These Monacor woofers below are all good candidates for crossing to a 1.4CD at about 700-800hz. For both 12inchers there's a 500hz dip that worries me because of my intended crossover point. Might they work a little higher in cross? Would hope if the 12 can work...smaller cabinet. The 15 does look like the right deal though. Problem overall is they all have limited x.ax, which bothers a bit because I want to take a sealed/smaller volume and do an LT and eq to achieve lower bass.
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The 15" specs require a much smaller cab than the high Qts 12", so this seems a 'no brainer' choice both in size and performance.
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My candidate would be a different brand, the Faital 12FE330, they look on specs a lot bettrer for that purpose than those Monacors and are not that expensive.
That's 94.5 dB. Trying to cross to a 1.4CDMy candidate would be a different brand, the Faital 12FE330, they look on specs a lot bettrer for that purpose than those Monacors and are not that expensive.
If a 12" find a good condition, light used JBL 2206H, consistent and well proven.
Cheaper then a new Monacor.
Easy to use and cross over, smooth and well behaved response. More xmax, enough power handling.
For the money ca 150$ each, used they can hardly be beat for the price.
Beyma 12P80FEV2 is a well proven and high quality option too. takes some EQ well.
Eighteensound 12W750 delivers good performance for the money.
I'd choose either before the Monacors.
Cheaper then a new Monacor.
Easy to use and cross over, smooth and well behaved response. More xmax, enough power handling.
For the money ca 150$ each, used they can hardly be beat for the price.
Beyma 12P80FEV2 is a well proven and high quality option too. takes some EQ well.
Eighteensound 12W750 delivers good performance for the money.
I'd choose either before the Monacors.
You will never find woofer that meet the sensivity of a CD, so you need to tamper the CD anyway with an L-pad to meet them. Those Monacors you mention won't meet that sensivity neighter. Even that SP15A is only 97dB in reality (Monacors specs are not very accurate). And the limited xmax make it unusable to go sealed and eq the bass you want. You won't get it louder than the xmax limits it.That's 94.5 dB. Trying to cross to a 1.4CD
And if you want to do that, you will need dsp or at least an active analog crossover for that eq, so sensitivy does not matter anymore, You can't boost the bass with a passive one, you can only cut, so you loose that sensivity anyway. You're better of with a lower sensivity and more basss capacity than reverse for this.
Also, those Monacors start to resonate and beam fairly early in the spectrum, i would not use the SP15A above 500Hz for that. The drivers that Arez mentioned are all way better in that, but don't go that low as the Faital. So chooise what you need, they are a good option with a wanted FS arround 50Hz or higher. You can also check the Beyma 12BR70 and the Faital 15BR400 (also higher fs). Both are often used for this kind of setups, even with passive crossovers. The Faital 15BR400 is in the sensivity range of the SP15A, but a lot better in response low and high.
Do not use the Monacor frequency response for getting any information of the speaker. They are decades old and pure fantasy.
Like Visaton, Monacor is overpriced today. Sorry to say that, but there is a cheaper alternative to any driver they offer.
Like Visaton, Monacor is overpriced today. Sorry to say that, but there is a cheaper alternative to any driver they offer.
You can do the filters passive, but if you need active eq to boost the bass, you need it active. But the crossover filters itself can be done passive, it's just when you use active already, you better also do the crossover active in most cases.Thanks. I thought an LT/HP circuit could be passively done, am I wrong?
But mating a driver with a 15-20 dB higher tweeter passive is also possible, with resistors (often parallel to match power) or with a dedicated Lpad control. A CD tweeter will hardly see over 20w in reality, even in high power applications, so it's doable with 10 or 20w resistors to tame a tweeter. It's not ideal in these times with exellent dsp's availeble, but that is how it was done often for decades before dsp. And if you only plan to use it with low power amplifiers (like tube amps) single 10w resistors will be more than enough to make an L-pad for the tweeter.
So if you want it passive, the box itself must make the bass you want, and with high sensitive woofers, that are big, this means a big cabinet. Or you need to have an eq before the amp to do that (like tone controls on the preamp section).
@Zeadlloyd
I am curious to know how many watts of power you have (?)
Because actively EQing bass uses up lots of power.
If you're running at rather low power, you're best finding the right driver & box volume/size.
I am curious to know how many watts of power you have (?)
Because actively EQing bass uses up lots of power.
If you're running at rather low power, you're best finding the right driver & box volume/size.
PA drivers are not designed to have a ruler-flat frequency response like hifi types and will always require complex EQ, which is usually built-in when using electronic crossovers and LMS (loudspeaker Management Systems) as is normally the case. Very few PA speakers have any passive crossovers. The levels are easily matched as each driver has its own separate amplifier - 4 channels for a 2-way stereo pair of speakers.Thanks. I thought an LT/HP circuit could be passively done, am I wrong?
I have been advised a good used crown will do the job. One with active eq. Any reco.mendation?@Zeadlloyd
I am curious to know how many watts of power you have (?)
Because actively EQing bass uses up lots of power.
If you're running at rather low power, you're best finding the right driver & box volume/size.
IME Crowns are indeed fine amps since at least '64, but so far, don't see how much dB gain (boost) you're planning on, so no clue how many watts you need and be sure to at least double it and personally would quadruple it to make sure it stays well within its thermal power rating: W = 10^(dB/10)
Best candidate.
Significant xmax. . Wanna do it in a 1.25cft, sealed and since it's domestic use, I wanna use a LT with some eq from the Crown, and a hp somewhere about 45, and an f3 of 50. Can it be done?can I take it lower in 1.5 sealed?
Significant xmax. . Wanna do it in a 1.25cft, sealed and since it's domestic use, I wanna use a LT with some eq from the Crown, and a hp somewhere about 45, and an f3 of 50. Can it be done?can I take it lower in 1.5 sealed?
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I am not foreign to the physics. I'm just saying that the scales can be skewed sometimes. How far can it be skewed?
Yes, that is true, but you try to push it to far. There is a phisical ilmit to how loud and low you can in a small space and that 1.25cu is to small. I can recommend a 10" woofer for it (Faital 10FE330) but it won't have the spl capacities and xmax that you want. But that is the closest i can get to what you want.
A bigger cabinet (double size) would make it a lot easier. then 12" can fit sealed and have space for eq on decent sensivity. But not in 1.25cu. That driver that you posted spec of won't fit certainly, you need a higher q and a lower vas for that.
A bigger cabinet (double size) would make it a lot easier. then 12" can fit sealed and have space for eq on decent sensivity. But not in 1.25cu. That driver that you posted spec of won't fit certainly, you need a higher q and a lower vas for that.
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