Good news everyone!
I have gotten two designs accepted!
The story:
We had been shopping (wallpaper and supplies) and had just had lunch. We were eating dessert while my kid was playing by her self and I felt my wife was particularly relaxed. So I showed her this:
And the other colors.
Her: Hey, those are cool!
Me: You think? 😀
Her: Where's the subwoofer?
Me: Below, in the console.
Her: Ok, that's good.
When we got home (and we were finished with setting up the wallpaper) I showed her these (and a few other angles):
And she likes them both!
Me: Are the small ones better than the large ones?
Her: I don't know... Maybe a little.
Me: So which color is best?
Her: The red ones. But we need to exchange the curtains.
Me: 😀
Now what?
I actually found a design I think I can build that my wife likes! Next I'll buy a sonotube (much cheaper and easier to cut) and try to cut it into the shape I want to see how it looks IRL.
/Anton
I have gotten two designs accepted!
The story:
We had been shopping (wallpaper and supplies) and had just had lunch. We were eating dessert while my kid was playing by her self and I felt my wife was particularly relaxed. So I showed her this:

And the other colors.
Her: Hey, those are cool!
Me: You think? 😀
Her: Where's the subwoofer?
Me: Below, in the console.
Her: Ok, that's good.
When we got home (and we were finished with setting up the wallpaper) I showed her these (and a few other angles):


