Hi
As i wrote on pervious threa
i want to build a tube amplifier to use with my
87dB/w/m 6oh 50w speakers (sherwood)
my room is about 3meters on 4.5 meter
and the music i hear is mainly Rock and Alternative rock
my sources are (Sanyo L60 turntable, and a CD player)
most of the amplifiers schemes and project i saw was 14-8 watt (WPC for stereo amplifiers)
I read some info and reviews and i found the the 300b SE
is the most preffered amplifier but i dont know if 8-10wpc output is enough
can you help me choose a tube amp. that will give me the best preformance from my speakers
as you can see there are many schemes and project over the internet
but i still dont know what will be the best for me
please help me
maybe i am looking on the wrong tube type?
i have add below links to the amplifier projects i read and liked so that you could give me recommendations
Thank you
yehonatan sabban 😎
Derek Walton 300b page
http://indigo.ie/~walton/300b.html
Andrea Ciuffoli
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/pse.html
This 18Wpc 300b amplifier
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tubelust/thorsten300b.jpg
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tubelust/300bschem1.gif
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tubelust/300bschem2.gif
another 300b
http://members.home.nl/deckersmoll/grand_olivier_en.htm
and there is also Dave Ewing's #00b amplifier
http://www.geocities.com/k4de/
this is 329b amplifier
http://www.pmillett.addr.com/829b_amplifier.htm
As i wrote on pervious threa
i want to build a tube amplifier to use with my
87dB/w/m 6oh 50w speakers (sherwood)
my room is about 3meters on 4.5 meter
and the music i hear is mainly Rock and Alternative rock
my sources are (Sanyo L60 turntable, and a CD player)
most of the amplifiers schemes and project i saw was 14-8 watt (WPC for stereo amplifiers)
I read some info and reviews and i found the the 300b SE
is the most preffered amplifier but i dont know if 8-10wpc output is enough
can you help me choose a tube amp. that will give me the best preformance from my speakers
as you can see there are many schemes and project over the internet
but i still dont know what will be the best for me
please help me
maybe i am looking on the wrong tube type?
i have add below links to the amplifier projects i read and liked so that you could give me recommendations
Thank you
yehonatan sabban 😎
Derek Walton 300b page
http://indigo.ie/~walton/300b.html
Andrea Ciuffoli
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/pse.html
This 18Wpc 300b amplifier
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tubelust/thorsten300b.jpg
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tubelust/300bschem1.gif
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tubelust/300bschem2.gif
another 300b
http://members.home.nl/deckersmoll/grand_olivier_en.htm
and there is also Dave Ewing's #00b amplifier
http://www.geocities.com/k4de/
this is 329b amplifier
http://www.pmillett.addr.com/829b_amplifier.htm
I have used an 8W amp on 87dB speakers (though my room is bigger than yours). I too mostly listen to rock. I don't think a 300B SE will produce satisfying sound. I currently listen to 96dB speakers on 3.5W amps (1/2 the power, 8 times the sensitivity), and I still wish sometimes that I had a more powerful amp (or higher sensitivity speakers).
Konnichiwa,
First, from experience, with 87db/W/m you need as much power as you can get hold of. With 300B's this means PSE, BUT PSE Sounds MUCh, MUCH worse than SE and in fact, at that point you are better off going Push Pull (I am listening to Push-Pull 45's with 96db/1W/m sensitive open baffle speakers right now - sounds as great as anything i had in my system).
I remember this Amp well. It drove some Watt/Puppy Inspired Speakers (93db/1W/1m 4 Ohm) and mamanged a credible job, but tended to run out of steam when I had really big stuff (Mahler, Ravel/Mussorsky, St Saen) playing.
I think you would be better off with a well designed 2A3 PP Amp (which will cost a lot less than a decent 300B PSE Amp) using "any old EL34 PP Output transformer" and Sovtek 2A3's while spending your money on better (and thus invariably more sensitive) speakers.
