The audio comes in where you have written Speaker and comes out where you have written Audio.
These passive circuits need to be fed from a low impedance source like a preamp and should feed into a high impedance. Some of your values are going to be wrong such as the pF caps.
Here is design for one.
These passive circuits need to be fed from a low impedance source like a preamp and should feed into a high impedance. Some of your values are going to be wrong such as the pF caps.
Here is design for one.
Attachments
Yeah Now I Think I Need To Do Some
Corrections In My Circuit. You Also
Show Me Good Design Of This Type Of
Circuit. But One Thing I Need To Know That
Its Output Can Be Directly Connected With
Speakers Wires Which Is the OutPut of Amplifier.
Thank You Sir.
Corrections In My Circuit. You Also
Show Me Good Design Of This Type Of
Circuit. But One Thing I Need To Know That
Its Output Can Be Directly Connected With
Speakers Wires Which Is the OutPut of Amplifier.
Thank You Sir.
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This is a passive tone control line level circuit. It only works when connected to a preamplifier output,
not to a power amplifier (speaker) output.
Only a passive loudspeaker crossover circuit can be directly connected to a power amplifier output.
not to a power amplifier (speaker) output.
Only a passive loudspeaker crossover circuit can be directly connected to a power amplifier output.
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Sir But When I Opened My Amplifier
The Input Of This Circuit Was From
The OutPut Of Active Tone Controller
Circuit But Output Of Passive Tone
Controller Circuit Was Directly
Connected With Speakers Wires Inside
Amplifier..
The Input Of This Circuit Was From
The OutPut Of Active Tone Controller
Circuit But Output Of Passive Tone
Controller Circuit Was Directly
Connected With Speakers Wires Inside
Amplifier..
That looks like tone controls in the NFB of the power amplifier. Not any information about calculating that tone controls on the net.
Japanese commercial amps often use that type of tone controls, but nobody (me either) don't know how to calculate it.
Maybe it is the best to copy the whole amplifier in DIY.
Japanese commercial amps often use that type of tone controls, but nobody (me either) don't know how to calculate it.
Maybe it is the best to copy the whole amplifier in DIY.
Mooly, Rayma, Galu: you need a crash course in Third World Country Electronics 😛
As soon as I saw Zohaib´s schematic I recognized it 😎
Didn´t the very low impedance values raise an eyebrow? 😕
That tone control is designed to be driven fom a speaker or earphone out, including Smartphone out, portable MP3 or CD players, even a Walkman or boombox or portable TV, go figure.
The product is typically known as a "Power Booster", or "Amplified speaker", and is VERY popular here in Argentina, Brazil, rest of Latin America, probably also in Pakistan 😎
Nothing like you probably see on an everyday basis, typical architecture is: Speaker/Phone level *input* > passive tone control > chipamp > cheap speaker complement.
This example , the locally VERY popular "Kioto" brand (hinting at Japanese origin) is the smallest/oldest they make: 30W RMS from a TDA2050, a cheap 10" speaker, even cheaper 4" cone speaker.
Crossover (a lonely 10uF NP electrolytic) is mounted on main amp PCB, as well as the basic power supply, fed from a small 26/27 VAC 1A transformer.
Enlarge picture to max. and read parts values.
IF you want, you can drawn the schematic (it will take all of 10-15 minutes) 😉
That said, I am not dissing them at all, Kioto sells 10-20X as much as I do and successfully stands Chinese competition; his powered speakers are *everywhere* and are sold a Train Stations, Bus terminals and even on weekend street fairs, go figure.
His Business model is flawless.
Brazilian ones are impressive (in their class) and made in City block sized Factories, go figure.
More modern versions:
Dear Zohaib: IF you have a similar amp, do not waste time/efforts on it, it´s already at the limit of what it can give.
As soon as I saw Zohaib´s schematic I recognized it 😎
Didn´t the very low impedance values raise an eyebrow? 😕
That tone control is designed to be driven fom a speaker or earphone out, including Smartphone out, portable MP3 or CD players, even a Walkman or boombox or portable TV, go figure.
The product is typically known as a "Power Booster", or "Amplified speaker", and is VERY popular here in Argentina, Brazil, rest of Latin America, probably also in Pakistan 😎
Nothing like you probably see on an everyday basis, typical architecture is: Speaker/Phone level *input* > passive tone control > chipamp > cheap speaker complement.
