Help requested with Epson Powerlite 8000i, ballast bypass, black screen

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Hello Everyone,

I recently purchased a used Epson PowerLite 8000i which did not have a blub. When powered on the unit would go into standby with a blinking orange light, then go to a red light on the blub indicator.

I read around the forum and figured out which wires controlled the ballast. I measured them and found out which one was the starter for the ballast and which siginaled a positive "on" signal.

I shorted the "on" signal. This worked and the projector now when turned on goes from orange and standby to blinking green then to steady green which means it should be working.

However the screen is blank in the lens (dark). It starts off bright when first plugged in, then flickers some, then goes black and that is it. It stays black, if i plug in a composite input the bottom of the screen will have a TINY flicker but that is it. And yes I am shining a light where the old light would be, I can see light coming through the lens.

I looked around and there seems to be a bulb temperature sensor which would normally make contact with the bulb housing. I shorted this and it instantly reports a temperature failure light. So I purchased some 1 Ohm resistors and tried to short the thermal sensor with 1 ohm, 2 ohm, 3 ohm, and 5 ohm resistance.. All show a thermal error.

If i remove the resistors and try again with out them I again get a steady green light which indicates everthing should be ok.

So i'm stuck and looking for ideas. :smash:

Any help would be appreciated.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Alright well... I kept playing with the unit and ended up dismanteling the ENTIRE projector. I found a service manual for a similar Epson projector online and that is how I discovered more information.

The diagram I posted definately bypasses the ballast. The thing I found that I thought was a light sensor was actually a thermal sensor for the bulb. The thing I thought was a thermal sensor was actually a sensor that detects if a new light bulb has been installed in the projector.

The new bulb will have a 100ma fuse on it. When you install the lamp in the projector it makes contact with the pins on the small circuit board that I took a picture of. This will reset a setting inside the projector so that it detects a new lamp has been installed then it grounds the fuse and blows it on the lamp so that it can't be read as new again.

So those contacts for the lamp do not need to be connected unless your projector won't remain with a steady green light, in this case the projector thinks that there is a lamp installed but that it is too old to function correctly.

Anyways, after looking at everything, and putting it all back together, I have come to the conclusion that the LCD is shot on this projector. The service manual I have for another epson projector has a very long flow chart that you can go through to diagnose problems. After going through the long list, it says that I need to replace the optical engine (aka 3-LCD assembly). It does not function with a PC or with the composite plugs, only a slight 1 line flicker every now and then. I don't know what else to look for or try, but the LCD will only turn black and not display anything else. I can get audio out of the built in speakers and the power light does remain steady green and the power button functions correctly, so unless someone has any other ideas...

I am pronouncing this projecter DEAD.
 
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