If you must have loads of power, consider the 6S33, look here:
http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=285822#post285822
Sayonara
First, from experience, with 87db/W/m you need as much power as you can get hold of. With 300B's this means PSE, BUT PSE Sounds MUCh, MUCH worse than SE and in fact, at that point you are better off going Push Pull (I am listening to Push-Pull 45's with 96db/1W/m sensitive open baffle speakers right now - sounds as great as anything i had in my system).
Ysabban said:
I remember this Amp well. It drove some Watt/Puppy Inspired Speakers (93db/1W/1m 4 Ohm) and mamanged a credible job, but tended to run out of steam when I had really big stuff (Mahler, Ravel/Mussorsky, St Saen) playing.
I think you would be better off with a well designed 2A3 PP Amp (which will cost a lot less than a decent 300B PSE Amp) using "any old EL34 PP Output transformer" and Sovtek 2A3's while spending your money on better (and thus invariably more sensitive) speakers.
If you must have loads of power, consider the 6S33, look here:
http://diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=285822#post285822
Sayonara
Thanks
if i remember correct
my target is to produce sound level 0f 100dB (which is very loud i guess (120db - jetplane)
and as i saw on other threads
87db - 1w
90db - 2w
93db - 4w
96db - 8w
99db - 16w
so getting a amplifier with 16w output is enough? and i right?
but i realy dont know what the 6 ohm means?
i saw amplifier with 4 ohm and 8 ohm,
if i connect my 6ohm speakers to an 8 ohm amplifier output' is it o.k?
and as for the 6l6pp do u have any source for schematics
if i remember correct
my target is to produce sound level 0f 100dB (which is very loud i guess (120db - jetplane)
and as i saw on other threads
87db - 1w
90db - 2w
93db - 4w
96db - 8w
99db - 16w
so getting a amplifier with 16w output is enough? and i right?
but i realy dont know what the 6 ohm means?
i saw amplifier with 4 ohm and 8 ohm,
if i connect my 6ohm speakers to an 8 ohm amplifier output' is it o.k?
and as for the 6l6pp do u have any source for schematics
Re: Re: Help me choose a Tube Amp. Project
for all the 2a3 Amplifiers i saw their output is between 3-6.5w
this is less then the 300b,
if you can direct me to a better schematics, it will be great!!
and for the 6L6 PP , what schematic you suggest?
i have found one schematics on
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babe...ubes/schemas/6l6/pp40w6l6.htm&lp=fr_en&tt=url
(sorry for the long url but i translated from french to english using babelfish)
Thank you
for all the 2a3 Amplifiers i saw their output is between 3-6.5w
this is less then the 300b,
if you can direct me to a better schematics, it will be great!!
and for the 6L6 PP , what schematic you suggest?
i have found one schematics on
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babe...ubes/schemas/6l6/pp40w6l6.htm&lp=fr_en&tt=url
(sorry for the long url but i translated from french to english using babelfish)
Thank you
Re: Re: Re: Help me choose a Tube Amp. Project
Konnichiwa,
Hmmm. 100db WHAT?
100db short peaks or 100db sustained average SPL? At 1m Distance or where you are sitting? The Milkfloat Driver calculation you present is mathematically correct, but irelevant to the topic.
At a classic concert with large scale music I measured a highest AVERAGE Sound Level of around 90 - 92db on the climaxes. Knowing the ballistics of the meter used AND the dynamics of live music I expect at least 10db higher peaks. In recorded music I usually find a crest factor (peak to average ratio) of around 10db.
Further, each time you double the distance to the speaker you loose 6db SPL in normal free field conditions. Using a stereo pair of speakers in a room reduces the drop in SPL and boosts SPL, but it remains that with around 3m listening distance you need a 1m/SPL at least 6db higher than that desired at the listening position.
So, let's calculate what is needed for 100db at the listening position with a 10db crestfactor. First, peak power is 3db higher than the RMS power, so we need to reproduce 110db peaks but only 107db "RMS" at the listening position. In addition we need to account for the drop in SPL with Distance, so we add another 6db to give us an SPL requirement per stereo Speaker of 113db/1m at rated amplifier power. Assuming a 20W RMS Amplifier (or 13dbw) we require a Speaker pair with 100db/W/m sensitivity.
