long time, but it used to work fine on both channels. I hooked it up and sound only comes out of the right channel. But, if I turn the balance all the way left and turn the volume up 2/3-3/4 of the way it crackles some and then the music will come in, following the bass hits (but it's crackly). If I rotate the volume knob back and forth with the bass it seems to help a little. Sometimes it will break into working full-time on the left channel for a few seconds, but then it drops out again.
If I press the "null balance" button, sound comes out of both speakers OK.
I have tried switching inputs (moved RCAs from input 1 to input 2), and tried different speaker outputs (tried on A and B independantly), but nothing changes the problem.
I tried some contact cleaner spray on the volume/balance control, but that didn't seem to help.
The heatsink on the left side is barely warm, while the right side is more so (normal temp?).
Thanks for any hints/suggestions,
Mike
I was cleaning out the room over the garage and dug out the old Kenwood KA-7002 amplifier my dad gave me as a kid.
I used to use it as a sub amp, but I haven't used it in a long time, but it used to work fine on both channels. I hooked it up and sound only comes out of the right channel. But, if I turn the balance all the way left and turn the volume up 2/3-3/4 of the way it crackles some and then the music will come in, following the bass hits (but it's crackly). If I rotate the volume knob back and forth with the bass it seems to help a little. Sometimes it will break into working full-time on the left channel for a few seconds, but then it drops out again.
If I press the "null balance" button, sound comes out of both speakers OK.
I have tried switching inputs (moved RCAs from input 1 to input 2), and tried different speaker outputs (tried on A and B independantly), but nothing changes the problem.
I tried some contact cleaner spray on the volume/balance control, but that didn't seem to help.
The heatsink on the left side is barely warm, while the right side is more so (normal temp?).
Thanks for any hints/suggestions,
Mike
I use WD40 for this case, and moving potenciometers up and down many times.
This is really moving, all the way up and down, equipment off...and inserting more WD40 and going again and again...i use to repeat that movement for 3 minutes (around).
I could have good results, not to eliminate all noises, but to reduce them to a reasonable level... to avoid replace the potentiometers...if the noise return.... i think they return, but not so bad as before the "treatment".
Check all trimpots too.... in advance, make marks of their position...one dot in the board and another aligned painting over the trimpot.... and go moving from left to rigth,as oxide will create a lot of problems..do it dry when starting...and them use the WD40 or a better contact cleaner.
First of all, clean all board with a brush.... remove the old board resine... something factory used, to old sets, covering the boad in the solder side, alcohol will dissolve,also Kerozene,that is Jet plane fuel, and many solvents used to dilute paint will help (do not use thinner!) the material used to cover the board, in the copper side, use to absorb watter, and i could fix noises just using a hair drier under the PC board..... clean all dust, do not use watter or any other material over transformers..and take care of alcohol that can destroy plastics...check if alcohol can destroy your painting.... passing it in some corner to check.... so, use it to clean your boards, both sides, as alcohol do not erase silk screen parts numbers and values...but.... to have guaranteed results..test alcohol in those parts too before start with a brush..
Avoid alcohol in the front panel, in special the transparent plastic... more safe to use Kerosene (the aviation jet plane fuel)
All switches need to have WD40 in long jets during the time you will be pushing buttons on and off.
I made that hundred of times.... had one or two troubles, because humidity penetrated the transformer, producing leakages and electrical shocks.....had to keep it under the Sun for one entire morning only..
The WD40 and those movements, are not a guarantee to fix the potentiometer.... but normally reduce the problem to an acceptable level, and also, turns clear when the only possible solution is the replacement of the unit.
I do not want to shock you too much guys, but normally i remove transformer and the unit goes into a small childreen plastic swiming pool, with a lot of strong soap and brush... and it stay there, as a submarine for hours...... after dry, i will start the WD40 and the rest of cleaning..... of course, wooden cabinets must be removed.....oh!..i love to wash those things.
But really, in this thread you have Eva, good to follow her advises...she is very competent.
regards,
Carlos
This is really moving, all the way up and down, equipment off...and inserting more WD40 and going again and again...i use to repeat that movement for 3 minutes (around).
I could have good results, not to eliminate all noises, but to reduce them to a reasonable level... to avoid replace the potentiometers...if the noise return.... i think they return, but not so bad as before the "treatment".
Check all trimpots too.... in advance, make marks of their position...one dot in the board and another aligned painting over the trimpot.... and go moving from left to rigth,as oxide will create a lot of problems..do it dry when starting...and them use the WD40 or a better contact cleaner.
First of all, clean all board with a brush.... remove the old board resine... something factory used, to old sets, covering the boad in the solder side, alcohol will dissolve,also Kerozene,that is Jet plane fuel, and many solvents used to dilute paint will help (do not use thinner!) the material used to cover the board, in the copper side, use to absorb watter, and i could fix noises just using a hair drier under the PC board..... clean all dust, do not use watter or any other material over transformers..and take care of alcohol that can destroy plastics...check if alcohol can destroy your painting.... passing it in some corner to check.... so, use it to clean your boards, both sides, as alcohol do not erase silk screen parts numbers and values...but.... to have guaranteed results..test alcohol in those parts too before start with a brush..
Avoid alcohol in the front panel, in special the transparent plastic... more safe to use Kerosene (the aviation jet plane fuel)
All switches need to have WD40 in long jets during the time you will be pushing buttons on and off.
I made that hundred of times.... had one or two troubles, because humidity penetrated the transformer, producing leakages and electrical shocks.....had to keep it under the Sun for one entire morning only..
The WD40 and those movements, are not a guarantee to fix the potentiometer.... but normally reduce the problem to an acceptable level, and also, turns clear when the only possible solution is the replacement of the unit.
I do not want to shock you too much guys, but normally i remove transformer and the unit goes into a small childreen plastic swiming pool, with a lot of strong soap and brush... and it stay there, as a submarine for hours...... after dry, i will start the WD40 and the rest of cleaning..... of course, wooden cabinets must be removed.....oh!..i love to wash those things.
But really, in this thread you have Eva, good to follow her advises...she is very competent.
regards,
Carlos
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.