PEERLESS / VIFA BC25TG15
DAYTON DC160
I have these two drivers and would like to know the best crossover point based on directivity? Or if anyone had a polar plot for the tweeter and off axis measurements on the woofer so I can decide for myself? This would be ideal but I am open for recommendations.
I will be using this speaker with DSP so I am not too fussed about other variables and it will be a cheap little speaker so if I could get a crossover point that is decent enough based on a harmonous directivity that would be greatly appreciated.
DAYTON DC160
I have these two drivers and would like to know the best crossover point based on directivity? Or if anyone had a polar plot for the tweeter and off axis measurements on the woofer so I can decide for myself? This would be ideal but I am open for recommendations.
I will be using this speaker with DSP so I am not too fussed about other variables and it will be a cheap little speaker so if I could get a crossover point that is decent enough based on a harmonous directivity that would be greatly appreciated.
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Being a 1" dome, you'll likely be crossing the BC25 down where it's radiating wide. This means crossing the DC160 anywhere below a certain point, which is going to be approximately in the 2kHz region.
Okay so the Classic 2 design has it at around 2200hz if I am not mistaken, and that sounds about right according to Allen and GM?
Appreciate the replies.
Appreciate the replies.
Paul Carmody (the designer) wrote: "The crossover for this speaker is what I'd like to call a "flying squirrel." What I mean is that both drivers just barely reach into one another's frequency spectrum, so the crossover between the two is almost a stunt-like flying leap. With a lot of coaxing on my part, the end result comes across sounding pretty seamless, and very natural, if I may say so."
The crossover point is a key here, but keys are also the acoustical slopes, which you have to recreate from the passive crossover and the drivers impedance. I don't think you have much room to improve the design, and more possibilities to make it worse. I would just buy the crossover components and build the passive Classix 2 design.
Ralf
The crossover point is a key here, but keys are also the acoustical slopes, which you have to recreate from the passive crossover and the drivers impedance. I don't think you have much room to improve the design, and more possibilities to make it worse. I would just buy the crossover components and build the passive Classix 2 design.
Ralf
A general recommendation with a goal of smooth DI characteristics would be to avoid crossover frequency where the tweeter radiates wide (low DI) and the woofer does not (higher DI). You'll likely get a bump on the power response characteristic in the midrange ("S-curve") as PR(f) = |onaxisSpl(f)| - DI(f)).
It may happen that aiming smooth directivity, for given set of drivers no good crossover frequency can be found. Then there is still an option of increasing directivity of the tweeter applying a waveguide adapter (eg Monacor or Visaton). Anyway, it's hard to give specific advice without off-axis measurements.
You're welcome!
Based on the driver's measured plots I chose 2 kHz as the best overall WRT pattern tightness vs the desire to keep the XO slope low as practical, but Allen had already posted, so just agreed since he's way more XO design centric than me, but if there's a proven design for 2.2 kHz, then considering this is with actual products, it seems a 'no brainer' to me since it proves the factory's docs are plenty close enough for the casual DIYer.
Okay great so 2khz seems the best.
I am considering just making the original crossover, I can and it probably is the best way around it. The thing is I got a active crossover and Audiolense DSP which should give me better or at least just as good results than the original crossover but the downside is I can't watch television without a delay to video.
The idea is quick and easy way for a non so ideal DIY speaker, as I already got two top notch speakers hence the quick and easy.
I am considering just making the original crossover, I can and it probably is the best way around it. The thing is I got a active crossover and Audiolense DSP which should give me better or at least just as good results than the original crossover but the downside is I can't watch television without a delay to video.
The idea is quick and easy way for a non so ideal DIY speaker, as I already got two top notch speakers hence the quick and easy.