A Speaker with 87db/W/m would require an amplifier with 26dbw output power or 400 W RMS, assuming the speaker could handle this kind of power and/or would not alrady heavily compress.
If we relax our requirement to 92db at the listening position with 10db crest factor we still need 99db "RMS" at the listening position and around 105db/1m. This can be achieved by using for example a 95db/W/m Speaker and an amplifier with 10dbw Power (eg. 10W RMS) or an 87db Speaker with with 18dbw Power (eg. 65W RMS).
MOST LIKELY, NO.
Would you feel it a good idea to put a 120W Lightbulb into a fitting rated at 80W? A Speaker with a nominal 6 Ohm Imepdance usually has impedance drops to below 4 Ohm and belongs really onto the 4 ohm Tap.
That said, sometimes the subjective percieved effect is better with a lower impedance speaker on the higher impedance tap. In most cases Valve Amplifiers are tolerant of even short circuited outputs and thus you cannot easily damage things by connecting the speaker with the wrong impedance, but the sound may not be good.
Are you sure that you should attempt to build a Valve Amplifier, with lethal voltages inside from scratch (as opposed to a kit) if you do not know the basics of electronics? I would advise against it. It may be better (and safer to you and your loved ones) to start with a kit.
Given your speakers, how about the DIY HiFiSupply "Ella" Amplifier? This will give 40W in Ultralinear mode and maybe 15 - 20W in triode connection and at a later stage, when you have more experience, you could convert the Amplifer to use 300B's in Push-Pull and hardwire the entire circuit for better performance.
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diy_kits/the_ella.html
If you where to purchase better Speaker (better automatically means higher sensitivity, if you accept that lower distortion and compression mean "better") you might be able to use the "Joplin" 2A3 PP Amp from DIY HiFisupply, I use a modified version of this myself, currently with 45's but I can fit 2A3's and 300B's also.
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diy_kits/the_joplin.html
My Joplin through the times and mods....
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/KYWJoplin/KYW.htm
With my own Joplin Amp I get around 10W RMS if fitted with 2A3's, 12W RMS if fitted with 300B's and around 6W RMS if fitted with 45's. Please also note that I recommended to use the 2A3 PP Amplifier in conjunction with better speakers. A 2A3 PP Amplifier is much cheaper to build than a 300B SE Amp and can sound very good.
I have compared 300B PSE vs. SE (in the same Amp - I literally removed one valve and connected the 4 Ohm Speakers to the 2 Ohm Tap) and various SE vs PP (2A3, 45, 10/VT25, 300B, 845, 813).
Most PP Amplifier literally suck, not sure why. I found that certain direct and transformer coupled PP designs (like the Amity from Lynn Olson) have most of the positive attributes of SE Amp's with non or very little of the negative attributes of PP Amp's.
PSE Amp's can sound okay on some recordings, on others the loss of resolution and transparency is not small. Comparing the Audio Note Japan Baransu (300B SE) to the more expensive Kegon (300B PSE) on suitable speakers (like Avant garde Duo's) illustrates exactly what I mean.
I hope this helps.
Sayonara
Konnichiwa,
Ysabban said:
Hmmm. 100db WHAT?
100db short peaks or 100db sustained average SPL? At 1m Distance or where you are sitting? The Milkfloat Driver calculation you present is mathematically correct, but irelevant to the topic.
At a classic concert with large scale music I measured a highest AVERAGE Sound Level of around 90 - 92db on the climaxes. Knowing the ballistics of the meter used AND the dynamics of live music I expect at least 10db higher peaks. In recorded music I usually find a crest factor (peak to average ratio) of around 10db.
Further, each time you double the distance to the speaker you loose 6db SPL in normal free field conditions. Using a stereo pair of speakers in a room reduces the drop in SPL and boosts SPL, but it remains that with around 3m listening distance you need a 1m/SPL at least 6db higher than that desired at the listening position.
