Hello people! I am planning on changing my speakers for a full range speaker setup.
I listen:
80% of time jazz (hard bop, bee bop, soul jazz, some vocal).
20% 70's, 80's rock, country rock.
My amplifier is a Single Ended KT88 tube amp. Approx. 3W RMS per channel.
I don't listen music very loud.
My current speakers are Monitor Audio Bronze BX2 (2011 series)
Specs says 90 db SPL efficient but can't really assure that.
I also have a Monitor Audio Silver W12 subwoofer.
My living room is like attached drawing.
I like my speakers but I really would like to get better detail and if I can, more volume using more efficient speakers,
so I can turn the amp volume down a little.
I thought about MarkAudio Alpair12p or perhaps a Fostex.
Would you suggest any?
Thanks!
I listen:
80% of time jazz (hard bop, bee bop, soul jazz, some vocal).
20% 70's, 80's rock, country rock.
My amplifier is a Single Ended KT88 tube amp. Approx. 3W RMS per channel.
I don't listen music very loud.
My current speakers are Monitor Audio Bronze BX2 (2011 series)
Specs says 90 db SPL efficient but can't really assure that.
I also have a Monitor Audio Silver W12 subwoofer.
My living room is like attached drawing.
I like my speakers but I really would like to get better detail and if I can, more volume using more efficient speakers,
so I can turn the amp volume down a little.
I thought about MarkAudio Alpair12p or perhaps a Fostex.
Would you suggest any?
Thanks!
Attachments
10.3 or CHN110 would be much better than 12P i think. All are at about 88-89dB sensitive. Fostex claims more, but is overrated on sensivity. I run a CHN110 from a 7.5w amp in an MLTL and hardly go half open (with a logaritmic volume) so probally give 1 or 2 watt to the speaker at it's loudest. But small detailed fullrange drivers will never be very efficient i think. But it's more important to have a flat impendance (without peaks but on the sub frequencies) than a high sensivity. That makes it easier to driver for your amp.
On Fostex drivers i can't suggest, i first don't like those i heared, and i'm not very experienced with them. But know that sensivity is very often overrated on those. Tang Band can be good if you like the house sound of those drivers (not everybodies cup of tea).
If you really want high sensivity, a Fane 12-250TC can be good (and is 98dB sensitive in real life). But it does not have te detail or the finesse of those smaller drivers of Mark Audio.
On Fostex drivers i can't suggest, i first don't like those i heared, and i'm not very experienced with them. But know that sensivity is very often overrated on those. Tang Band can be good if you like the house sound of those drivers (not everybodies cup of tea).
If you really want high sensivity, a Fane 12-250TC can be good (and is 98dB sensitive in real life). But it does not have te detail or the finesse of those smaller drivers of Mark Audio.
Looking to stay with monitors on stands, or would a tower be ok?
As monitors, I made 40-ish liters vented boxes for the W8-1772, but they need at least two passive notches or EQ.
4" speakers in MLTL would be my other choice. The Faitals in a design like the TABAQ would give you more oomphs and clarity. Probably too much on top, so a strong BSC is usually applied.
As monitors, I made 40-ish liters vented boxes for the W8-1772, but they need at least two passive notches or EQ.
4" speakers in MLTL would be my other choice. The Faitals in a design like the TABAQ would give you more oomphs and clarity. Probably too much on top, so a strong BSC is usually applied.
I plan to stay with monitor, yes. For my current room I think its the best. I dont need to use MLTL. I would try to avoid BSC.
I can give you plans for a bookshelf with the 10.3 that i use in my office. It has a decent response to about 45hz in a fairly small package.
Dropbox - Mark-Audio-Alpair-10M-Slot-Ported-Official-CAD-drawings.pdf - Simplify your life
Simpler build (no need for rebates) are found on the site of frugalpile: http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/CGR-MarKen103p-plan-040414.pdf
And on the site of Mark Audio you find more designs that are made by reputable people like Scotmoose (Woden Design) like this one: http://wodendesign.com/downloads/simpleReflex-103-10p-plan-100214.pdf
Attachments
Hi
Here take a look at my set up.
Very near field say 8 ft/small room, no treatment
Sounds great with my KT88 amp.
Music starts at 4:30
DavidLouis VX8+DavidLouisW4 w N/d magnet + W18+ Kasun paper tweeter - YouTube
I have a pair of DL yellow cone 6's up for sale btw.
$250/free ship. Don't like em, just return. Paid $471
I have a video of the DL yellow 6 on my channel.
Here take a look at my set up.
Very near field say 8 ft/small room, no treatment
Sounds great with my KT88 amp.
Music starts at 4:30
DavidLouis VX8+DavidLouisW4 w N/d magnet + W18+ Kasun paper tweeter - YouTube
I have a pair of DL yellow cone 6's up for sale btw.
$250/free ship. Don't like em, just return. Paid $471
I have a video of the DL yellow 6 on my channel.
I don’t know any driver that would not benefit from some kind of notch or bsc.
There are, but they are rare. The CHN110 is one like that, certainly in my MLTL. But mostly i agree on notch filters, not always on BSC as you can fix that in the crossover for multiway and most Mark Audio drivers have it build in the response for the typical builds they are used for. But sometimes it's needed.
