If he is me, it's worked before, on the amp side I compared $2000 class d to $200 class d and found a win with the FFAxxxx modulesYeah, I can't believe he's comparing that JL to a $99 speaker. I'll take 14 MM1540's over that one 12.
Can i=we have a price champ for sub? We'll find out soon enough
With great difficulty, did you happen to notice the mounting? As for the sound, they are not thrown into empty boxes to just pound away. I don't like sealed systems personally but colleagues are running the 12 sealed. Mine is in a 35L ported and has a flatter response where it matters but the driver has so much headroom that sticking it in just enough box to fit the driver is works well......note the mention of Eq at will together with the driver. It will still beat up PA 15s leaving HR scratching its head as to the outputhow can you put that 12 jl audio driver in such a small box
The recommendations of pushing on the moving assembly to break in the driver is seen with raised eyebrows. Its designed to be activated by the electric motor system. Pushig is ineffective, the force needed to apply significant deflection by hands risk damage
Patient fella, they marked for investigation in great detail. Booger, did you somehow get the impression that I am the first and only one with this driver?
So....
Randy basinga said...
"You haven't tried everything until you have tried the 12W7 or 13W7"
On ported boxes what are the Liters we need to install the above drivers.
And what power you need to feed them, what DSP filters.
I'm interested even if that is a 2yr savings project.
If the sound quality is that good , I think I can make the sacrifice and plush my piggy bank.
Randy basinga said...
"You haven't tried everything until you have tried the 12W7 or 13W7"
On ported boxes what are the Liters we need to install the above drivers.
And what power you need to feed them, what DSP filters.
I'm interested even if that is a 2yr savings project.
If the sound quality is that good , I think I can make the sacrifice and plush my piggy bank.
I wouldn't go for another W7 unless I had a lot of pocket money but if I did, I would steer away from the ported as well in favour of taking the time to tune a nicer TL. I don't have experience with the 13, but that's the one in the Gotham. My 12 is in 35L and the port is a slot only 16mm tall but quite long into the box from the side. I haven't taken it apart. Colleagues have in boxes from 35L to 50 all at 33Hz. Whatever the max 33Hz box the installer could fit in the cars, and he did a lot of these over 17yrs from one location. Most were sealed 30L though and Eq'ed slightly to fit the car. All the boxes carry a full loose fill
Instead of jumping at the JL, try starting at the DS18 ZXI10.4D. As far as I know this one was already remeasured and reloaded on the datasheet. Its also models way better then even the JL. I am in the difficult position of not being able to get the 10" as they are not available here but thats the driver I would be all over for my desired smaller boxes.
manufacturing costs are a lot lower than 25yrs ago, JL needs to lower prices or lose fans
Instead of jumping at the JL, try starting at the DS18 ZXI10.4D. As far as I know this one was already remeasured and reloaded on the datasheet. Its also models way better then even the JL. I am in the difficult position of not being able to get the 10" as they are not available here but thats the driver I would be all over for my desired smaller boxes.
manufacturing costs are a lot lower than 25yrs ago, JL needs to lower prices or lose fans
I have developed a prototype 15" that is 4.6" mounting depth, qts of .27, and 16mm of one way xmax @ 70% BL via klippel lsi. Measured qtc with it in a 35L sealed box was .640 with a Fb of 42hz. Could load it up with some mass and get near 40hz Fb and a .7 qtc in a ~30L sealed box. But the problem with a 15" subwoofer in this size box is that it will take 1000+ watts just for it to start making bass. In modeling, it would have needed almost 2000 watts just to get the 16mm excursion. You could build a conventional subwoofer with these specs to make good bass in a 30L enclosure, it will just take a couple thousand watts to get it to move.
And the next step is to model in an end dampened narrow port of about 400mm 60cm2 and add a 28mm radial flare to one end and 160mm radial flare to the other. Change the middle 60cm2 segment length until you get your target Fb. The response shape should get a massive lift and the end dampened port speed should be in the mid-teens. Such were my experiments to lift the bass in the small box with dismal sealed performance
It's actually a hifi sub that will be on display at cedia 😉 Are you going this year?That's basically the typical car audio driver. You designed an inefficient driver that plays low in a small enclosure...Hofmann's Iron Law wins again.
And there is no 15" sub out there currently with that low of a qts that has that much excursion with that shallow of a depth and enough moving mass to play in tiny sealed airsaces. That's why it was created in the first place.
But the point was actually that what OP wants is entirely doable and I have experience with it, it's possible to for a 15" sub to work well in 30L of airspace, you just need a ton of power to get output from them.
Which a very practical way to go now. Also, there is a whole class of car subs that probably offer higher fidelity than home hi-fiyou just need a ton of power to get output from them.
It's actually a hifi sub that will be on display at cedia 😉 Are you going this year?
Uh, would I be welcomed???
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