Hi all,
This is my first post here. Can someone help me identify the capacitor in the attached image please?
I recently bought a pair of Epos ES22, sold to me as having one with a non-working tweeter. Initially I thought the tweeter was blown but upon closer inspection it could be the capacitor on the negative wire to the tweeter has failed instead. It's possible the tweeter itself is fine: the diaphragm is intact and the coil too. It could do with new ferro-fluid but that's besides the point right now.
I've had the multi-meter to the binding posts and to the bare tweeter wires (the tweeter is disconnected). The red/positive terminal gives me a continuity sound upon testing, but the black/negative does not. As mentioned, the black/neg side is the one with the capacitor you (hopefully) see in this post.
Thanks in advance!
G.
This is my first post here. Can someone help me identify the capacitor in the attached image please?
I recently bought a pair of Epos ES22, sold to me as having one with a non-working tweeter. Initially I thought the tweeter was blown but upon closer inspection it could be the capacitor on the negative wire to the tweeter has failed instead. It's possible the tweeter itself is fine: the diaphragm is intact and the coil too. It could do with new ferro-fluid but that's besides the point right now.
I've had the multi-meter to the binding posts and to the bare tweeter wires (the tweeter is disconnected). The red/positive terminal gives me a continuity sound upon testing, but the black/negative does not. As mentioned, the black/neg side is the one with the capacitor you (hopefully) see in this post.
Thanks in advance!
G.
Attachments
Hello,
it could easily be 6uF 630V. I suggest you measure resistance across tweeter terminals as well.
Kind regards
Marko
How much resistance does the meter read once you connect it to the tweeter terminal when the tweeter is completely out of the circuit?
Really great to have replies already folks, thanks for the response.
mkusan & Lojzek: This is the first time I've used a multi-meter, so please excuse my ignorance and clumsy language regarding the multi-meter: The reading I get for resistance, with the tweeter sat on my desk and the lowest setting of 200 selected on the multi-meter is "05.3". The label on the tweeter says 6-ohm.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
I have a brand new diaphragm here from the Epos ES14, which apparently used either the same or very similar tweeter, and when putting one of those onto the old tweeter the resistance goes up to 0.60. The diaphragms look identical (same 25mm aluminum dome).
Ugg10: Tried calling them, they must still be off for Christmas as the call rings off with no answer.
mkusan & Lojzek: This is the first time I've used a multi-meter, so please excuse my ignorance and clumsy language regarding the multi-meter: The reading I get for resistance, with the tweeter sat on my desk and the lowest setting of 200 selected on the multi-meter is "05.3". The label on the tweeter says 6-ohm.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
I have a brand new diaphragm here from the Epos ES14, which apparently used either the same or very similar tweeter, and when putting one of those onto the old tweeter the resistance goes up to 0.60. The diaphragms look identical (same 25mm aluminum dome).
Ugg10: Tried calling them, they must still be off for Christmas as the call rings off with no answer.
Thanks for the information bicefalo! You say custom made, do you think I will find a suitable replacement from their current range?
Are you sure? 1,6 uF in series with the tweeter is unusually small value, even if
we assume that the tweeter is 8 ohm that would give us 12000 Hz high-pass filter.
Kind regards
Marko
I see from the posted photo:
ICW SA Iu6 J 630 V
ICW = manufactor
SA = series
1u6 = 1,6 uF capacitance
J = Tolerance: +/- 5%
630V = 630 Volts
pretty sure.....
ICW SA Iu6 J 630 V
ICW = manufactor
SA = series
1u6 = 1,6 uF capacitance
J = Tolerance: +/- 5%
630V = 630 Volts
pretty sure.....
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Capacitor value, suggested at 4.7 to 3.3 uF
I've had an email in response to a question about the cap's value I sent to a loudspeaker repairer. He said it's likely between 4.7 to 3.3 uF.
I have read that on the ES14 it was 3.3uF on some models and 2.2uF on others. If the ES22 share a very similar tweeter to the ES14 - and they're both definitely 25mm aluminium dome types) then we're narrowing it down. But I also read they swapped from electrolytic to polypropylene. I haven't a clue what the difference is there. I am sure as has been commented here that the ES22 is poly though.
I've had an email in response to a question about the cap's value I sent to a loudspeaker repairer. He said it's likely between 4.7 to 3.3 uF.
I have read that on the ES14 it was 3.3uF on some models and 2.2uF on others. If the ES22 share a very similar tweeter to the ES14 - and they're both definitely 25mm aluminium dome types) then we're narrowing it down. But I also read they swapped from electrolytic to polypropylene. I haven't a clue what the difference is there. I am sure as has been commented here that the ES22 is poly though.
If it is the only components in series with the tweeter ( 6db oct. filter ) , it makes sense to me
Thank you bicefalo. From your link I have found this:
(CCESA-130)- 1.6uF 630Vdc Claritycap ESA Range polypropylene | Hifi Collective
Do you think the above would be a suitable replacement then?
(CCESA-130)- 1.6uF 630Vdc Claritycap ESA Range polypropylene | Hifi Collective
Do you think the above would be a suitable replacement then?
I am sorry but I never tried ESA series....but are suitable repacements.
I do not know if it's worth it, the difference may be minimal.
Tolerance is ±3% against +/- 5% , a little better...
Cheers.
I do not know if it's worth it, the difference may be minimal.
Tolerance is ±3% against +/- 5% , a little better...
Cheers.
The value of the cap is likely 1.6 uF because Epos is known for its high XO frequency designs and secondly you can verify the value by comparing to similar 630Vdc rated ones, measuring cap diameter and length (25 x 34mm).
This is a 5" polycone bass system, AFAIK. Usually Epos and Mordaunt Short crossed to the metal tweeter with a 2.2uF cap in positive polarity. I don't know exactly what they did with the basses, series or parallel wired. Probably crossing over around 4kHz.
This is a suitable tweeter replacement: H1189-06 27TDFC
Not far different from the original tweeter, IMO. 1.6uF or 2.2uF will scarcely be audible. Don't let any notions of prefection blind you to a good replacement. This stuff is rough and ready at best. I could design a much better filter than Epos here, but it all becomes a matter of taste and ability to go loud in the end.
If the tweeter sounds overly loud, we can fix that with a couple of $1 resistors.
This is a suitable tweeter replacement: H1189-06 27TDFC
Not far different from the original tweeter, IMO. 1.6uF or 2.2uF will scarcely be audible. Don't let any notions of prefection blind you to a good replacement. This stuff is rough and ready at best. I could design a much better filter than Epos here, but it all becomes a matter of taste and ability to go loud in the end.
If the tweeter sounds overly loud, we can fix that with a couple of $1 resistors.
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