Ok, I went to my local electronics shop to buy all of the components that you recommended.
First I checked the two 150ohm resistors and they are fine, then I check the zener diode and it is fine. In the store the loser counterman who works there for 20 years could not tell what kind of zener diode it is so I did not buy it. They did not have original replacement but they had IRF3205 FETs, they did have all original op amps and I bought them with sockets. I got the UF 0.1 mylar capacitor that is missing. They did not have original mpsw42 and mpsw56, they had NTE replacement only so I bought those NTE255, NTE129P. They did not have 47.5 ohm resistors but had 47 ohm so I bought those in higher wattage. They did not have the 2180VCA or the loser guy did not know how to find it. It all costed me $27(cheap).
So I bought what ever I could find that works, went home, pulled the op amps easily, it was just way to easy so I don't know why you tried to scare me there.
I installed the sockets as you recommended, removed one of the resistors that goes between the legs of op amp and installed it on the other side of the board. Placed the op amps in the sockets. Installed the resistors, regulators, and everything that was missing. Placed some heat paste on the board, clamped it down and went to test it on two 10" subs. I was expecting amp not to work.
To my suprise the amp turned on and started pushing the two tens like a brand new powerfull amp, it is nice clean powerfull bass it rattled my car. I let the amp work for about one hour and it did not even get hot and it was pushing those speakers like crazy. This amp is great it has true power. This is the first time that I fixed an amp in my life and it is because of you Perry Babin.
Thanks a lot man, you helped me a lot.
PS: Perry Babin RULES!!!
First I checked the two 150ohm resistors and they are fine, then I check the zener diode and it is fine. In the store the loser counterman who works there for 20 years could not tell what kind of zener diode it is so I did not buy it. They did not have original replacement but they had IRF3205 FETs, they did have all original op amps and I bought them with sockets. I got the UF 0.1 mylar capacitor that is missing. They did not have original mpsw42 and mpsw56, they had NTE replacement only so I bought those NTE255, NTE129P. They did not have 47.5 ohm resistors but had 47 ohm so I bought those in higher wattage. They did not have the 2180VCA or the loser guy did not know how to find it. It all costed me $27(cheap).
So I bought what ever I could find that works, went home, pulled the op amps easily, it was just way to easy so I don't know why you tried to scare me there.
I installed the sockets as you recommended, removed one of the resistors that goes between the legs of op amp and installed it on the other side of the board. Placed the op amps in the sockets. Installed the resistors, regulators, and everything that was missing. Placed some heat paste on the board, clamped it down and went to test it on two 10" subs. I was expecting amp not to work.
To my suprise the amp turned on and started pushing the two tens like a brand new powerfull amp, it is nice clean powerfull bass it rattled my car. I let the amp work for about one hour and it did not even get hot and it was pushing those speakers like crazy. This amp is great it has true power. This is the first time that I fixed an amp in my life and it is because of you Perry Babin.
Thanks a lot man, you helped me a lot.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
PS: Perry Babin RULES!!!
WoW!!! I wish all of my MTX amp repairs went that easy. You must have been lucky and skilled as well. And yes, Perry is a great teacher. i just need to get a computer with wireless internet set up near my test bench so i can follow his and others instructions without getting sidetracked. I just hope that those NTE replacement parts last for you. i have heard many bad things about them and i have been warned not to use them but I too have used them in a pinch and no problems yet
shagone said:WoW!!! I wish all of my MTX amp repairs went that easy. You must have been lucky and skilled as well. And yes, Perry is a great teacher. i just need to get a computer with wireless internet set up near my test bench so i can follow his and others instructions without getting sidetracked. I just hope that those NTE replacement parts last for you. i have heard many bad things about them and i have been warned not to use them but I too have used them in a pinch and no problems yet
Well many people who install the amps themselfs are stupid about electronics and thats the reason why amps fail most of the times. They bridge the speakers wrong, they got lose ground, too small of a guage cables, not enough air space for amps, etc etc.
I don't max out my amps at all and they don't even get warm so I doubt that even generic parts will fail in my case.
Yes, you were lucky. Sometimes, these amps can be difficult.
You wouldn't believe the damage I've seen from people trying to replace the op-amps in amps like yours. Most people are working with Radio Shack type soldering irons and braid and that's makes the job tough.
Check the output (across the speaker terminals) for DC voltage. If it has more than 0.1v and the DC voltage varies with the gain control, the 2155/2180 has likely failed (or is injured).
You wouldn't believe the damage I've seen from people trying to replace the op-amps in amps like yours. Most people are working with Radio Shack type soldering irons and braid and that's makes the job tough.
Check the output (across the speaker terminals) for DC voltage. If it has more than 0.1v and the DC voltage varies with the gain control, the 2155/2180 has likely failed (or is injured).
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