I can standby waxx’s suggestion but it is worth noting that the metal cone MAs have a different voicing than the paper cones. I would suggest A10p as a better alternate to A12p but with simialr voicing.
The Fostex are typically not quite as sensitive as specified and it is the FFxx5wk drivers are best suited to your needs,
But the first thing i ntoiced was the small distance between couch and speakers. This often indicates a smaller driver.
A standmount might be better able to be placed, but any floorstanders take up no greater footprint, can typically stretch the bottom more and you don’t need stands.
I would consider A7ms of P7HD.
But i will say taht the CHN110 probably represents most bang for the buck. Needs a larger enclosure thou than the A10s or A11.
dave
But
The Fostex are typically not quite as sensitive as specified and it is the FFxx5wk drivers are best suited to your needs,
But the first thing i ntoiced was the small distance between couch and speakers. This often indicates a smaller driver.
A standmount might be better able to be placed, but any floorstanders take up no greater footprint, can typically stretch the bottom more and you don’t need stands.
I would consider A7ms of P7HD.
But i will say taht the CHN110 probably represents most bang for the buck. Needs a larger enclosure thou than the A10s or A11.
dave
But
I rarely if ever have had to resort to these band-aids and that is over hundreds of builds. But as to BSC i get the feeling many prefer an exagerated bass.
dave
Given you are going to be dealing with a fairly clsoe diatance to the back wll, an appropriate design would give a good marriage between room & speaker.
Someyhing like Poplar (A10.3/A10p) and Aspen (P11) so far, hug the wall floorstanders that are meant to integrate with the wall/room.
The series ill epand to other drivers as requests come in. I can esily see 11ms/CHN110/CHR90/120 versions.
dave
Thanks Dave for your suggestions.
But now I have more inquires since you mentioned a bunch of models.
What would you suggest for me, metal cone vs paper cone?
Remember my amp has little power. Most of these are not that sensitive.
Forgot to mention my amp is 8ohm output.
I plan to move to a bigger place someday.. so I would like 6.5" +
Mountstanding would be my choice for the design cause its easier for someone like me who dont have a lot of experience working with wood.
But now I have more inquires since you mentioned a bunch of models.
What would you suggest for me, metal cone vs paper cone?
Remember my amp has little power. Most of these are not that sensitive.
Forgot to mention my amp is 8ohm output.
I plan to move to a bigger place someday.. so I would like 6.5" +
Mountstanding would be my choice for the design cause its easier for someone like me who dont have a lot of experience working with wood.
I cannot judge your particular preferences, all i can say both are good. Six of one, half dozen of the other.
A10.3 vrs A10p, A6.2p vrs A6.2m. All good, paper perhaps best described as a slightly more romantic character, with what i call a vintage top-end, the metal perhaps more accurate with both more top end and the potential for some hiFrequency ringing, some people finding it objectionable enuff to them to add notch filters. How annoying this is will be slightly different dtiver to driver and be affected by the amplifier used.
I do live how well the paper cones and small single ended amps work together.
Do note that in the case of our early exposure to the A10.3 and A10p we tended to prefer the paper, but after 500-1000 hours the A10.3 started to show its full potential and it became too close to call, but while having simialr basic characteristic they offer different flavours, which one for you only you can decide.
I will say that i sold about 3 x as many A10PeN as A10.3PeN and most of those A10pwent to people with amplifiers simialr to yours.
The CHN-110 seems to walk a line between the 2.
dave
A10.3 vrs A10p, A6.2p vrs A6.2m. All good, paper perhaps best described as a slightly more romantic character, with what i call a vintage top-end, the metal perhaps more accurate with both more top end and the potential for some hiFrequency ringing, some people finding it objectionable enuff to them to add notch filters. How annoying this is will be slightly different dtiver to driver and be affected by the amplifier used.
I do live how well the paper cones and small single ended amps work together.
Do note that in the case of our early exposure to the A10.3 and A10p we tended to prefer the paper, but after 500-1000 hours the A10.3 started to show its full potential and it became too close to call, but while having simialr basic characteristic they offer different flavours, which one for you only you can decide.
I will say that i sold about 3 x as many A10PeN as A10.3PeN and most of those A10pwent to people with amplifiers simialr to yours.
The CHN-110 seems to walk a line between the 2.
dave
Seeing that you have a subwoofer already, I think what would work well is a high sensitivity 3" or 4" in a few liter sealed cabinet to match your 3W amp. The sealed cabinet cut down excursion at low frequencies. One suggestion could be Faitalpro 3Fe22. Will work well in a 1 or 2 liter box. Adding a capacitor in series would cut down the low end bass even more. They will cross at about 100Hz.
Alternatively I would also consider a 2 way minidsp as your DAC and you can have lots of fun tweaking the frequency response to your need.
Oon
Alternatively I would also consider a 2 way minidsp as your DAC and you can have lots of fun tweaking the frequency response to your need.
Oon
This was for a suggestion of a full range as the OP stated, placed in the full range section of the forum. Most full range drivers have a rising response.
So, BSC is needed. And I'm not a bass head. I do hate a mid-centric response though, that hurts my ears. But that's just me. Others might think that it sounds wonderful.