So, let's calculate what is needed for 100db at the listening position with a 10db crestfactor. First, peak power is 3db higher than the RMS power, so we need to reproduce 110db peaks but only 107db "RMS" at the listening position. In addition we need to account for the drop in SPL with Distance, so we add another 6db to give us an SPL requirement per stereo Speaker of 113db/1m at rated amplifier power. Assuming a 20W RMS Amplifier (or 13dbw) we require a Speaker pair with 100db/W/m sensitivity.
A Speaker with 87db/W/m would require an amplifier with 26dbw output power or 400 W RMS, assuming the speaker could handle this kind of power and/or would not alrady heavily compress.
If we relax our requirement to 92db at the listening position with 10db crest factor we still need 99db "RMS" at the listening position and around 105db/1m. This can be achieved by using for example a 95db/W/m Speaker and an amplifier with 10dbw Power (eg. 10W RMS) or an 87db Speaker with with 18dbw Power (eg. 65W RMS).
Ysabban said:
MOST LIKELY, NO.
Ysabban said:
Would you feel it a good idea to put a 120W Lightbulb into a fitting rated at 80W? A Speaker with a nominal 6 Ohm Imepdance usually has impedance drops to below 4 Ohm and belongs really onto the 4 ohm Tap.
That said, sometimes the subjective percieved effect is better with a lower impedance speaker on the higher impedance tap. In most cases Valve Amplifiers are tolerant of even short circuited outputs and thus you cannot easily damage things by connecting the speaker with the wrong impedance, but the sound may not be good.
Are you sure that you should attempt to build a Valve Amplifier, with lethal voltages inside from scratch (as opposed to a kit) if you do not know the basics of electronics? I would advise against it. It may be better (and safer to you and your loved ones) to start with a kit.
Given your speakers, how about the DIY HiFiSupply "Ella" Amplifier? This will give 40W in Ultralinear mode and maybe 15 - 20W in triode connection and at a later stage, when you have more experience, you could convert the Amplifer to use 300B's in Push-Pull and hardwire the entire circuit for better performance.
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diy_kits/the_ella.html
If you where to purchase better Speaker (better automatically means higher sensitivity, if you accept that lower distortion and compression mean "better") you might be able to use the "Joplin" 2A3 PP Amp from DIY HiFisupply, I use a modified version of this myself, currently with 45's but I can fit 2A3's and 300B's also.
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diy_kits/the_joplin.html
My Joplin through the times and mods....
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/KYWJoplin/KYW.htm
Ysabban said:
With my own Joplin Amp I get around 10W RMS if fitted with 2A3's, 12W RMS if fitted with 300B's and around 6W RMS if fitted with 45's. Please also note that I recommended to use the 2A3 PP Amplifier in conjunction with better speakers. A 2A3 PP Amplifier is much cheaper to build than a 300B SE Amp and can sound very good.
arnoldc said:
I have compared 300B PSE vs. SE (in the same Amp - I literally removed one valve and connected the 4 Ohm Speakers to the 2 Ohm Tap) and various SE vs PP (2A3, 45, 10/VT25, 300B, 845, 813).
Most PP Amplifier literally suck, not sure why. I found that certain direct and transformer coupled PP designs (like the Amity from Lynn Olson) have most of the positive attributes of SE Amp's with non or very little of the negative attributes of PP Amp's.
PSE Amp's can sound okay on some recordings, on others the loss of resolution and transparency is not small. Comparing the Audio Note Japan Baransu (300B SE) to the more expensive Kegon (300B PSE) on suitable speakers (like Avant garde Duo's) illustrates exactly what I mean.
I hope this helps.
Sayonara
Hi,
for Rock and 87db speakers, try World Audio Design KiT88 or Kit6550 40W class A , great amplifiers.
WAD don't make KiT88 anymore but you can see (and buy) the 6550 40W class A here http://www.worldaudiodesign.co.uk/
I have build a KiT88, with some modifications, the sound is great for a good price (you can see the schematic and building here http://ptsoundlab.free.fr/sectubes/schemas/kt88/classa40w/monclassakt8840w.htm sorry it's in french).
