"Destroy"? Yeah, pretty much.
The bottom/end of the spindle appears to be "folded over" the margins of the clip, either swaged, or the original clip gets installed somehow such that little alternating "fingers" (like castle parapet battlements) go below and abut the swaged over end.
Anyone scrutinizing the spindle well (I used a 20x jeweler's loupe) can see how this is assembled, unfortunately I didn't have a fine enough needle point that I could use which would hold up the the amount of torque necessary to pop the clip out.
The idea of using some glue is good. Chances of this ball wearing out against Torlon OR sapphire are very slight and the surface grading/imperfections would be SO slight there shouldn't be enough residual friction to make any detectable noise. Doubt the/any glue will stick to the Si3N4 ceramic substrate anyway, but with such a smooth surface, turning a little shouldn't matter. I'll just add a dab of MILSPEC grease, pop the ball in and reassemble like I did last night.
Just taking it apart and cleaning out all the crud (definitely rust/iron oxide staining of the oil above the ball)toned down more of the rumble I had been hearing.
So it's incremental steps towards making it as good as it can get, and I'm not in a financial position to buy, for example, a TD124 with a replacement spindle, or something even better.
The bottom/end of the spindle appears to be "folded over" the margins of the clip, either swaged, or the original clip gets installed somehow such that little alternating "fingers" (like castle parapet battlements) go below and abut the swaged over end.
Anyone scrutinizing the spindle well (I used a 20x jeweler's loupe) can see how this is assembled, unfortunately I didn't have a fine enough needle point that I could use which would hold up the the amount of torque necessary to pop the clip out.
The idea of using some glue is good. Chances of this ball wearing out against Torlon OR sapphire are very slight and the surface grading/imperfections would be SO slight there shouldn't be enough residual friction to make any detectable noise. Doubt the/any glue will stick to the Si3N4 ceramic substrate anyway, but with such a smooth surface, turning a little shouldn't matter. I'll just add a dab of MILSPEC grease, pop the ball in and reassemble like I did last night.
Just taking it apart and cleaning out all the crud (definitely rust/iron oxide staining of the oil above the ball)toned down more of the rumble I had been hearing.
So it's incremental steps towards making it as good as it can get, and I'm not in a financial position to buy, for example, a TD124 with a replacement spindle, or something even better.
The super glue works fine with the Si3N4 ball. I have used it multiple times. Heat gun to break free in the future. I had an inverted bearing converted to a larger size by Applied Fidelity (deceased). He machined the spindle smooth and did not glue it in. Sure enough you could hear it occasionally. He recommended adding glue. Seems like you've got things under control!
Steve Craig's last email to me said "It sounds like you're having some fun" and I didn't detect or suspect a bit of irony/sarcasm in that comment.
Like learning to fix the FM tuners in ADCOMs (I've posted elsewhere on this), update/rebuild/calibrate ADCOM amps, preamps, REVOX RtR decks and more (like keeping a 30 year old former military HMMWV going), farming (small acreage), and more, it IS fun. Challenging sometimes, and I ask myself often "did the guy who designed/engineered this product ever USE one?"
Like learning to fix the FM tuners in ADCOMs (I've posted elsewhere on this), update/rebuild/calibrate ADCOM amps, preamps, REVOX RtR decks and more (like keeping a 30 year old former military HMMWV going), farming (small acreage), and more, it IS fun. Challenging sometimes, and I ask myself often "did the guy who designed/engineered this product ever USE one?"
If you can, try a thick grease, like the one used in front axles, or Teflon added grease.
Front axle grease is sold in small tubes of about 100 grams here.
Industrial grease packs start at 500 grams.
There are grades in grease, the series is EP1, EP2 and so on, you can look up what is used in your country. P is the pressure figure, and that indicates whether it is for light or heavy duty.
I would use a ball bearing grade, or stronger as it is a low speed machine, but the low torque of the motor can be an issue.
There are damping greases used in camera lenses, the red garage grease sold in Germany works fine in Soviet camera lenses.
Just get the smallest pack, they are common grades once the pack is above 4 kilos, which is kind of excessive unless you have equipment that needs it, like trucks, farm equipment and so on.
And please compare the unit price for large and small quantities, sometimes the small packs are expensive, and aged, as in made too long back, and the oil is separating out. That is not useful.
Front axle grease is sold in small tubes of about 100 grams here.
Industrial grease packs start at 500 grams.
There are grades in grease, the series is EP1, EP2 and so on, you can look up what is used in your country. P is the pressure figure, and that indicates whether it is for light or heavy duty.
I would use a ball bearing grade, or stronger as it is a low speed machine, but the low torque of the motor can be an issue.
There are damping greases used in camera lenses, the red garage grease sold in Germany works fine in Soviet camera lenses.
Just get the smallest pack, they are common grades once the pack is above 4 kilos, which is kind of excessive unless you have equipment that needs it, like trucks, farm equipment and so on.
And please compare the unit price for large and small quantities, sometimes the small packs are expensive, and aged, as in made too long back, and the oil is separating out. That is not useful.