Trying to decide between miniDSP, DCX2496 or other options. Will be using it as crossover between sub and tops and used to DSP sub(s). I had a miniDSP 2x4HD but it was stolen by the ex when I sold my house. Home system currently consists of:
Tops: Pete Schumacher Apollo 7 MTM
Sub: Stereo Integrity HST18 MKii in 4cu ft sealed
Amp for tops: NAD C375BEE
Amp for sub: Crown K2
Processor: NAD T777
Will also have an outdoor/garage system which will probably consist of some mix of synergy type top and SKRAM subs.
Thoughts?
Tops: Pete Schumacher Apollo 7 MTM
Sub: Stereo Integrity HST18 MKii in 4cu ft sealed
Amp for tops: NAD C375BEE
Amp for sub: Crown K2
Processor: NAD T777
Will also have an outdoor/garage system which will probably consist of some mix of synergy type top and SKRAM subs.
Thoughts?
I have the behringer stuff but I don't use it anymore. Not a big fan of behringer. They are pro systems hence they operate on balanced line. The process of converting to balance line adds in another 3 or 4 op amp stages if I remember correctly. The mini dsp version is much simpler to tweak when connected to a PC.
If you can spare the cash I would ask you to consider the minidsp opendrc DA8. Gives you 8 output.
Oon
If you can spare the cash I would ask you to consider the minidsp opendrc DA8. Gives you 8 output.
Oon
Hi MiniDSP is only good as a sub frequency correction tool & Sub cut off. It is not good enough to provide a signal (does not have the processing power) to your mid & treble speakers.
Care to quantify that for all of us who are happily using miniDSP for this purpose?
The opamps used are the worst possible ones. 1v/usec SR. Its a quiet version of a uA741.
Good SW interface et al but dead for high-end audio. A non-starter. Upgrade those and it might be passable.
THx-RNMarsh
Good SW interface et al but dead for high-end audio. A non-starter. Upgrade those and it might be passable.
THx-RNMarsh
Was this in response to billshurv's post? Still trying to decide on this. Would also eventually like to try to go fully active. Any suggestions for good units for these purposes? Thanks.
Minidsp 4 x 10 outputs 2Vrms , one analog input , one digital input , 8 channels out, sounds good too. I tested it against other dacs and for the price I don't know of anything better. You can always go for the Nanodigi , only digital inputs 8 digital channels out and use dacs of your own choice. If you go the active route you will never look back I assure you...
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The opamps used are the worst possible ones. 1v/usec SR. Its a quiet version of a uA741.
Which is of course completely wrong. But never stops Richard plucking numbers out the air. The great thing about the 4x10 I have is that all the channels are available on I2S pins on the board. If I decide I want a better DAC then I can add one. The paranoid can use a nanoDigi as John has mentioned.
TomChr measured a 4x10 and attached is the 32 tone IMD result. It's none too shabby. So for something you can buy now, will work well and has an upgrade path I think it is excellent and I certainly don't feel I've lost anything by putting it into my system.
I'll not argue with anyone who thinks the only answer isa PC ultimate equaliser with a pro soundcard but I want a single box that gets on with the job. And I'm not scared of a 25c opamp
Attachments
Thoughts?
I chose the Behringer because I wanted a stand alone unit because I have no devices capable of programming MiniDSP. It's not as useful or flexible, depends what you want to do, I try and keep things simple(ish) mostly for the sake of my mental health 🙂
The Behringer is handy for what Scott mentioned above - it's stand alone. No shut down or boot, it's either on or off. I found it easy to use, but I work in pro audio.
It's main problems are a less than stellar analog section and levels that are higher than consumer. The later can lead to noise and loss of fidelity. Going from balanced to un-blanced is as simple as wiring the connectors correctly, nothing else needed.
It's main problems are a less than stellar analog section and levels that are higher than consumer. The later can lead to noise and loss of fidelity. Going from balanced to un-blanced is as simple as wiring the connectors correctly, nothing else needed.
If it's possible, you should find a module and only do your processing in the digital domain from the source, whether that be SPDIF or audio-stripped HDMI.
Adding another ADC->DAC->Opamp into the mix when you can do it much earlier is pointless.
Adding another ADC->DAC->Opamp into the mix when you can do it much earlier is pointless.
Just a small add on , both minidsp 4x10 and nanodigi can work as stand alone units once configured, you only have to connect them to change configurations
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Behringer
Hi
I use the Behringer 2496 x-over for many years, just threw out the active opamp board and put in a passive one, sounds sweet!
I find it easy to set up and try many things out, it is cheap ( here around 200 dollars)and with a little diy work, costing maybe 50 dollars, you got a nice flexible digital 6 way active cross-over.
Tojoko.
Hi
I use the Behringer 2496 x-over for many years, just threw out the active opamp board and put in a passive one, sounds sweet!
I find it easy to set up and try many things out, it is cheap ( here around 200 dollars)and with a little diy work, costing maybe 50 dollars, you got a nice flexible digital 6 way active cross-over.
Tojoko.
Going active cheap...
Hi
Another thing when going active is the need for a 6 ch. pre-amp and 6 power-amps, I got around that with using a nice secondhand Yamaha Rx-V2400 (100 dollars), it has 7 poweramps (130 watts each, 8 ohm), used in multi channel input mode (8 ch) I use 6 of them, power enough and sounds really good. And one extra advantage it has got many digital inputs, and 2 digital outputs, through SOURCE OUT, you can select the one that goes to the Behringer, so flexible in that sense too....I just put in a new very quiet fan that is always on, to cool the amp down, if you do not do that the amp gets very warm....
Tojoko.
Hi
Another thing when going active is the need for a 6 ch. pre-amp and 6 power-amps, I got around that with using a nice secondhand Yamaha Rx-V2400 (100 dollars), it has 7 poweramps (130 watts each, 8 ohm), used in multi channel input mode (8 ch) I use 6 of them, power enough and sounds really good. And one extra advantage it has got many digital inputs, and 2 digital outputs, through SOURCE OUT, you can select the one that goes to the Behringer, so flexible in that sense too....I just put in a new very quiet fan that is always on, to cool the amp down, if you do not do that the amp gets very warm....
Tojoko.
Thank you all for all the advice and opinions. I think I'm leaning towards miniDSP at this point. Trying to decide between 2x4HD and 4x10HD. I just don't know enough about this stuff. I guess what my goal at this point is to find the easiest way to take several sources (probably use a receiver as a way to switch between sources) and send them to a processor (miniDSP?) which will then act as crossover between sub(s) and 2 or 3 way tops and have the ability to eq the bass potentially act as an active crossover for the tops.
Pro amp for the bass and consumer? amp for tops. I don't fully understand the phoenix connector part of the output wiring on the 4x10HD and why it can't just have RCA or XLR (or both) outputs.
I guess what my goal at this point is to find the easiest way to take several sources (probably use a receiver as a way to switch between sources) and send them to a processor (miniDSP?) which will then act as crossover between sub(s) and 2 or 3 way tops and have the ability to eq the bass potentially act as an active crossover for the tops.
Go for the 4x10 if you have the money
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