And she likes them both!
Me: Are the small ones better than the large ones?
Her: I don't know... Maybe a little.
Me: So which color is best?
Her: The red ones. But we need to exchange the curtains.
Me: 😀
Now what?
I actually found a design I think I can build that my wife likes! Next I'll buy a sonotube (much cheaper and easier to cut) and try to cut it into the shape I want to see how it looks IRL.
/Anton
My wife has also approved this design. I'll be building something like this, too.... Color, taupe to match our walls. Grille cloth also taupe. We have that already.
My wife has also approved this design. I'll be building something like this, too....
I have gotten two designs accepted!
When we got home (and we were finished with setting up the wallpaper) I showed her these (and a few other angles):
Anton,
Keep the colour something neutral as these speakers have to last longer than a set of curtains. I don't know about where you guys live but in India with our extreme sun we need to change curtains every few years even if we get blackouts to protect the rear of the curtain.
I would look in the palette of cream-beige etc.
While I would very interested in seeing the progress you make I am not showing my wife these. I will be in big trouble if I do, your speakers are gonna look so much better than what I built.🙂
Maybe you can build the bigger towers for the front and the smaller ones for rear surround and centre? Just a thought.
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Now the next step is how to do cabinets, baffle contour and attachment to tube, coating/finishing.. Using self adhesive vinyl for the cylinder gives you easy option to change the colour and even pattern of the "box"
Looking at the room with minimal furniture and presumably concrete/hard walls, makes me recommend a waveguide desing, something like Modula XE. 6,5" woofer and 6,5" waveguide for tweeter to get high directivity.
Looking at the room with minimal furniture and presumably concrete/hard walls, makes me recommend a waveguide desing, something like Modula XE. 6,5" woofer and 6,5" waveguide for tweeter to get high directivity.
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Looks a bit like Dali Fazon
That's the first thing that came to my mind too - the Fazon or the Infinity Cascade
http://www.3dsi.co.za/Infinity/Current Speakers/Cascade/CascadeFrame.htm
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?220925-Veneering-Infinity-Cascade
it can be difficult to cut PVC accurately, and get good fit, etc...I would consider constructing a inner plywood section
and attach the rounded sides to that
Which is why I was thinking fiberglass if one has a form one can make N number of boxes. I think PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate) can be used as a release agent.
Building a Fiberglass Enclosure
http://www.wickedcas.com/gallery/d/7645-3/100_0498.jpg
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/148406-making-dense-nonresonant-material.html
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This makes me happy! 🙂My wife has also approved this design. I'll be building something like this, too.... Color, taupe to match our walls. Grille cloth also taupe. We have that already.
The sun is not a huge problem here in Sweden... I'll try them in a lighter color though 🙂Anton,
Keep the colour something neutral as these speakers have to last longer than a set of curtains. I don't know about where you guys live but in India with our extreme sun we need to change curtains every few years even if we get blackouts to protect the rear of the curtain.
I would look in the palette of cream-beige etc.
While I would very interested in seeing the progress you make I am not showing my wife these. I will be in big trouble if I do, your speakers are gonna look so much better than what I built.🙂
Maybe you can build the bigger towers for the front and the smaller ones for rear surround and centre? Just a thought.
I will of course document the build and upload the photos here, but I have a project I'm doing with my father first. So finished speakers will not be before start of next year I'm afraid.
This design does leave room for adding center and rear speakers, but that's a later project 🙂
Sure does! I think the Fazon looks a little top heavy though.Looks a bit like Dali Fazon
Btw. where I come from (DIY world) speakers only last 2-3 years😀
Almost correct, it's drywall, not concrete. But waveguides are a good idea, I'm looking at tweeters that come with a waveguide/horn, the Fountek NeoCD3.5H and Dayton PHT1-6 both seem alright and are in the correct price range. Do you have any suggestions on other tweeters or tweeter/waveguide combinations that are proven to be good (under 100 USD)? The width should be less than a 6.5" (about 170 mm) to fit the design.Now the next step is how to do cabinets, baffle contour and attachment to tube, coating/finishing.. Using self adhesive vinyl for the cylinder gives you easy option to change the colour and even pattern of the "box"
Looking at the room with minimal furniture and presumably concrete/hard walls, makes me recommend a waveguide desing, something like Modula XE. 6,5" woofer and 6,5" waveguide for tweeter to get high directivity.
Specifically difficult with PVC? There seems to be PP pipes as well if that's better.wise to let your wife decide 😀
it can be difficult to cut PVC accurately, and get good fit, etc
I would consider constructing a inner plywood section
and attach the rounded sides to that
An inner plywood section seems difficult. A colleague suggested I should use a smaller pipe for the black part. That could work, if I find one that is the correct size.
When I bought our current speaker I actually considered the Cascade. Thought they were very pretty at the time, too expensive though.That's the first thing that came to my mind too - the Fazon or the Infinity Cascade
Cascade Frame Page
Veneering Infinity Cascade?
Which is why I was thinking fiberglass if one has a form one can make N number of boxes. I think PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate) can be used as a release agent.
Building a Fiberglass Enclosure
http://www.wickedcas.com/gallery/d/7645-3/100_0498.jpg
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/148406-making-dense-nonresonant-material.html
I've handled composites (I have a masters in leightweight structures), so that's a possibility. But the main reason to buy pipes is that I'm sure that the surface is smooth.
Thanks for the links, I'll read them!
/Anton
A couple of tweeter options more:
speaker trade - mivoc - Einzelchassis - KFT 130 M
CAT 378 Morel
G 25 FFL - 8 Ohm with Waveguide WG 148 R
speaker trade - mivoc - Einzelchassis - KFT 130 M
CAT 378 Morel
G 25 FFL - 8 Ohm with Waveguide WG 148 R
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I always found women like sexy... Long sleek lines, curves, and focal points. Your design looks great, I'm not surprised she likes it.
I would think PVC would work out great for a design like this. I've found PVC quite easy to work with. Just have a good pattern, ( with your cad skills that should not be a problem ) and I would think your design would be fairly simple to do. Cuts easy, sands good and can be extremely rigid.
Here's something I've been working on using PVC...
I would think PVC would work out great for a design like this. I've found PVC quite easy to work with. Just have a good pattern, ( with your cad skills that should not be a problem ) and I would think your design would be fairly simple to do. Cuts easy, sands good and can be extremely rigid.
Here's something I've been working on using PVC...
Attachments
Almost correct, it's drywall, not concrete. But waveguides are a good idea, I'm looking at tweeters that come with a waveguide/horn... Do you have any suggestions on other tweeters or tweeter/waveguide combinations that are proven to be good (under 100 USD)?
When I bought our current speaker I actually considered the Cascade. Thought they were very pretty at the time, too expensive though./Anton
For the tweeter between the Dayton and Fountek I would choose Fountek every time. But remember the Fountek will require some padding it is 95db!. Hence maybe the Model 378 or Visaton 25FFL+ WG148 waveguide would be more suitable.
The Cascade was too expensive for what it did. In fact in my view it did not do anything great but look nice. They had very limited dynamics, and my listening was in a Harman listening room with some of the best of Harman-Lexicon electronics.
Both these are nice but is not the Morel more expensive than $100.
Here's something I've been working on using PVC...
That looks very industrial! 🙂
How about the Faital Pro STH100 (which is incidentally 180 mm wide = same as my design) together with the Beyma CD10Fe? Seems like decent performance for the money.
/Anton
/Anton
Both these are nice but is not the Morel more expensive than $100.
No it is not:
Morel CAT 378 1-1/8" Soft Dome Horn Tweeter | 277-084
One option could also be TW030WA09_10 with a very slightly curved wave guide.
Onni, now you have already ribbon tweeters (Fountek), magnetostatic tweeter (Mivoc), soft domes (Morel, Wavecor), compression driver (Beyma) and metal dome (Visaton) to choose from. So what would suit you sir?
Well... Ideally I would like something that has a reasonably flat response on- and off-axis but with some directivity to reduce effects from wall/ceiling reflections. The frequency needs to be up to about 18 kHz (I can't hear anything above that anyway) and low enough to be able to mate well with a 6" woofer. I think I would prefer something that doesn't feel too harsh/sharp which makes me think that metal domes are less attractive, but I may be wrong.No it is not:
Morel CAT 378 1-1/8" Soft Dome Horn Tweeter | 277-084
One option could also be TW030WA09_10 with a very slightly curved wave guide.
Onni, now you have already ribbon tweeters (Fountek), magnetostatic tweeter (Mivoc), soft domes (Morel, Wavecor), compression driver (Beyma) and metal dome (Visaton) to choose from. So what would suit you sir?
The directivity leads me to horns/waveguides. I have heard a lot of people that like ribbon tweeters best, which landed me in the Fountek, the directivity is however not so good.
/Anton
Fountek ribbon tweeters can't be crossed low enough to make a good 2-way speaker. Even the NeoCD3.5H that I am using is questionable for that. Founteks without the horn are fantastic for 3-ways when we usually aim for minimal directivity.
A rule of thumb to succesful wg-speaker is that the wg width should be same as bass mebrane. Actually the SEAS DXT is too narrow to work below 3kHz. A wide wg as benfit overrules baffle diffractions.
A rule of thumb to succesful wg-speaker is that the wg width should be same as bass mebrane. Actually the SEAS DXT is too narrow to work below 3kHz. A wide wg as benfit overrules baffle diffractions.
Alright, thanks for the info.Fountek ribbon tweeters can't be crossed low enough to make a good 2-way speaker. Even the NeoCD3.5H that I am using is questionable for that. Founteks without the horn are fantastic for 3-ways when we usually aim for minimal directivity.
A rule of thumb to succesful wg-speaker is that the wg width should be same as bass mebrane. Actually the SEAS DXT is too narrow to work below 3kHz. A wide wg as benfit overrules baffle diffractions.
The more I read the more I feel like a waveguide should suite my situation best. It's hard to fit the big ones, but I've tweaked the design a little to accept a 8" waveguide. The Denovo EOS-8 and Faital Pro STH-100 are top candidates.
Heres how the design looks now:

700 mm high, 250 mm pipe (12 mm thickness)
In creme as suggested:

With front removed:

A generic 6.5" truncated driver. (Yes, I cheated with the shape of the waveguide. The elliptic shape was too complicated to do quickly.)
In room:

Looks good? I could fit a larger woofer, but that increases the CTC-distance.
The EOS-8 seems to be used with the Denovo DNA-205 in many kits, but I can't seem to find where I can buy it separately... Any other 1" driver suggestions under 70 USD?
/Anton
Alright, thanks for the info.
The more I read the more I feel like a waveguide should suite my situation best. It's hard to fit the big ones, but I've tweaked the design a little to accept a 8" waveguide. The Denovo EOS-8 and Faital Pro STH-100 are top candidates.
Heres how the design looks now:
![]()
700 mm high, 250 mm pipe (12 mm thickness)
In creme as suggested:
![]()
In room:
![]()
Anton,
These are beautiful.
Just one quick suggestion. If your wife will accept floor standing speakers I would suggest you go that route.
Placing speakers on the cabinet where your CD/DVD player is will cause the resonations of the speaker to vibrate the CD player as well and that is not good.
A floor standing speaker will put the speaker on the floor and hence not on the same cabinet as the CD player. besides you get more volume and you can go 2.5 or even 3/3.5 way.
I would consider 3/3.5 way as it gives you a dedicated midrange and hence you can use a tweeter like the Fountek 3.5.
Thanks! All the kind words makes me want to skip my current project and start building these instead 😉Anton,
These are beautiful.
Just one quick suggestion. If your wife will accept floor standing speakers I would suggest you go that route.
Placing speakers on the cabinet where your CD/DVD player is will cause the resonations of the speaker to vibrate the CD player as well and that is not good.
A floor standing speaker will put the speaker on the floor and hence not on the same cabinet as the CD player. besides you get more volume and you can go 2.5 or even 3/3.5 way.
I would consider 3/3.5 way as it gives you a dedicated midrange and hence you can use a tweeter like the Fountek 3.5.
I'm still considering a floor standing speaker as well. The design for that is complete as seen earlier in the thread (just need to fill in the base). This was just to see if it was possible to make a smaller speaker that could house a waveguide that is about 180 mm wide.
I will not have a problem with vibrations in the console as there is no CD/DVD-player there. I don't use optical devices, so only a computer, the set top box, the amplifier and the broadband router will be in there and they will all be isolated from vibrations using foam.
Floor standing speakers
35-300 Hz: 2 x 8" woofers
300-2.5 kHz: 4 or 5" midrange
2.5-20 kHz: horn + CD (STH100 + Beyma CD10Fe maybe)
And one 12" subwoofer built into the console to fill in below 80 Hz (primarily for HT usage).
Console standing speakers
20-100 Hz: 12" woofer built into console (one for each speaker, 60 cm wider console)
100-2.5 kHz: 6" woofer (possible to fit another one firing down, if that is beneficial. Is the volume large enough?)
2.5-20 kHz: horn + CD (STH100 + Beyma CD10Fe maybe)
This version actually has a little larger total volume for speakers as it is possible to make the subwoofers in the console quite large.
/Anton
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