And the KT88 or 6550 have not the "too much medium and not enough bass" of a 300B, and Class A is the best (for me 😉 )
Best Regards
Pascal.
for Rock and 87db speakers, try World Audio Design KiT88 or Kit6550 40W class A , great amplifiers.
WAD don't make KiT88 anymore but you can see (and buy) the 6550 40W class A here http://www.worldaudiodesign.co.uk/
I have build a KiT88, with some modifications, the sound is great for a good price (you can see the schematic and building here http://ptsoundlab.free.fr/sectubes/schemas/kt88/classa40w/monclassakt8840w.htm sorry it's in french).
And the KT88 or 6550 have not the "too much medium and not enough bass" of a 300B, and Class A is the best (for me 😉 )
Best Regards
Pascal.
Konnichiwa,
EXCUSE ME!? It is precisely the vastly superior Bass that struck me upon converting push pull Amplifiers from Pentodes (EL34/KT88/6550) to 300B. I think you heard Amplifiers incidentally fitted with 300B's that behaved like you describe, but under "all else sufficiently equal" conditions the 300B whups the butt of any KT88 or 6550 BIG TIME.
Sayonara
PTSOUNDLAB said:
EXCUSE ME!? It is precisely the vastly superior Bass that struck me upon converting push pull Amplifiers from Pentodes (EL34/KT88/6550) to 300B. I think you heard Amplifiers incidentally fitted with 300B's that behaved like you describe, but under "all else sufficiently equal" conditions the 300B whups the butt of any KT88 or 6550 BIG TIME.
Sayonara
Hi,
I have indicate that it is my opinion and not a generality 😉
After having building SE amplifiers (845, 300B, 2A3 and SE KT88) with good transformers, for me, the 300B have a fabulous medium, but just a little bit too much in front, 2A3, KT88 or 845 have more linear frenquency range.
I have 2 set of loudspeakers, more than 96db loudspeakers and 91 db loudspeaker, so I have try SE and PP.
For me and for a standard loudspeaker (not high efficiency), 300B are great but a little bit "too much" in medium, 2A3 have not enough power but it's like 300B with more basses, 845 is not cheap, KT88 Electro Harmonix sound great in SE or PP. But it's just my opinion.
"Cordialement" (in French)
Pascal.
I have indicate that it is my opinion and not a generality 😉
After having building SE amplifiers (845, 300B, 2A3 and SE KT88) with good transformers, for me, the 300B have a fabulous medium, but just a little bit too much in front, 2A3, KT88 or 845 have more linear frenquency range.
I have 2 set of loudspeakers, more than 96db loudspeakers and 91 db loudspeaker, so I have try SE and PP.
For me and for a standard loudspeaker (not high efficiency), 300B are great but a little bit "too much" in medium, 2A3 have not enough power but it's like 300B with more basses, 845 is not cheap, KT88 Electro Harmonix sound great in SE or PP. But it's just my opinion.
"Cordialement" (in French)
Pascal.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Help me choose a Tube Amp. Project
thank you
right now i am more confused than before
but at least now i know why
right now i am trying to understand the info you gave me
looking for more web resources
i will not build this amplifier alone by myself, i will use the help of people i know that will guide me
i dont want to start with a simple kit because i don't want to build another amplifier again
i want to invest my money and efforts on one good amplifier
thank you
btw : i am still looking for schematics
i found this site with few amplifiers schematics, and i would be gratfull if you give your oppinion about them
thank you again
and a happy new year!!!
thank you
right now i am more confused than before
but at least now i know why
right now i am trying to understand the info you gave me
looking for more web resources
Kuei Yang Wang said:
i will not build this amplifier alone by myself, i will use the help of people i know that will guide me
i dont want to start with a simple kit because i don't want to build another amplifier again
i want to invest my money and efforts on one good amplifier
thank you
btw : i am still looking for schematics
i found this site with few amplifiers schematics, and i would be gratfull if you give your oppinion about them
thank you again
and a happy new year!!!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help me choose a Tube Amp. Project
Konnichiwa,
In that case sort out your speakers first. Also, note that parts quality in such an amplifier is crucial.
