Hello,
I have a resistor out of Mastering Labs crossover that measures 3.4R. The one in the other crossover measures 3.6R, but has no identifying marks. According to the schematic I have, it is 3.3R. I'm going to put Brown Devils in so thy all match. The issue I have is that my crossover is slightly different then the schematic. I have a 5 uF cap where the schematic is 5.5 uF and there is another 3.3R resistor stated where I have none. These crossovers haven't been monkeyed with until this monkey got them. Thanks for reading
I have a resistor out of Mastering Labs crossover that measures 3.4R. The one in the other crossover measures 3.6R, but has no identifying marks. According to the schematic I have, it is 3.3R. I'm going to put Brown Devils in so thy all match. The issue I have is that my crossover is slightly different then the schematic. I have a 5 uF cap where the schematic is 5.5 uF and there is another 3.3R resistor stated where I have none. These crossovers haven't been monkeyed with until this monkey got them. Thanks for reading
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Some speaker companies tweak each crossover for the exact set of drivers.
Keep the measured values the same, unless the old part seems defective or out of tolerance.
The pot is adjusted for the proper acoustical level, which you may not be able to do.
Keep the measured values the same, unless the old part seems defective or out of tolerance.
The pot is adjusted for the proper acoustical level, which you may not be able to do.
I thought the tube guys might recognize this old resistor.
The drivers have been separated from these. This is a new build. Do you think I should put the 3.3R in before the pot that it was built without? I've seen pictures with it and without it. I assume they left it out for a reason. Mine are like the first picture.
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Depends on your tweeter, and the overall sound balance you want to achieve, together with personal taste and room acoustics.
Place the 3.3R in series if you feel the tweeter is still too hot even with the rheostat set at 8 ohms.
I see. 3 of the pots are actually 10R and one is 8R. It is actually written on them and measures as well. I suppose they used the 10R pot and eliminated the 3.3R, but actually didn't have or need a 10R for the one? Probably a change in manufacturing to save a buck?
Here are a few pics of mine taken a few years ago, I will be taking them apart again this winter to upgrade caps and overall checkout. What driver/drivers are you planning to use? Keep in mind these crossovers (schematic as shown) were made for 16 ohm drivers (from what I have researched in the past few years). Mine are original strapped to the back of my Big Reds with Altec 604-16LN drivers.
Cheers
Cheers
Mine are 5.0uF as well. A friend of mine is putting together a care package for me for these, probably a mix of Teflon, P Carbonate and Propylene. You should check out Lansing Heritage or Hostboard, lots of Altec info there.
HostBoard Altec users
Lansing Heritage
cheers
HostBoard Altec users
Lansing Heritage
cheers
I forgot my username and password for Lansing Heritage and I'm having difficulty retrieving it. I've been on the Hostboard forever, just don't post there often. I'm ckp there. I have an active post there now. There is a fellow on Hifihaven that states he put Jensen foil oil caps in his and it made a huge difference. Those are probably too rich for my blood, though.