Would it be wise to use the other unused board ( with the new components) the next time I power up ?
just in case, OS pcbs, check continuity between all Cascode transistor bases (fed with C wires), same as continuity between all driven transistor bases (fed with D wires)
and - what's going on with missing bolts?
and - what's going on with missing bolts?
Would it be wise to use the other unused board ( with the new components) the next time I power up ?
your choice, which one (reworked) you're trusting more in
That’s where the positive and negative wires go ( when connected)just in case, OS pcbs, check continuity between all Cascode transistor bases (fed with C wires), same as continuity between all driven transistor bases (fed with D wires)
and - what's going on with missing bolts?
Remember continuity between heatsink and output devices, should be in megaohms
Do you have a dim bulb tester for first powering / start up? Can rescue your build if anything is wrong.
Only a thought!
Cheers
Dirk
Only a thought!
Cheers
Dirk
I wish I knew , apparently it’s linked to the thermostat ( which is new ) , in fact all parts are now new .Out of curiosity, what would have caused the resistor to burn?
Bulb tester or series resistors could save some money and time on burned parts..
Early in the "New Stasis Front End" thread someone asked about rail voltages and NP said 30V to 60V with the circuit as shown. It's not surprising that some changes are needed when you plan on applying power supply voltage to the board that's beyond that range. R29 burned because it was a .5W part trying to dissipate 1.86W. He was sent to the spirit world very quickly.I wish I knew , apparently it’s linked to the thermostat ( which is new ) , in fact all parts are now new .
Yes. Those "normally closed" terminals in the thermostat will open up at the trip point, "saving" the amp. Your R29 was able to pretend he was an open thermostat contact ("T" on schematic), once he burned up..
On the original boards that I removed the speaker wires ( red & black twisted together) both went to the board next to each other, on the new FE boards there is an OUT and a GND , Do I connect the speaker positive and negative directly to the OUT & GND or should the GND connect to the GND on the the aluminium plate and then connect to the negative speaker post ?
I always run speaker minus directly to star ground on rectifier caps, shortest path for high currents
You should take a look in the pdf file I left here, first part is very academic, last part is very hands on, wirring a amplifier the best way, with lowest possible noise, plus it has pictures, which was very appealing to me 🙂
I will do that now , I did intend to when you mentioned it before but I was so wrapped up in getting the amp going that I forgot.
Cheers
Cheers
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