I have lost the master control know from a Behringer Flow 8 mixer. Behringer has no support in Australia (they will simply toss and replace if under warranty - which this is not), and I cannot get any overseas repairer to procure th part for me either. So I'd like to find something "that will work" need not be pretty but googling for knobs is unhelpful and I don't know what to look for. So any help identifying a part that might work here or even a better search term would be much appreciated. See pics. And TIA.
It's a potentiometer or an optical encoder. Would need a service manual or schematic to know for sure. I think optical encoder. Something like this:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11L-4120K-S0020/4699173
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11L-4120K-S0020/4699173
Yeah. Encoder. Finding a replacement could be a challenge simply because there are thousands of different ones. It may be easier to email Behringer or a service centre for the part number. The part may also have its number printed on it. If you can get the assembly out you may be able to read it directly on the encoder body.
Tom
Tom
Try to check on Alibaba.com,but I think you might need to provide more infomation to get a replacement one.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...offerlist.normal_offer.d_image.fa8d246dote354
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...offerlist.normal_offer.d_image.fa8d246dote354
Hey folks. It still works, the knob is just missing. Not sure what the correct knob even looks like from underneath. I don't need to replace the actual item, just insert a knob of some kind that should work. So any suitable knob? One of the comments above mentions there is a D shaped "socket". The manufacturer tells me
The part number is G58-00002-16864 = FJ20-00785-000 which reveals nothing via google.
:/
The part number is G58-00002-16864 = FJ20-00785-000 which reveals nothing via google.
:/
Hi Gerard,
How does the knob attach to your main board?
The image of the main board I posted above has a d-shaft protruding from the encoder, but from your photo I can't work out if you have plastic remnants of the knob still in your encoder and whether your knob would need a male or female interface.
It appeared that they used a metal d-shaft but yours seems to be plastic.
How does the knob attach to your main board?
The image of the main board I posted above has a d-shaft protruding from the encoder, but from your photo I can't work out if you have plastic remnants of the knob still in your encoder and whether your knob would need a male or female interface.
It appeared that they used a metal d-shaft but yours seems to be plastic.
This section seems to be missing (perhaps still attached to the knob):
You should be able to just use a standard rotary encoder knob from Ali, or modelling and 3d printing one would be trivial, but I suspect you are missing the shaft from your encoder, which would require a little more work to resolve.
You should be able to just use a standard rotary encoder knob from Ali, or modelling and 3d printing one would be trivial, but I suspect you are missing the shaft from your encoder, which would require a little more work to resolve.
Perhaps it is easier to replace the rotary encoder if the manufacturer can provide part number and specification.
Looks like the bushing/shaft assembly was a press fit, and it came loose after a lot of use.
You do not just need a knob, this is a sub assembly not available except as part of an encoder.
The knob just fits on the shaft with a set screw or clip.
Find an encoder that looks similar, and see if you can pull off the bushing, and epoxy it on yours.
It would help a lot to know the encoder mfr, but their series could be obsolete.
You do not just need a knob, this is a sub assembly not available except as part of an encoder.
The knob just fits on the shaft with a set screw or clip.
Find an encoder that looks similar, and see if you can pull off the bushing, and epoxy it on yours.
It would help a lot to know the encoder mfr, but their series could be obsolete.
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I don't know either - it doesn't seem obvious and I have not got the other part. I think as someone else mentioned it was press fitted originally and has been knocked out. The device works and if I use a screwdriver to move the "D" then that also works, so as other suggest - a knob, some filing and glue might be my option.