My PERSONAL TAKE on a VERY GOOD Amplifier, suitable for speakers 95db/W/m or higher sensitivity would be:
WE 437A Driver Valve OR Russian 6S45-PE, operated at around 10mA/10k Anode Load
TJ Mesh Anode or WE 300B operated at 350V/60mA/3k5 Load probably Tamura F7002 or F5002 Output Transformer, any decent Gridchoke (Stevens & Billington, Magnequest etc.), Solen/Audyn/M-Cap/Angela Tinfoil coupling Cap 0.22uF/630V around the 300B.
Powersupply should use matching (the Output Transformer in looks) Tamura Mains Transformer Chokes equivalent to PC3004/3007. Rectify the PSU with TJ or WE 274A/B Valve or RCA brown Base 5R4GY, CLCLC Filtering with 4uF/8H/47uF+/8H/47uF+ for the 300B and RCRC filtering for the WE 437A with 6K8/22uF/6k8/47uF from the 300B Anode Supply.
All PSU filtering capacitors should be either MKP Metal Can encased (like "Motor Run" Capacitors) or if you must follow audiophool propaganda Black Gate, where you need to buy the most expensive series to get decent sound.
Resistors I'd recommend Mills Non Inductive Wirewound throughout and for the Chassis Monoblock, wood would be good as main material.
Budget at least around $ 3000 in parts ($ 5000 if you go for all WE valves) for this, to make sure you don't run out of money early.
The resulting Amplifier, if well build, should be among the best in the world, regardless of money etc, assuming that around 8 Watt power suffice.
Sayonara
Konnichiwa,
Ysabban said:
In that case sort out your speakers first. Also, note that parts quality in such an amplifier is crucial.
My PERSONAL TAKE on a VERY GOOD Amplifier, suitable for speakers 95db/W/m or higher sensitivity would be:
WE 437A Driver Valve OR Russian 6S45-PE, operated at around 10mA/10k Anode Load
TJ Mesh Anode or WE 300B operated at 350V/60mA/3k5 Load probably Tamura F7002 or F5002 Output Transformer, any decent Gridchoke (Stevens & Billington, Magnequest etc.), Solen/Audyn/M-Cap/Angela Tinfoil coupling Cap 0.22uF/630V around the 300B.
Powersupply should use matching (the Output Transformer in looks) Tamura Mains Transformer Chokes equivalent to PC3004/3007. Rectify the PSU with TJ or WE 274A/B Valve or RCA brown Base 5R4GY, CLCLC Filtering with 4uF/8H/47uF+/8H/47uF+ for the 300B and RCRC filtering for the WE 437A with 6K8/22uF/6k8/47uF from the 300B Anode Supply.
All PSU filtering capacitors should be either MKP Metal Can encased (like "Motor Run" Capacitors) or if you must follow audiophool propaganda Black Gate, where you need to buy the most expensive series to get decent sound.
Resistors I'd recommend Mills Non Inductive Wirewound throughout and for the Chassis Monoblock, wood would be good as main material.
Budget at least around $ 3000 in parts ($ 5000 if you go for all WE valves) for this, to make sure you don't run out of money early.
The resulting Amplifier, if well build, should be among the best in the world, regardless of money etc, assuming that around 8 Watt power suffice.
Sayonara
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help me choose a Tube Amp. Project
Well , 5000 $
, i have limited my budget to 1500$
i am not looking for the best of the best
i just want to enjoy it, but i dont want to buy 300-4004 kit and them build a better one,
i guess 1500$ is small amount of money
but i am sure i will manage
thank you
Ysabban said:
Well , 5000 $
, i have limited my budget to 1500$ i am not looking for the best of the best
i just want to enjoy it, but i dont want to buy 300-4004 kit and them build a better one,
i guess 1500$ is small amount of money
but i am sure i will manage
thank you
Ysabban, sorry if you are confused by what I say,
but don't forget one or two things when you try to find the "graal":
If you listen Rock like you say, it's certainly better to have a fast amplifier with good deep bass.
