Hello all!
I was given this RadioShack 250watt stereo amp. The amp blows the missing fuse in the picture below the second the amp is powered on. I had originally thought the capacitor (one missing) was shorted, so I removed it, but that was not the cause. The power supply appears OK with the positive and negative showing right at 40v. From left to right the power transistors are as listed:
2sc5200
2sc5200
2sa1943
2sa1943
2sc5200
2sc5200
2sa1943
2sa1943
Any suggestions on what to test next? Could one of the power transistors be blown, is there any method for checking while soldered to the board?
Many thanks
Andy
I was given this RadioShack 250watt stereo amp. The amp blows the missing fuse in the picture below the second the amp is powered on. I had originally thought the capacitor (one missing) was shorted, so I removed it, but that was not the cause. The power supply appears OK with the positive and negative showing right at 40v. From left to right the power transistors are as listed:
2sc5200
2sc5200
2sa1943
2sa1943
2sc5200
2sc5200
2sa1943
2sa1943
Any suggestions on what to test next? Could one of the power transistors be blown, is there any method for checking while soldered to the board?
Many thanks
Andy

It is certainly plausible that the output transistors are shorted. Assuming you have a multi-meter, check the continuity (or use the diode check) between each leg of the transistors. You won't get the correct diode voltage with the part on the board, but you can at least see if they are shorted.
Once you check the outputs, don't stop there; check the drivers and any other transistors as well. Good luck with the repair.
Regards,
David
Once you check the outputs, don't stop there; check the drivers and any other transistors as well. Good luck with the repair.
Regards,
David
I found it! The first 2sc5200 on the very left is shorted! I removed each one till it stopped blowing fuses. Searching reviled that the 2sc5200 has a matching 2sa1943, how do I know which one of the 2sa1943s is it's pair?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
first check that nothing across the output
is making a shortcut
also if you can, inspect the backside of pcb, looking for something causing shortcut or looking like burnt
check the wiring for something bad
try to see if there is something looking like burnt
(black or miscoloured) by heat in the pcb
around those 8 big white power resistors
and close to output rail + the power transistors would be places to inspect
one thing is clear
there IS a shortcut somewhere
a shortcut that is in the power output stage
or something else that cause very high current to flow in output
It may be one of those 8 power transistors
that has got an internal shortcut.
There is a lot of work to see, if one or several of those 8 transistors are damaged
I guess you have to remove them and do some measuring on them
with your multimeter.
is making a shortcut
also if you can, inspect the backside of pcb, looking for something causing shortcut or looking like burnt
check the wiring for something bad
try to see if there is something looking like burnt
(black or miscoloured) by heat in the pcb
around those 8 big white power resistors
and close to output rail + the power transistors would be places to inspect
one thing is clear
there IS a shortcut somewhere
a shortcut that is in the power output stage
or something else that cause very high current to flow in output
It may be one of those 8 power transistors
that has got an internal shortcut.
There is a lot of work to see, if one or several of those 8 transistors are damaged
I guess you have to remove them and do some measuring on them
with your multimeter.
It would be very unusual for it not to be the ones in the pair next to it. There are two transistors per rail per channel on that amp. I would personally replace them all with the MJL transistors from motorola (free if you can get samples).
This is going to be used as a subwoofer amp, is the matching still important or can I simply replace the 2sc5200 by itself?
longblock454 said:I found it! The first 2sc5200 on the very left is shorted! I removed each one till it stopped blowing fuses. Searching reviled that the 2sc5200 has a matching 2sa1943, how do I know which one of the 2sa1943s is it's pair?
Thanks again.
they really are not pairs by 2 and 2 like that (2SC5200/2SA1943)
----------------------------------
for each channel, left and right, like this:
----------------------------------
there are 2 x 2SC5200 in parallel with each its own WHITE power resistor
and 2 x 2SA1943 in parallel the same way
2 transistors on the positive voltage side (NPN = 2SC5200)
and 2 on the negative voltage side (PNP = 2SA1943)
Remove the bad one.
And buy & replace with one new 2SC5200
stay with 2SC5200, as much as you can
change to something else will probably only cause problems.
By the way,
2SC5200 and 2SA1943 are among the best Power Transistors you can find.
So, you have a very good power amplifier there.
Hope you get it to work with only replacing that one device.
What caused the 2SC5200 to become damaged is one important question
If that whatever problem still is around, then some transistor may blow again.
But hopefully was a temporary SHORCUT across the Speaker Output terminal.
By some reason caused by the former user 😉
change to something else will probably only cause problems.
By the way,
2SC5200 and 2SA1943 are among the best Power Transistors you can find.
So, you have a very good power amplifier there.
Hope you get it to work with only replacing that one device.
What caused the 2SC5200 to become damaged is one important question

If that whatever problem still is around, then some transistor may blow again.
But hopefully was a temporary SHORCUT across the Speaker Output terminal.
By some reason caused by the former user 😉
Many thanks to all! I was just given this amp today, so I don't know any history. I'll post my results when I receive the new 2sc5200.
Andy
Andy
also check the emitter resistor for that transistor. many times the resistor will open when the transistor fails.
The emitter resistors are those what rectangles. they should measure .22 ohms each or close to it.
Zc
The emitter resistors are those what rectangles. they should measure .22 ohms each or close to it.
Zc
you probably have one of the 2SA1943 transistors shorted also. on all the output transistors, use an ohmmeter to check between the center (collector) and the lead on the far right (emitter). they should read open. if one shows just a few ohms or less, it's shorted.
I think I may have more problems. The T220 transistor (C4793) with the golden heat sink on the very left just below the outputs is getting to about a Zillion degrees within 60 seconds of being powered up!
All of the emitter resisters measure .3 ohms in circuit. I unsolder all of the outputs and it does look like one of the 2SA1943s were also shorted.
More to come, many thanks.
More to come, many thanks.
Many thanks to all, a new 2sa1943 and 2sc5200 has done the trick! The amp now functions normally and only cost ~$5 to repair!
Andy
Andy
🙂
glad it worked out well.
remember, you did the job.
by advices
well done, longblock!
Lineup small forum with audio advices, in person!
glad it worked out well.
remember, you did the job.
by advices
well done, longblock!
Lineup small forum with audio advices, in person!
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