This example , the locally VERY popular "Kioto" brand (hinting at Japanese origin) is the smallest/oldest they make: 30W RMS from a TDA2050, a cheap 10" speaker, even cheaper 4" cone speaker.
Crossover (a lonely 10uF NP electrolytic) is mounted on main amp PCB, as well as the basic power supply, fed from a small 26/27 VAC 1A transformer.
Enlarge picture to max. and read parts values.
IF you want, you can drawn the schematic (it will take all of 10-15 minutes) 😉
That said, I am not dissing them at all, Kioto sells 10-20X as much as I do and successfully stands Chinese competition; his powered speakers are *everywhere* and are sold a Train Stations, Bus terminals and even on weekend street fairs, go figure.
His Business model is flawless.
Brazilian ones are impressive (in their class) and made in City block sized Factories, go figure.
More modern versions:
Dear Zohaib: IF you have a similar amp, do not waste time/efforts on it, it´s already at the limit of what it can give.
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Reminds me of the Ridgeway QS-3315BR I obtained when cleaning up an abandoned rental property. Though it only claims 40WRMS.
I bet 6000W PMPO and 40W RMS are about the same 😉
After all 200W PMPO are claimed from PC speakers fed from 5V rails, actually containing 3 TO92 transistors, so ....
After all 200W PMPO are claimed from PC speakers fed from 5V rails, actually containing 3 TO92 transistors, so ....
It is called a party speaker here.
Suitcase trolley type thing, you can wheel it around, feed the sound over Bluetooth, or stick a memory card / flash drive.
Remote controlled too...the module for this is $ 1.20 wholesale.
Like JM said, you need a crash course in these, the way we do things here is, well, different...
Prices, too...the 2050 board, single channel, is about $1.20, the tone board about that if bought separately.
Add the transformer, $3, and you are ready to fit in a housing.
I would not pay much more than $35 for the thing, single channel.
LG had them in their range, $100 or more.
Suitcase trolley type thing, you can wheel it around, feed the sound over Bluetooth, or stick a memory card / flash drive.
Remote controlled too...the module for this is $ 1.20 wholesale.
Like JM said, you need a crash course in these, the way we do things here is, well, different...
Prices, too...the 2050 board, single channel, is about $1.20, the tone board about that if bought separately.
Add the transformer, $3, and you are ready to fit in a housing.
I would not pay much more than $35 for the thing, single channel.
LG had them in their range, $100 or more.
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2 channel 4440 board, with bass treble and 7805 for the module, runs on 12V, $4 and up.
Pots and FM module etc. are extra.
Pots and FM module etc. are extra.
A kid with a cell phone can become the DJ using an app...no consoles, mixer, wires, nothing!
Power cords, of course, will be needed.
Just sends music over Bluetooth from storage on phone.
Like I said, different.
Power cords, of course, will be needed.
Just sends music over Bluetooth from storage on phone.
Like I said, different.
Thanks Every One For Giving Me Explanation
Of This Type Of Circuit And Special Thanks
To JMFahey Because He Guided Me Very Good
About This Circuit. I Have Already Wasted My Too
Much Time On it. But Now My Concepts Are Clear
Thank You So Much All Of You Once Again
Of This Type Of Circuit And Special Thanks
To JMFahey Because He Guided Me Very Good
About This Circuit. I Have Already Wasted My Too
Much Time On it. But Now My Concepts Are Clear
Thank You So Much All Of You Once Again
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Hmmm... honestly... well not really they didn't 🙂 I can see the output will be low given the values but I was looking more at the topology. Passive controls are very lossy.
You've obviously seen these before and so see it in a totally different way to us 😉
A 'traditional' opamp based preamp would deliver far more signal level than an earphone output. Passive controls are lossy. Many an opamp would easily drive that stage at the levels involved.
So a speaker/earphone feed or traditional opamp makes no difference, it is an easy load as drawn (at low signal levels anyway). The stage works just the same whichever source you feed it from.
On Total Peak RMS Music Power outputs 😀 Sharp were the ones I remember. Full of stickers plastered all over them saying 200 watts total peak music power or whatever and the thing would run of 6 C cells or something similar. Their car audio was the same.
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