With Class A you have a real better medium with a real real good définition
With your 87db loudspeakers, try to find an amplifier with good power.
It is not because an amplifier or components have a high price that it is a high quality. The price don't make the quality. You have very good quality transformers like Audio Note, Lundahll,... for a good price. You can find so, some esoterics transformers made by little stores (we have some in France) and the quality could be better than others.
You can make a great amplifier for 1000 dollars or euros and you can make a great amplifier for 10 000$ or euros. In first, choose the price you can pay 😉
"Cordialement"
Happy new year to all !!!!
Pascal.
but don't forget one or two things when you try to find the "graal":
If you listen Rock like you say, it's certainly better to have a fast amplifier with good deep bass.
With Class A you have a real better medium with a real real good définition
With your 87db loudspeakers, try to find an amplifier with good power.
It is not because an amplifier or components have a high price that it is a high quality. The price don't make the quality. You have very good quality transformers like Audio Note, Lundahll,... for a good price. You can find so, some esoterics transformers made by little stores (we have some in France) and the quality could be better than others.
You can make a great amplifier for 1000 dollars or euros and you can make a great amplifier for 10 000$ or euros. In first, choose the price you can pay 😉
"Cordialement"
Happy new year to all !!!!
Pascal.
Hi,
For USD 1500 I'd opt for a PP 2A3...
I can wake up everybody in a second even with my 88dB/W speakers...
Ne pas si vite...On est que le 31...😉
A propos, "cordialement" en anglais c'est "cordially".
Cheers,
For USD 1500 I'd opt for a PP 2A3...
I can wake up everybody in a second even with my 88dB/W speakers...
Ne pas si vite...On est que le 31...😉
A propos, "cordialement" en anglais c'est "cordially".
Cheers,
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help me choose a Tube Amp. Project
Konnichiwa,
Well, you get kit's on any number of level.
Anyway, assuming you absolutely want to keep your speakers you are definitly in the territory for a Push-Pull Amplifier, probably parallel Push-Pull if it is supposed to be Class A and (maybe) triode Operation. A PPP (Parallel Push Pull) Amplifier using triode wired KT88/6550 should provide between 40 to 60W Output.
I would probably recommend a variation of the Quicksilver Circuit, such as used in the old Qicksilver Monoblocks but scaled up to use multiple parallel Output Valves. Among the PPP Amplifiers I came across the Quicksilver sounded rather good.
You should be able to google the needed info on the net.
One option would be to base your Amplifier on the Velleman Kit's:
http://www.velleman.be/common/product.Aspx?id=19149
http://www.velleman.be/common/product.Aspx?id=337980
They do benefit from improved passive components and/or circuit modifications, but they fairly closely match the Quicksilver Design and offer an excellent "High Power" Amplifier Platform. Or you could build somthing like it from scratch, likely with less ideal fit & finish.
Sayonara
Konnichiwa,
Ysabban said:
Well, you get kit's on any number of level.
Anyway, assuming you absolutely want to keep your speakers you are definitly in the territory for a Push-Pull Amplifier, probably parallel Push-Pull if it is supposed to be Class A and (maybe) triode Operation. A PPP (Parallel Push Pull) Amplifier using triode wired KT88/6550 should provide between 40 to 60W Output.
I would probably recommend a variation of the Quicksilver Circuit, such as used in the old Qicksilver Monoblocks but scaled up to use multiple parallel Output Valves. Among the PPP Amplifiers I came across the Quicksilver sounded rather good.
You should be able to google the needed info on the net.
One option would be to base your Amplifier on the Velleman Kit's:
http://www.velleman.be/common/product.Aspx?id=19149
http://www.velleman.be/common/product.Aspx?id=337980
They do benefit from improved passive components and/or circuit modifications, but they fairly closely match the Quicksilver Design and offer an excellent "High Power" Amplifier Platform. Or you could build somthing like it from scratch, likely with less ideal fit & finish.
Sayonara
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