Long story short, I have had a Boston Acoustics Soundware XS cinema 2.1 in my RV for many years. It was perfect, except for the gaping hole of mids that it missed because it has little cubes and an 8" sub.
Well, it finally died in a rather crispy fashion. Sometimes it works, other times it likes to smell funny and quit playing. I stripped all the SP and amp off the plate and I want to cut a new plate and re-power it.... mostly because I hate throwing away perfectly good drivers. I'll use the cubes for some other project and instead use some c-notes I just put together for L/R.
Looking for a board amp (or a standalone that I can hack) to repower this 2.1.
I found a ton of very questionable (sketchy AF) choices on Amazon with dubious reviews, but thought you folks might know a good bet for what I'm looking for. I thought about repairing it, but nothing looks obviously damaged, and I'm only fair with a soldering iron.
Well, it finally died in a rather crispy fashion. Sometimes it works, other times it likes to smell funny and quit playing. I stripped all the SP and amp off the plate and I want to cut a new plate and re-power it.... mostly because I hate throwing away perfectly good drivers. I'll use the cubes for some other project and instead use some c-notes I just put together for L/R.
Looking for a board amp (or a standalone that I can hack) to repower this 2.1.
- Thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of 50-plus wrms for L/R and around 100wrms for the sub
- It doubles as a music source, so bluetooth would be lovely. I really don't like BT, but it beats having my phone tethered to the plate.
- should have an adjustable crossover so I can match the c-notes to the sub
- RCA or 3.5mm input is fine. TV is old enough that it doesn't have optical
I found a ton of very questionable (sketchy AF) choices on Amazon with dubious reviews, but thought you folks might know a good bet for what I'm looking for. I thought about repairing it, but nothing looks obviously damaged, and I'm only fair with a soldering iron.
Only thing in the RV that is 12v is the lighting. I could run 12v to the system, but this sure would be nice with a 3A/120v load instead of a 30A/12v load. I already have 10A of 120v there.
Plus, since I don't actually use a coach battery, the draw would come from the 12v regulator/charger/converter, which I think is only good for 10A
Plus, since I don't actually use a coach battery, the draw would come from the 12v regulator/charger/converter, which I think is only good for 10A
To be more precise, this is an RV in a permanent spot. It doesn't move. So replace the word "RV" with "small summer cottage."
An unmovable object 😀
Im sure theres many options from parts express etc for physically small 2.1 blootoof class d units.
Maybe have a look there and see if anything suits ?
Im sure theres many options from parts express etc for physically small 2.1 blootoof class d units.
Maybe have a look there and see if anything suits ?
I've spent the last 5 days shopping parts-express, Amazon, Ali, and Ebay. The only one that P-E has is advertised 50/50/100 max, but tests out to about 13wrms L/R and 30wrms sub. The other sources all seem to have a million options with mixed reviews.
Hence why I'm here asking for recommendations. I was hoping someone here knew of a good bet.
Hence why I'm here asking for recommendations. I was hoping someone here knew of a good bet.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/10050061....productlist.search_results.10.46b3217eqTvaJM
The diligent Chinese have done for you
(I do not sell and am not responsible for advice)))
The diligent Chinese have done for you
(I do not sell and am not responsible for advice)))
https://aliexpress.ru/item/10050061....productlist.search_results.10.46b3217eqTvaJM
The diligent Chinese have done for you🙂
You will need a suitable power supply (not included).
(I do not sell and am not responsible for advice)))
The diligent Chinese have done for you🙂
You will need a suitable power supply (not included).
(I do not sell and am not responsible for advice)))
I found that one along with about 6000 others. Unfortunately, that particular unit is advertised as max wattage, and only puts out about 1/8th of that at RMS based on reviews
What I'm wondering is... has anyone tried something like this and found a solid performer. I don't want to order a random amp and wait two weeks only to find out I wasted $30 and my time.
Are there brands/types any of you have tried and found to be a decent performer?
What I'm wondering is... has anyone tried something like this and found a solid performer. I don't want to order a random amp and wait two weeks only to find out I wasted $30 and my time.
Are there brands/types any of you have tried and found to be a decent performer?
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 Mod | diyAudio
Tried and tested. It should meet most of your requirements. Just beware of the ones claiming to use "original" chips or don't have a picture of 2 TPA3116 chips side by side under the heatsink.
If you need a high-pass filter for the sats: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/crossover-in-2-1-amplifiers.398741/#post-7338224
Not great but not too terrible either 🙂
AFAIK, high quality, well-designed 2.1 amps are rather rare these days. I've only seen a few done right (high pass + adjustable crossover + good components), DIY of course.
Tried and tested. It should meet most of your requirements. Just beware of the ones claiming to use "original" chips or don't have a picture of 2 TPA3116 chips side by side under the heatsink.
If you need a high-pass filter for the sats: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/crossover-in-2-1-amplifiers.398741/#post-7338224
Not great but not too terrible either 🙂
AFAIK, high quality, well-designed 2.1 amps are rather rare these days. I've only seen a few done right (high pass + adjustable crossover + good components), DIY of course.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Class D
- Help me revive a 2.1 system